RedMackWheeler

Thanks for all your help.

I tried to do my research. But those spring loaded push rods weren't in the book. Do you think it damaged things to run the engine like that for 3-5 minutes?

Correct. I had been watching the rockers as someone else rotated the engine to make sure #1 was 30°after TC of compression stroke. I didn't know about watching #2 trick. I was also looking at #6, the companion cylinder, close off the exhaust valves and open the intake (just after exhaust stroke) as the engine was coming up on the timing mark. Im pretty sure I was adjusting at the right time/stroke. Let me know if I'm wrong though. Thanks.

Thank you Jojo. Yes, I did use the flywheel valve adjusting marks to start with #1 and then 5,3,6,2,4. I did also set the bridge clearance on the exhaust valves to .010. The yokes/ bridges on the intake valves for this engine did not seem to have any adjustment to them, so I did not do anything to adjust those. Am I missing something about these bridges? After I posted, I saw a post where you helped out Mcrachet1 with a similar problem in May of 2024. JoeH also added what seemed like factory instructions for spring loaded push rods. I think I have something to go on now. Thank you for your help.

Hello, Just installed new heads on 99 CL with E7460 etech with an engine brake.. It has spring loaded push rods. When adjusting valves, I adjusted them without compressing the push rod spring but engine seems doggy and seems like there is a lot of noise coming right out the air cleaner. I've never had any experience with spring loaded push rods and the book didn't say to compress the springs when adjusting the clearance so I didn't. But now I'm wondering if not doing so could be not allowing the exhaust valves to fully open and so when the intake valve opens the air that didn't get let out through the exhaust, is actually getting released through the intake valves since it is still under pressure. Thanks in advance for your help.

I didn't see anything like the plug you're describing. Of course, a lot of things are different than factory back there since the frame was extended for a log body. But there is a splice in the wires near where the frame was extended, and I couldn't get any current for the reverse lights even before that splice. I saw one photo of a VMACIII circuit protection key that shows #42 being "Back-Up Lps." on a 20A fuse. is that a whole separate fuse box from the cab circuit protection? Thanks.

Hi JoJo, Thanks for your response. I did check that four wire harness out. I didn't see anything disconnected. I did back probe all four wires and the reverse lights were the only ones that I was unable to get power out of (even with the key on and transmission in reverse). The truck does not have a back-up alarm. Any idea whether one of the circuit breakers is for the reverse lights? and if so which one it would be? Thanks.

Hello, So I stalled my 99 CL713 in high range reverse the other day. Now I don't have any reverse lights. The light on the dash to indicate that the truck is in reverse is working which would indicate that it is not the sensor on the transmission. Am I correct about this? Does anyone know of some simple things to check before tearing apart the wire loom? Do the reverse lights on a 99 go through a light control module like they do on more modern trucks? Thanks.

Hello folks: I have a 99 CL713 with the E7460. About 6 months ago, we had to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets on it. The studs for cylinder #6 did not come out easy. Now, we are starting to notice oil coming out from around that bottom stud that holds the manifold against cylinder #6 and you can smell hot oil when it is running. Is this because we messed things up when removing/replacing that stud? or is it just a coincidence and there is something else going on with the cylinder head/valves? Does anyone know what the best way to approach the repair would be? Is this a common problem? Thanks, -Zach

Hello, I am trying to prepare myself for the process of replacing the stand, shaft, bushings, saddles etc, on a '99 CL with 44k camelback. I was hoping that people could give me some insight into this process. I have seen the trunnion stands from Stengel Brothers that supposedly bolt in from underneath. Has anybody used these? what were your thoughts on it? I have heard you have to drill out the holes in the frame a couple of sizes larger to do it, is this true? How about finding the specs for tightening up the new bushings, washers etc on the new shaft? Is this possible to do if you have some time, and have some experience working on trucks but are not a professional suspension person? Any experiences or insight is appreciated. Thanks.