a5redwing

The only issue would be to make sure ALL of the old green coolant is gone. Even a small amount of ethelyne glycol will defeat the advantage of the new red exteded life coolant.

If your engine has the coolant conditioner/filter spin-on, change at the recommended interval and no other additives are needed.

Gregg

We flushed it, but I'm sure it will need to be flushed again later. I put on a new coolant filter on every oil change (10,000 mi.). He wanted me to run straight water and cascade detergent and let it dry over the weekend and I chose not to in case some work came up.

The parts changer I use suggested after I flushed the coolant in my 99 mack that I should swap over to red coolant. After a few minutes of thinking and talking about it I did it. He claims It doesn't need any additive and is better for the motor. I don't know if he was blowing smoke or not so i did it. Any known downsides or issues with swapping? Thanks for any help.

One more thing, I've had the fan blower switch go bad. The fan would blow but would not have any a/c in high or low just in medium. Replaced the switch and all was good. And make sure all wiring harnesses are plugged up. sometimes its the stuff that makes you feel dumb.

Those rotory valves aren't to expensive, you might as well get a new one. I've had one go bad before.

The mechanic was asking me the other day "Why haven't you had your truck turned up yet?" I have a 355/380 e7 and I told him it was decent on power and blowing up that motor didn't seem like a good idea. He said that all you need is a new turbo and injectors $$$$$. Can I safely have it turned up a little +- 25 hp WITHOUT changing parts?

10-4 . Anyone know why a air compressor that goes on the 711 engine would be around 700 bucks??

Is that reman or without the core?

I added one just for good measure.

Good deal. I found another post he had and added one too.

Im no help here but I wish you well and hop its a simple fix.

My trucks in the shop now having a new compressor put on it.

i didn't mean to down your reputation, I was trying to figure out what those buttons were and accidentally clicked it. Sorry.

Here's what is was: the intake on the compressor's gasket was bad. A little gasket maker and problem solved! Thanks to everyone who answered.

That sounds like a AD4 drier which would be a problem with the purge valve letting turbo boost bleed out the bottom when it should be closed. Mine did it for a while and then stopped.

I know my pressure bleeds off a little from the drier, that could make sense. Any ideas on how to locate noise while idling?

We have a 2006 CHN Rawhide with a 460xt with the same noise during build up. The compressor stops making the knocking or slapping noise at cut out pressure (130 psi) When we first started noticing the noise it sounded like cam or roller lifters starting to fail. But it's definetly in the compressor of our truck. This unit has just over 680,000 miles. it has only gotten noisy in the last year or so and dissapears when the compressor cuts out. Mind you our truck has the single lung meritor compressor. are you sure your compressor is a bendix? I have heard the same noise on another truck with the same 1 lung meritor compressor but not a bendix. the only fix for the knock or slap on the meritor is replacment of the unit.

No I'm not sure it is, but the Mack mechanic that looked at it said it was. He thought it was the intake line for the compressor until I figured out it went along with pressure build up.

Hey guys back again, so here we go. I have a 355/380 e7 and a Bendix compressor. In the morning while engine is cool I have no noise, but after my compressor builds up a few times and gets hot, when the turbo kicks in there is a choppy noise while pressure builds up. Once the drier pops off it stops. This is the way it is most of the day. By afternoon and everything is hot I hear it EVERY time the turbo kicks in. It will not make a noise while idling or revving the motor. The compressor stops building pressure at 130 but when the turbo is working hard only 120. Is the compressor, governor, a air line bad? I check all my turbo boots and related. I has to be something dealing with that compressor, right? Thanks for any help.

Hi all

Has anybody an idea how I could prepare my Dump Trailer Body (steel) that the load slips

easier out of the body. I am carring plaster stones for a portland cement producer.

Normally, there is quite a large part which stucks ahead of the body.

Marcel

I use a liner in my bobtail dump. It is a slick poly material they come in different lengths and widths. If you ever plan to haul hot mix asphalt you either have to remove the liner or buy a very expensive one that can take the heat. My bed is 13.5 feet and i think the liner is 10 feet wide (It goes up the sides about 18 inches) and it cost about 350.00 without installation. I put it in myself and it was a chore. They say it needs to be at least 70 degrees outside for it to lay flat and mold to the bed. I say it needs to be closer to 90 degrees.

They will charge you by the foot, If all you haul is soil, sand, and some rock a 1/4 inch liner is all you need. if you haul rip rap or any demo debis consider getting something thicker.

http://www.rrrsupply.com/poly-truck-liners/

This is similar to what people around here use. A spray in liner will hold more dirt than it does on bare metal. Diesel works but if it isn't allowed you may have work that shovel.

PS no matter what liner you have mud will stick to anything especially drilling mud. Drew

The basic truck is a CH600. A CH612 is a Mack powered single drive truck, a CH613 is a Mack powered tandem drive truck. I cannot remember any more if Mack offered any other power in the CH but during the run of the CL Cat power was avalible and they were CL753's and Cummins Power was avaible and they were CL733's if memory serves me. The MH was the same/similar as well.

That's a pretty good run down Terry T, thanks. I don't think the CH offered anything other than mack engines, but just because I've never seen one doesn't mean anything.

pretty good rundown,,hate to see people put cummins in,,but differant parts of country,the cummins is alott easier to get parts.bob

I'm with you Bob, but I'd rather see a Cat or Cummins before a Mercedes, Etc.

I think I'm with you Bob, Kinda like F150-F650 is a F series. I know a ch 612 is a single axle, so you're probably right.

I'm just curious, but whats the difference between a ch600 and ch613 if any?

Name: Mack ch613 (1999)

Date Added: 05 October 2008 - 12:48 PM

Owner: a5redwing

Short Description: None Provided

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