58GreenMackB

I had a cracked shim plate that sets the castor angle on my 1958 Mack B model front springs. Can anyone tell me if replacements are available or if anyone has one laying around?

Thanks for the input. The original chambers on the truck were type 30, but did not have the spring brakes.

Hi all. I'm in the process of upgrading my original brakes to a 3030 spring brake chamber. My question is the difference between the various types. I've seen chambers ranging from $50 all the way up to $200 on Napa's website. I was curious what the differences are for the price? Also does anyone have recommendations for good ones to buy for the upgrade? As always, thanks for everyone's input!

Thank you appreciate it.

I have the FA505 Steer Axle on my truck. I am looking for replacement springs for the brake shoes. There is one large return spring for the brake shoes and two smaller springs that hold the shoes to the back plate. I was wondering if anyone found these or do I need a picture of what I have for further discussion?

Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the info guys! Any advice on how you straighten the tie rod. Only the end is bent.

I have a 1958 B Model. Can anyone tell me paint code for the original red color? It appears to look like the truck below. I will post some pictures of the leftover paint on the frame tomorrow to better show it.

Hey all. Just wanted to give everyone an update on what all I am doing this summer. I found out the kingpins are bad on my 58' B model so I took the front end apart. The only issue I currently have is that the tie rod is slightly bent on one end. However, I think it is reusable if I cannot find one. Here's the vendors I used for parts: D & D Automobilia - They are recasting my steering wheel. Great to work with. Their attention to detail is amazing. rareparts.com - Rebuilding/Finding Replacements for my Tie Rods. Hust Brothers - Brake Shoe Relining Greensburg Machine - Spring Rebuild/King Pin Installation (Local Company) Watt's For Everything In-between NAPA - NCP 2621571 - King Pins (Have to research this for an FA505) Okay so my question is has anyone removed the pins out of the springs? I see there is a bolt that retains the pins. Any tips or tricks on how to get them out of there? The FA505 axle will be removed before I attempt to remove the springs. As always, I appreciate everyone's input.

I got it. I do not have the box that has the bolt going through it. I have the one that only has the large retaining nut. What I did was use the OTC 7310A puller. I broke the side support bolts that came with it so I replaced them with grade 8 hardware....no more wing nuts flying across the truck when they snap off. I took a huge C-clamp that I use to compress brake calipers and snugged it up. Put my Milwaukee M18 Impact on it and let her rip. Popped right off! Sometimes just takes a little bit of re-engineerng to get the desired outcome from your tools. Thanks for all the input.

Can anyone give me some recommendations on good pitman arm pullers for a 1958' Mack B Model? I bought a "Heavy Duty" one from OTC and all I can seem to do is spread it and never actually get enough tension to pull it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for the input guys . Now its just getting the stubborn pitman arm off and I'll have her out.

It was that way on my 61' Corvette with a smaller (But similar) box, but wanted to check to make my life easier if possible.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the steering column from the steering box on a 58' B Model. Column is loose, but need to know how to disconnect the steering shaft from the box to remove it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks a bunch

I am removing my steering box to have it overhauled. The rubber seals have long since disappear for the drag link. Has anyone found suitable replacements? I had these on my old Corvette and they looked like the picture below.

Thanks for all the responses. I will let them know at D and D Automobilia. I figured they weren't an original feature, but wanted to double check. I will post pictures of the wheel when its done. Its 5 months out right now, but worth the wait!

I am having my 1958 B model steering wheel recast by D & D Automobilia. I want to ensure that the recast product is true to the original design as possible. My wheel had 3 large cracks on the center as pictured. Can anyone tell me if this trio is part of the original casting or something that formed over time (I know the gap would've been much smaller on a brand new wheel)? If anyone can post pictures of original steering wheels so I can give their shop some guidance I would appreciate it. Also, would the Mack Historical Museuem have any blueprints or drawings on these wheels? If so who do I contact to get some of these. Most important thing to me is keeping it as original as possible. The wheel doesn't look bad, but it was in sad shape when I removed it. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys. I know the front end is out of alignment. When I got it home, I noticed that the one tire is wearing more on the inside. Think this is something I will fix next spring when I rebuild the front end.

I know no one can tell me whats wrong, but they can give me some general direction on where to begin looking. From experience with our 61 Corvette that looks to have similar setup, the ball stud and the drag links would get worn and cause play in the steering. If it is this, does anyone know where replacement parts would be available?

I've been slowly working through getting all my gauges to work on my truck since purchasing it last month. Luckily Watts is down the road from me so I can get what I need to fix the parts that are missing or broken. Next spring I plan on going through all the front suspension components. Replacing kingpins and tie rod ends etc. For now, I was wondering if anyone had any insight on what I can do to alleviate some of the loose steering at higher speeds. When I drove the truck home on the PA turnpike, there were times when the steering required constant adjustment to keep it straight. I've checked all the components underneath and everything seems tight and as it should be. Could it be that the sector shaft in the box needs some adjustment or something else? Any input would be appreciated!

Still no luck on this. Any advice on finding some of this stuff?

I might take you up on that offer. What's going on up at Keystone?

I may be heading to hershey to see if I can get the shock rods for the truck. However, I think your heim joint solution is a better option for the long term. I highly doubt I'll find one in good enough condition to use on the truck. For now, I have a 666F speedometer gear assembly and was able to steal parts from it to make mine work or so I hope. If this doesn't work, I will be asking you for more details on how you converted it to electronic. Thanks for all the input!

Looking for a few things for my 1958 Mack B61T: Shutterstat Grill Shutterstat Actuator Bracket Shock Rod For Houdaille Shocks. Need the rod and the upper part of the rod that connects to the houdaille shock. Let me know what all you have. Thanks everyone!