nslovacek

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About nslovacek

  • Rank
    First Gear
  • Birthday November 25

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oklahoma

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    Superliners
  • Year
    1982/1988
  1. I did check the block for flatness with a straight edge and feeler gauges. It is flat enough I could never see any light or get a gauge to slide under it. I was concerned for the operation of the rod and failure of the bearing as well. But as I was tearing down the engine I was plastigauging the oil clearances so I could get an idea of oil gaps to make sure I could order the right bearings. Crank is like a brand new one and the oil clearances where just about perfect on rods and mains at 2 thou all the way through the engine. If it was wearing uneven I would thing a taper would have been very noticeable at this point. The visual inspection of the sleeves and the piston indicated everything looked really good. I had to think long and hard about inframing this engine. I bore gauged it and specs looked really good. It was something that I thought I could get by with just glaze busting and putting it back together. I opted to go deeper because of the parts getting harder and harder to come by and I want to keep these two old trucks I got on the road as long as possible. Love these e-9s. I didn't find this out of parallelness until I was shimming the liner heights. It has definitely been a head scratcher. Putting it all back together I think is my best option, if it ain't broke don't fix it so to speak, but it isn't a decision I have the most confidence in for sure. My other truck is a truck I grew up on and know its history, this one that I am having issues with is a truck I got out of Ohio last year. Probably wasn't the truck I should have bought but once you have an e9 it is hard to look at anything else.
  2. This is the second v-8 mack for me and I don't know how many in lines and gasers. First I have seen. Throwed me for a loop for sure. Will do and thanks all for the input.
  3. I am thinking of leaving alone. I was going to bore it. But I believe that the entire bore that the sleeve slides into is out of alignment and I am afraid that if I true the counter bore that is going to cause bigger problems. I have had good luck cutting my own shims in the past but a half shim is a bad idea because it is a gradual taper of the counter bore to the deck not a stepped height. If I bore the top out to get it parallel with the deck the bottom of the liner is going to be under pressure on one side and pushing the liner flange up. I have just never come across a block that would have been machined out of spec like that. How did this pass quality control.
  4. fjh that has been the problem, the protrusion is off because the counter bore is off. It does not measure the same all the way around. It is two thousandths different from the 2 o'clock to the 8 o'clock position with the 2 being 2 thousandths higher. I have determined that the whole bore is definitely milled a little a skew of perpendicular to the crank. I used some dykem ink and inked the back side of the liner flange and where the orings sit at the bottom of the liner. I inserted the liner fully and wiggled it a bit at the bottom of the whole. The theory being that if the bore was straight and the counter bore off that the ink would rub off one side of the flange or just one side of the bottom of the sleeve. It didn't. The ink is removed evenly around the flange and the wear on the ink at the bottom was even and at a minimum as should be since there is supposed to be a few thousandths (.001-.003 i think) clearance at the bottom of the sleeve. So from the best that I can determine, is that, the counter bore and the bore are in the proper relationship to each other but the counter bore to the deck height is off 2 thousandths of an inch across the same cylinder. If I true the counter bore to the deck height the o rings at the bottom of the bore will center the liner leaving a space between the flange and the counter bore and potentially causing failure. I have about come to the conclusion that I am best to shim the liner to .005 thou at the 2 o'clock position and pray the fire ring compensates the difference. The book list 2 thou difference between cylinders but i think in this case it is going to have to work for the same cylinder. At least I think it was working before.
  5. Paul that is what I am trying to avoid. I haven't found any cracks and that was not the reason for the in frame. I caught a valve seat dropping and pulled the heads before it came out. It was still seated just loose. While I had it open ran a bore gauge in the tops of cylinders and found them to be on the verge of falling out of speck so decided to do the in frame before parts get even harder to come by. Sent the heads to a machine shop here locally and they put all new seats in. The checked all the valves and where all still in spec even though I had them replace any that where in a seat that was loose. Got the heads back and they look good. It was when I started to measure everything and putting in the new liners that I found this one counter bore a problem. What makes me really curious is it is in cylinder that had bad valve seats. Could just be coincidence. I have cleaned and examined this hole with every trick I can think over short of magnaflux which I do not have the equipment for. All seems to be good except for the lack of parallelness between the counter bore and the deck. Going to try to check the squareness of the sleeve to the deck here after dinner. Not entirely sure how I am going to do that accurately enough to do any good. But really want to make sure that the cylinder bore is machined at the proper angle. If it is the counter bore that was messed up by some one previously, then to cut the new counter bore is all that is need. If the whole bore is sloped. I might be best to leave it be. It wasn't leaking before.
  6. I have been going over this thing with a fine tooth comb. Will continue to do so. Measure twice cut once so to speak. Will look for options on tooling. The mira counter bore tool is the only one that I am finding that is a universal design, the otc, kent moore, monaco all require cutters engine specific. Am I correct in this?
  7. fjh, Got the turbo off already and going through it. Haven't found any damage but, I didn't eat the valve seat. I just heard something I didn't like when I got in off a run and started digging. So hopefully all is good in the turbo. I also have not found any cracks and I was not leaking any water. You think cutting the counter bore is enough to fix this or is the whole sleeve bored at an angle. I am not sure I got the tools to measure this. If the bore is at an angle and I parallel the bore with the deck, would I not run the risk of breaking the liner flange? And yet if I don't parallel the bore the fire ring might not seal. But the thing was sealed up good before. I keep going in circles on this thing. Your input is greatly appreciated.
  8. This is unlikely for you withe Dale's heads but i was pursuing a tick that turned out to be a valve seat dropping.
  9. I have come across something while doing an in frame on my '88 E9 that i have never seen before. The counterbore on the #6 cylinder is nearly two thousandths out of parallel with the deck from the front of engine to the back. Rather the 2 o'clock position is the highest point at almost .002 over the ten o'clock and 8 o'clock measurements. this is translated to the fire ring channel as well. I cleaned up the old liner and dropped it back in and it was the same. This made me concerned for the sleeve flange breaking or the piston running crooked and eating up the rod bearings. But I plastigaged them on disassembly and every single clearance was perfect at .002. Bearings where not undersized. There are many parts like injectors, rods, and such that are signed and dated '98, and as far as i can tell, it has been a very long time since this engine was opened up. Also the head gaskets where beautiful when I removed the heads no sign of anything leaking or loosing seal in anyway. Has anyone come across this before? And anyone have any ideas what to do about it? I don't know if it is the counterbore cut crooked or the whole sleeve bore milled at the wrong angle. I am concerned about breaking the flange or wasting the bearing, and yet the old stuff was good. The only other thing to note was I started to drop the exhaust valve seats on that cylinder. Which is what started this whole process. Any info, experience, or ideas how to move forward would be greatly appreciated. Thanks