youngstown.bulldog80

What is the suggested torque spec for the both 7/8" and 1" trunnion stand-to-frame bolts (square or trapezoidal)? In fact, is there a link to an online site that would show all the torque specs for everything on the bogie/suspension - mainly for SS 38 44 and 50?

12 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

I don't know what Mack used, and I sure it varied depending on how the truck was spec'd.

Size and shape of the wedges has an effect on how they seat on the spoke.

Rockwell is the same as others when it comes to spokes. Often the hubs were made by Gunite or Webb not the axle or brake mfg.

 4" is common also. I just meant that with that measurement over 6" a 4 1/4" spacer is a good place to start when you are trying to determine what is needed. It is the middle ground of what is common, if it is too wide and the wedges don't go on the spoke far enough ( too much gap between the heal of the wedge and the spoke) you can try a 4".

http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploads/2/1/9/0/2190100/spokewheel.pdf

has a lot of good info on spoke wheels.

Thanks so much for the help.. your input is much appreciated. 

3 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Ahh you have hit the nub of it! The mfg determines the spacing when they make the spoke hub. It can be hard if years later things have been mixed and matched.

 The spacer band and the wedges are critical to the assembly.

 I have found that if you measure from the front of the spoke (where the wedge is) to the back where it just starts to taper up, if the measurement is over 6" a 4.25 band is a place to start.  Of course this means that you are using the stock wedges.

 If at all possible, look for the casting number for the hub and look up the mfg specs for the bands and wedges.

 You need to end up where the outer rim is placed where the wedges are far enough on the spoke to fully support the rim, but not so inboard that the wedge bottoms out before the correct force is on the  wedge.

 It is nice when setting up an unknown spoke, to have a selection of bands.

Again, if you can find how it came from the factory, you will be better off, but I have had to build some up without the factory specs.

 Too narrow and the rim will spin on the spoke, too wide and the wedges are not on the spoke and can snap studs and the assembly fail in a catastrophic failure.

 The spacer band also effects the duel spacing, but you don't change bands to try and fit a bigger tires and wider spacing, the spacing is set by the design of the assembly.

Thank you for the info! Again, I've only had to deal with 4" bands so the wider ones threw me off. I figured it would have something do with hubs/wedges. Would it be the same theory behind hubs on Rockwell axles? And, is there a "standard" width used on Macks with the 22" hubs on Mack axles?

On 20” and 22” Dayton hubs - What determines the width of the wheel spacer bands?? Most of what I have use 4” wide bands on 20” hubs, however I was organizing some stuff and came across 4.25” and 4.5” wide bands (some for 22” hubs). I just can’t recall how to know off hand when to use the 4.25” and 4.5” bands. 

I believe the guy above is correct.. you may have to fab up a mount for the front. I could be misinformed but I had always thought the RD had the beefed up frame but for the era of your trucks maybe a cab swap is possible.. do some investigating and take some measurements etc. As for the hood ?? And double check the 5 spd trans in each.. if they’re both the same model 5 spd such as TRL107 or TRL1076. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum so I’m sure you will get all the information you need. 

5 minutes ago, j hancock said:

OK.  Found the Autocar info.  It is indeed in the Wheels of Time July/August 2011 issue.

I can scan it in a little while and send via regular email full size.  It will burn some memory so the BMT message machine may not like it.  Two pages of code and about three pages with some history of the codes.

Sounds great I'd appreciate that! It would help out a lot. I just sent you a message with my email address. Thanks!

20 minutes ago, h67st said:

Dieseldoug on the ATHS website breaks it down the same as you. He said the "102" means 102 inches from center of front axle to back of cab, and the "64" means 6 wheels, 4 driven.

So the "64" would indicate a tandem axle truck, as in "six sets of wheels, four driven" (the four being the tandems)?

1 hour ago, 41chevy said:

  DC 10264 AT   translated is  * Cab-DC = Diesel w/ Convention cab depending time spread. The DC call out precedes the the final cab (which Acar called it when introduced) back to the flat windshield cabs     *Axle setting  = 102 axle forward  *Chassis, A =  Aluminum light weight  T = tandem  * Engine configuration D = diesel .

'A' generally is light weight Aluminum chassis, cab ,hood with steel or fiberglass fenders.

Their designations are very hard to decipher IMO and I own 3.

Thanks for the example...yea, they seem a bit difficult to decipher. Trying to learn that secret code!

2 hours ago, j hancock said:

I think I have some info explaining Autocar model info.  May take a day or two to recall what I did with it.

Thanks that would be great! Keep me posted...

On the old Autocar's of the 60s and 70s, how is the chassis/model number deciphered? For example DC10364SOH, DC9764OH, DC75T.....etc. I've tried searching online but could not come up with anything to help decipher all the different numbers for the different truck models.

On 8/29/2018 at 9:14 PM, DCR said:

Have you tried Margala & Sons truck Parts?  2640 Youngstown Hubbard Rd Youngstown, OH 44505   330-759-2750

Denny

just an update...went to see Ed at Margala's and i found exactly what i needed, however he doesn't want to separate it from the truck. But, he said he's sure he's got a couple more similar he's just got to "find it". So he told me that he will get back to me in a day or two. Hopefully it works out so I can paint it and put up on the roof before the end of Oct for a show I'd like to go to. And WoW, it's difficult to see from the road but Margala's has a lot of trucks there. Never noticed until today. He had quite a few Ford Louisville's too.

