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About nslovacek

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  • Birthday November 25


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  1. nslovacek


    Mine is a cable also.
  2. I did check the block for flatness with a straight edge and feeler gauges. It is flat enough I could never see any light or get a gauge to slide under it. I was concerned for the operation of the rod and failure of the bearing as well. But as I was tearing down the engine I was plastigauging the oil clearances so I could get an idea of oil gaps to make sure I could order the right bearings. Crank is like a brand new one and the oil clearances where just about perfect on rods and mains at 2 thou all the way through the engine. If it was wearing uneven I would thing a taper would have been very
  3. This is the second v-8 mack for me and I don't know how many in lines and gasers. First I have seen. Throwed me for a loop for sure. Will do and thanks all for the input.
  4. I am thinking of leaving alone. I was going to bore it. But I believe that the entire bore that the sleeve slides into is out of alignment and I am afraid that if I true the counter bore that is going to cause bigger problems. I have had good luck cutting my own shims in the past but a half shim is a bad idea because it is a gradual taper of the counter bore to the deck not a stepped height. If I bore the top out to get it parallel with the deck the bottom of the liner is going to be under pressure on one side and pushing the liner flange up. I have just never come across a block that would ha
  5. fjh that has been the problem, the protrusion is off because the counter bore is off. It does not measure the same all the way around. It is two thousandths different from the 2 o'clock to the 8 o'clock position with the 2 being 2 thousandths higher. I have determined that the whole bore is definitely milled a little a skew of perpendicular to the crank. I used some dykem ink and inked the back side of the liner flange and where the orings sit at the bottom of the liner. I inserted the liner fully and wiggled it a bit at the bottom of the whole. The theory being that if the bore was straight a
  6. Paul that is what I am trying to avoid. I haven't found any cracks and that was not the reason for the in frame. I caught a valve seat dropping and pulled the heads before it came out. It was still seated just loose. While I had it open ran a bore gauge in the tops of cylinders and found them to be on the verge of falling out of speck so decided to do the in frame before parts get even harder to come by. Sent the heads to a machine shop here locally and they put all new seats in. The checked all the valves and where all still in spec even though I had them replace any that where in a seat that
  7. I have been going over this thing with a fine tooth comb. Will continue to do so. Measure twice cut once so to speak. Will look for options on tooling. The mira counter bore tool is the only one that I am finding that is a universal design, the otc, kent moore, monaco all require cutters engine specific. Am I correct in this?
  8. fjh, Got the turbo off already and going through it. Haven't found any damage but, I didn't eat the valve seat. I just heard something I didn't like when I got in off a run and started digging. So hopefully all is good in the turbo. I also have not found any cracks and I was not leaking any water. You think cutting the counter bore is enough to fix this or is the whole sleeve bored at an angle. I am not sure I got the tools to measure this. If the bore is at an angle and I parallel the bore with the deck, would I not run the risk of breaking the liner flange? And yet if I don't parallel the bo
  9. This is unlikely for you withe Dale's heads but i was pursuing a tick that turned out to be a valve seat dropping.
  10. I have come across something while doing an in frame on my '88 E9 that i have never seen before. The counterbore on the #6 cylinder is nearly two thousandths out of parallel with the deck from the front of engine to the back. Rather the 2 o'clock position is the highest point at almost .002 over the ten o'clock and 8 o'clock measurements. this is translated to the fire ring channel as well. I cleaned up the old liner and dropped it back in and it was the same. This made me concerned for the sleeve flange breaking or the piston running crooked and eating up the rod bearings. But I plastigaged
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