fields auto

So I got in touch with a Guy in Reno NV who had recently junked out a b-42 He had cut the cab in quarters and was about to haul the sheet metal into the scrap yard. When I told him I would like to buy the cut up cab pieces he agreed boxed them up and shipped them to me. What I got was parts to a perfect B-model cab unrusted and untouched by time. So I called him back and asked why he decided to cut up a perfect B-model cab he told me that everything in NV is in this type of condition no rust just dents. I live in Maine we have so much rust why we patch and putty on stuff and try to get it to look good where as these guy are cutting up stuff I would kill for! He also went on to say everything is being hauled out for scrap with these high scrap prices he said if I like old trucks I would cry to go to the scrap yard Mack's Pete's KW's everything! So that my beef...

it's well worth the wait. I agree

yeah that's thats the best way to do it. behind the cab maybe I could build it into the headache rack. The a/c lines would have to be awful long but maybe I could put he evaporator under the pass. bench seat. Who knows somthing to think about anyways

would you recomend a conversion on a 675 2 valve engine. And would it be to expensive? I would think you could find a intercooler and a tip turbin in the junk yard for not that much?

Is there anyway to install a a/c condenser in a b61 without cutting the front grill? could I mount the condenser somewhere else

so what is a tip turbin on a mack's engine intercooler and what does it do?

My B61LT does not have a fuse box there either. I guess they didn't put one in or they used fuseable links?

Why do some b model mack trucks have chrome radiator shells and some don't? was it a option at the factory or a aftermarket thing

I think it is a dry sleeve motor. (the coolant never touches the sleeve)

When I purchased my mack the engine didn't want to start so I did as the others recomended. I belive the rack is struck on your engine too. I got to forceful when I took the governor top off and stated prying back and forth on the rack fork I broke the little pin in two where it attaches to the rack . so I ended up taking the whole injector pump off removed the governor from the injection pump and loosened up the rack that way that's what I would do in your case it is not a hard job to take the governor off the pump and you won't break any parts you migth have to take the injection pump off the engine however. As for the pin I was lucky and was able to make one on my lathe with no trouble then case harden the piece to make it hard. I wish you the best of luck and have fun these engines are very forgiving!

I just have my b-61 mack but my customers are already telling me where more are stuck out in the weeds and bushes. I hope I can add to my collection! Scrap is so high rigth now I hope poeple chose to give them a home with me instead of the scrap yard

is the END673 in the 672 engine family or is it a differant engine all together. If I buy a manual to rebuild a 672 is that like buying a munal for a 673?

my opinion who ever keeps letting these foreigners in this country is mostly for this blame all the bleeding heart liberals that say thats not right and you cant say that is what really fddddd up this country everybody allways forgets the basics about stuff for example what are fathers and grandfathers did years ago to make this country what it is next time you fly the flag on 4th of july or any other holiday think of that at my house and shop old glory flys high every day for the right reasons i feel for all the men and women who fought for this counrty over the years and are seeing now whats going on

I'm just a young buck 28 years old. But the biggest problem with this country is our young! There is alot of good kids out there but I think there's more bad spoiled brats then we can handle! So many of my friends have done nothing with their lives. Its so sad to see them just sit around the house and smoke pot and play video games. I don't think everyone is destined for greatness but I just wish my generation would work harder.

Ok.......stupid idea.........but would be cool to have.

My question is how difficult would it be to switch mine over to air(from electric). Besides getting starter, some plumbing, and a large air tank.

I've got about 6 yrs on the batteries and I'm sure they'll be coming due for replacement. I could sell off the electric stuff and put air on it instead. Stupid idea, right.

How "undependable" would it be? I have air supply at home to keep it charged up, but on the road how bad could it be? Don't usually have long stays away from home(day or so). I suppose if I had problems I could use a tire to charge tank if it leaked down.

Anyone have some parts for sale that I could start piecing it together?

I think a air starter is great! That was one of the selling points for me when I purchased my Mack. The only thing is that the air tank for the air starter is as big as a fuel tank. With that tank after it's aired up I get a 15 second blast. When the engine is warm however I need very little air to get it runing. I bet I can start that warm engine with a 3 second blast from the air starter!

Good Evening If you have the serial number contact the mack museum they should have a lot of info on your truck.build sheet origial owner, orignal engine, trans etc, also check ebay for books parts etc. Good luck and thanks for saving one more MACK.Skip

Is that the museum in Allentown Pa? Thankyou for the info it will be neat to try and find out the history of the truck

Well a non turbo Mack diesel in a B model would be an END673. EN is for engine D means its a diesel and 673 is the displacement in cubic inches. There would be a T after the D if it was a turbo. There were also a few letters that came after that denoted the generation of the block. For example I have an ENDT673 with no trailing letter which is the original turbo block that only allowed for a bypass oil filter. Newer 673 blocks had the ability to use a full flow oil filter. Look on top of the gear housing above where the injection pump bolts and look for the engine ID numbers stamped on. Also you can look at the passenger side of the block toward the front where the tach cable runs to the compressor shaft housing and there is the engine plate.

Thankyou for telling me how to read the number code on the engine. You made it very clear and once I find the identification number I'll know what the engine is

Thankyou, for the information my mack does have two intake manifolds what does this mean when you say hopped up? Tomorrow I will try and fine the numbers on the engine

Sounds like a neat truck. Would love to have an AIR starter on mine! Way cool.

If you can locate the engine number on the front of accy drive(pass. side), front of motor, that will tell you alot about the engine.

Does it have SPLIT intake manifold(two pcs, one for each head)? That's the hopped up version of 673.

Be sure to add your serial number to the B model registry(find link on front page of forums).

Serial number will be on Pass. frame rail behind front spring perch. Compare this to what is on title, as it could be mis-matched(like mine). It will be "B61Txxxxxx" in about 1/2" stamped letters.

Thankyou,

Hi I'm new this site I signed up because I just purchased a B model Mack. I want to know more about it. What I do know is that it is a single screw tractor very short it has a air starter and a wet line. The engine is a 6 cylinder diesel without a turbo.

What I need help with is the engine identification what is the engine and where do I find it. If anybody Knows of any good Mack books to read let me know I what to learn as much as I can about Macks so I don't sound or look like a fool! thanks