11 hours ago, keg1 said:

Sorry about that haven't been by there in awhile. 

no problem, i appreciate your assistance

17 minutes ago, keg1 said:

You could check with Kennedys near Slippery Rock. Haven't been in there in awhile but they used to get a lot of fleet stuff in. I know they used to have a lot of ABF.

just googled them to get a phone number to call in the AM, but it says permanently closed lol. i'll try the number anyway. but thank you for the message!

i forgot all about Margala...got on their website, i've just sent them an email. Thanks for reminding me about them. So far I contacted West Point Truck Center, Adelmans, and Aerodyne Industries. West Point had nothing, Adelmans had just one but it was too wide, and Aerodyne said they could make one but it would require new mounting brackets be installed on the cab roof for their style...i told them I had existing mounting brackets but according to the person I spoke with, they are not compatible. USF Holland in North Lima actually has the same style and size on their older road tractors...but they don't have any spares to part with. So I guess the search continues...

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Friend has electric version on his K100.  Since it's a toy and rarely pulls a trailer he runs with it down and then puts it up at shows.

nice...yea i'd do the same, only put it up as needed.

9 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

Kenworth offered an electrically risen roof deflector for many years that was a sharp set-up. If you could find a used one..............

Airodyne is Paccar's supplier and they sell what you're looking for.........http://www.airodyne.com/fuel_savings.asp

ok great! will look into that as well. Thanks again!

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Have you called Adelmans?  I haven't driven by lately, but surely they might have something similar.

http://www.adelmans.com/

i'm waiting to hear back from Adelmans...i sent them the pictures of what i needed, so maybe they'll have something. I also did the same with West Point Truck Center in Lisbon. If I could find a used on in decent condition I'd be ok with that, as I'd have to cut out a small section in the bottom-center of it for the rooftop A/C anyhow.

2 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

Rudkin-Wiley evolved into Airshield Corporation, which was acquired by Core Molding Technologies in 2001. Give them a call..... (614) 870-5012.

Here's another one to call......http://www.spectrumcomposites.com/aerodynamic-deflectors/

thanks for the phone number and for the spectrum website, i'll definitely check to see if they have anything that would work. it says they have them for roof brackets 34-37 " center to center, and my roof brackets are 37.5" center to center. if anything else comes to mind let me know...thanks for the info!

I’m looking for a fiberglass rooftop wind deflector as shown in the uploaded pics...is this universal style still available/produced?? If so, who makes it? I’ve not been able to locate one like it. 

On 7/11/2018 at 8:42 AM, j hancock said:

Huskidrive was introduced by Brockway Trucks in 1968.  It utilized a high torque rise Cummins in conjunction with a Fuller 5 speed transmission with Eaton 2 speed rears (5.05/3.70 ratios).   Power or economy at a flip of the switch. 

A truck with Huskidrive featured two Husky dogs on top of the hood.

The Huskidrive was in competition with the Mack Maxidyne system which had been introduced mid decade.  Brockway Trucks was an autonomous division of Mack since 1956.

6 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

Any time a mack has set for some years the rack in the pump can become frozen and can be a problem.I always check to see if I can move the rack before starting.

That's a good habit to get into, especially when looking at trucks that have been sitting a while. I will definitely keep that in mind from now on before starting anything that's been sitting a while.

11 hours ago, terry said:

ENDT 676 and T676 are the same engine three filters is a ESI engine, should have a extra deep oil pan if everything is correct. Sounds like he might have fixed the governor problem.    terry

Thanks for the info. ESI = extended service interval, correct? The oil pan does appear larger than normal so that makes sense. Is the governor problem common when they’ve been sitting a while? 

Hi everybody. I have been looking at a 76 R686 that's for sale and there is a discrepancy in the type of engine it has. The seller told me it isn't the original engine, it's a Mack rebuild that was installed new about 20 years ago. On the tag behind the fuel pump it only says "T676" (not ENDT), and on the ridge on the housing in front of the fuel inj pump (where it would normally say the engine type), it looks like there are some numbers stamped on the ridge but I don't think they were stamped deep enough as they've nearly disappeared and are illegible. The 3 oil filters make it look like an EM6, but I'm thrown off by the "T676" on the ID tag. I'm attaching two pics to this posting...

Also, it sat (inside) for over 5 years without being started/driven. The engine itself runs good but the owner tells me there's an intermittent problem. He says every so often, it will start up right away but will rev up significantly. He says it doesn't rev high enough to seem like it's running away, but if the engine stop is pulled out it doesn't shut down the engine...he dumps it in gear to get it to stall. He said that he took the little cover plate off the governor and soaked the insides down with WD40 and worked the control levers back and forth until the freed up (seemingly). Could it just be the governor was sticking from sitting for so long, or does it sound like something more serious - like maybe the plungers in the fuel inj pump? Just wanting to get some input on that. He told me that he started it/shut it down and restarted it about 20 times to see if the problem would come back, but it never did reoccur.

24 minutes ago, BOB DINGSDALE said:

I find oven cleaner from the wifes cupboard then wash off with garden hose.Takes the grease off the rear ends and trans.with no problem. just let it soak for a few minutes after spraying on. Practice makes perfect. 

never thought about that...does it hurt painted surfaces?

What's everybody using nowadays to give the engine and engine compartment area a good cleaning? In the past, I've tried spraying with Purple Power and then using a pressure washer...seemed to do the job ok but I'm open to new suggestions.  I've thought about using some kind of cleaner/degreaser again, and then steaming. I've seen people take their trucks to the coin operated car washes, and using the wand they'll spray the engine area down with the car wash's degreaser and then select steam and hit it with steam from the wand. Anybody every try that? Just wondering how effective it is.