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Posts posted by LFD1935
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15 hours ago, j hancock said:
OK. A Mack EN-271 engine built by Continental (M6271).
Monte's or CIP may be able to help with a piston.
Jim, do you know of they would have a head gasket? If not any suggestions?
Thanks
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1 hour ago, j hancock said:
M6 sounds like a Continental Engine.
When looking at the left side of the engine, there should be a machined pad with numbers stamp near the front of the block just below the head. Check to see if you can get the numbers. Example: white circle in picture.
There are M6253, M6271, M6290, M6330 engines.
Found it EN 2710-2184
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I need all of your knowledge, well because this is not my strength. Short story, 1935 B series Mack Fire Truck with a flat 6. Engine is not original to the truck. We ran a compression test and the #3 cylinder is junk, looking in through the plug hole we can see the piston is cracked. We are not sure of the engine, some say its a 36, others say its a 43. Markings on the bottom end are M 6(or maybe S) 00A602X. On the top it looks like 827 56. Trying to figure out where to go from here. We are a non profit with limited funds. I appreciate any info and suggestions you all may have.
Thanks.
Compression Results front to back. 100, 92, 15, 80, 98, 78. Verified #3 with a second gauge.
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Thank you Jim
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Anyone know what the correct gap for new plugs on a 37 Mack straight 6 motor?
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35 B series fire engine. We continue to make progress with the old girl. One thing we can not figure out is the choke. The truck is happiest running at a quarter choke. Idles nice, runs fine. If I push the choke in, it stalls out. We have replaced the choke cable, Carb was rebuilt to factory spec (Zenith side mount down draft), fuel lines cleared, new fuel filter, fuel pump torn down and cleaned, fresh fuel, we also checked that the choke mechanism is functioning correctly.
So the question is, do we continue to try and solve the issue or just accept that this is where she is happy and move on? It was suggested that we cheat the choke cable and set the quarter open as closed. Thoughts?
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On the bright side we got our 35 Mack running again. Downside we have having some difficulty finding a happy idle. I am finding that the choke needs to be about a quarter engaged to idle, though it seems like a high idle. When given fuel, sometimes it will choke itself out and stall when you remove your foot from the pedal. Carb was just rebuilt and set to factor spec. Fuel is fresh. I know its a shot in the dark, but any thoughts?
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23 minutes ago, alex g said:
Fill up your tank probably have to pour a small amount of fuel down carb to get it to start after that your off to the races
Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk
Next question, it's a side mount Zenith Carb, so you can't just pour fuel down it as it sits sideways. I don't really want to detach it again. Do I use a starter spray, assuming I can get to the opening?
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I truly am an uneducated boob when it comes to this stuff so I appreciate any guidance that can be provided. We recently resurfaced the interior of our gas tank, replaced fuel lines and had the carb rebuilt (35 B Series- Fire Truck). So needless to say, the fuel system is completely dry. What do i need to do before trying to start her up?
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On 5/11/2017 at 6:42 PM, 1958 F.W.D. said:
It is absolutely CRITICAL to run non-ethanol gasoline in your antique **ESPECIALLY if it sits for long periods of time**
Corn gas ate a hole in the diaphragm of the mechanical pump on my Waukesha. Cannot find parts anymore. Had to install an electric pump. I am fortunate in that I have a non-ethanol/special fuels station 10 miles from me and I can get 87 Octane non-eth straight out of a pump, right now it is about $2.89 a gallon. I also add StarTron or StaBil to it for extra insurance. In the summer, when I go to a lot of shows, I will add corn gas in small quantities if I cannot get over to the non eth place.
Some people run AvGas or racing fuels, I will not, I am convinced this runs too hot and will burn valves in older stuff.
Here is a good website to find non-eth fuels: www.pure-gas.orgOn a side note: I switched all of my small engines to non-eth 2 years ago. The difference in performance is DAY AND NIGHT. The smaller the engine, the better it runs on non-eth....My string trimmer and hand held blower became BEASTS when I switched.
You are fortunate for sure. Closest non ethanol is about 30 miles away... $9.99 gal.
Had a good conversation with a gentleman who restores classic vehicles. He suggested, because we will run through a couple tanks in the warmer months to run premium 93 with a lead additive and when it comes time to store her for the winter, drain or run down the fuel to almost nothing and put in 5 gallons of non ethanol, run until you can smell the change to ensure the lines and carb are filled with non ethanol fuel and park it.
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14 hours ago, bulldogboy said:
LFD1935:
That's the early "B" model that used to be Meadowood, NH's muster truck? I read somewhere recently that it was originally from Lunenburg, MA and that LFD reacquired it. If you need advice, two
other MA fire departments that have early "B" models are Barnstable, a 1935 model and Three Rivers (Palmer), a 1933 model. I put a picture of Meadowood's truck on the "New Hampshire Macks" thread.
bulldogboy
Yep. Here is an article that outlines the history.
I believe there is a sister truck, one number off down in CT as well.
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18 hours ago, TDBach said:
Was this truck showcased on a TV garage show a few weeks back? The old Mack looks familiar! Hopefully all goes well with your restoration!
Ms Tracy D.
Not our truck, but there still are a few others around.
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1 hour ago, j hancock said:
Looks Fantastic!
Was this truck at one time owned by Meadowood Fire Department in NH as their muster truck?
Jim you are a wise man... in short yes.
Originally purchased by Lunenburg on December 27, 1935 (Yes I have the original bill of sale) it was traded-in in 1961. Then in 1985, some of our members were up at Meadowood for a training and there she sat. In rough shape sitting outside. They negotiated the sale and brought her home.
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What are people running for fuel? We have a 1935 Mack Fire Truck (engine is a 36) and just had the fuel tank relined and the carb completely rebuilt with all new components. I need to bring suggestions to our committee to make a decision on fuel for our old girl. Primarily the truck will be used only for community events, local shows and parades. So not a lot of miles. Maybe going out once or twice a month into the fall and then stored for the winter. I have heard a bunch of suggestions from race fuel, to AV fuel, to regular 93 octane. I know a stabilizer is a must, thoughts also on a lead additive? I would love to hear what people are running.
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I have been looking for a community to join for advice and support as I have adopted the challenge of keeping our 1935 Mack Fire Truck on the road. The truck itself is owned by the Lunenburg, MA Firefighters Association and was the first motorized fire apparatus purchased by the town of Lunenburg, MA. I am the treasurer and chief fundraiser for our Fire Association.
Over the past couple years the old girl has sat stagnate after a blow out of the rear end and no funds to repair her. After some major fundraising we have done the following work and should be bringing her back to life in the next couple weeks. The truck itself is a 1935 and the engine is a 1936.
-Rear end rebuilt
-Fuel Tank interior restored and relined
-New fuel lines
-Brand new core and seals for the radiator
-Carb completely rebuilt with all new components
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Bearings in a 36 Flat 6?
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
What type of bearing would be found in a 1936 Mack EN-271 engine built by Continental (M6271)? EN#2710-2184
I am being asked if the are Babbitt bearings.