kfguy

Hi, hoping for some info regarding the cooling system on an 86' cs200 midliner... In front of the fuel filters , there is a metal" can" that is part of the cooling system.. on the metal pipe coming out of this ''canister'' there is a flexible hose section about 4 inches high that is used as a coupling union... it looks to be a piece of "radiator hose?" held on with 2 hose clamps.. I don't know what it is there for but it is starting to wear and crack and now antifreeze is beginning to leak... I am wondering what the best way is to replace this and what to use to replace it..{ 2-1/4'' radiator hose looks about right}.. am wondering how much coolant loss to expect {if not all?} and how to go about refilling cooling system and bleeding it properly.. any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

Thank you BBIGRIG.. Everything went like you said it would. Was a real pain and I hope nobody EVER has to replace one of these ..Very thankful for your help.

Thanks.. I'm assuming you mean the primer bulb mounted to the driver's side of the engine where the fuel lines go in..?

Thanks BBIGRIG--- I Did get the starter up and out through the doghouse panel...a complete nightmare, but done.. ordered correct starter and will install when I get it.. You were right , when i took filters off and unbolted the mounting bracket, quite a bit of fuel came out. Ialso had to disconnect the fuel line going into the secondary filter housing top in order to get enough extra "flex" in the filter housing assembly to be able to push the starter down and then up through the access panel.. I pretty sure both or at least the one removed fuel line is completely empty.. do you think this will cause a starting problem for lack of fuel in the lines?{ I will be sure to fill the new filters with fuel before I install them}.. If so , is there a way to prime the fuel system in the midliner?- Thank you for your replies!

Sorry bbigrig but 1 more question... could it be possible that the starter relay or something of that nature in the fuse panel is bad even though I am getting the starter solenoid to "click" when I attempt to start this thing? I was /am assuming that as long as I am hearing a click at the solenoid, it must be getting power and thus must be a bad starter? Thanks very much!

Thanks very much. i will post my results. I am assuming that going from the bottom and removing filters will give me more room to get wires off of solenoid..

Thanks very much. i will post my results. I am assuming that going from the bottom and removing filters will give me more room to get wires off of solenoid..

Sorry for a dumb question---im not a mechanic--just a handy mechanically inclined person ----but when i spin off the filters , will fuel flow out freely for a bit? Im assuming if truck is not running it couldn't be too much..? Also, when I am all done and replace filters into the housing do the fuel lines have to be purged or can i just spin filters back on and start truck right up? Thank you very much

Thanks, today i took that panel off[ indented with the anti-slip sticker}.. i can now see the starter more clearly and can access the top 2 bolts.. looks very tight and i dont know if there will be enough room to get it unbolted and clear the hard lines that are down there . also dont know if i will have enough slack in the solenoid wires to be able to pull it up and unwire it.. looks like it is more doable than from underneath, unless unbolting the fuel filter housing will create a path to pull it down ..at least i can reach the top hidden starter bolt from the top though... really not sure which way tom proceed.. looks like finding the filtyer housing bolt would be a nightmare as well...and im assuming removing fuel filters will have a lot of fuel leaking out?? thank you for any more help you can provide

thanks my cs200 is an early build oct.85 and vin # in low 300's . When i crawl under and look up the starter is directly above the 2 {fuel?} filters. IT is entirely possible these are oil filters as well.. can you tell me if i have to unbolt the housing, do i leave the filter installed into it and just drop it down? Also, where is the doghouse access panel located? this is a conventional, i thought the cabover MS series cabs flipped over to access the engine but since i dont have that option Im hoping the doghouse access you are referring to is some kind of floorboard panel i can open..? Would make life a lot easier..if i can get it out, starters are cheap so i would not even bother replacing the solenoid.. thanks for your much needed help

not sure if this is the right forum but... i need help figuring how to get the starter out of an 86 cs200 midliner.. seems like the oil filter assembly is directly under the unit and it cant be reached from the topside either? wondering if trouble is usually related to starter crapping out or a bad solenoid? thanks

anyone?

Hoping someone has had experience removing the starter on this beast.. space is very tight and am wondering how is best to get the starter out? It seems blocked by the 2 oil filters? directly below it...also wondering if it is worth replacing the solenoid first to see if that is the culprit? new batteries {probably could have used them anyway} and still just a clicking at the starter.. banged on starter with hammer and got a slight attempt at start but then nothing but a clicking from starter again.. kind of hard starting for last couple of weeks, leading up to today with no start and clicking noise? Thanks in advance for any advice

Yes, very ugly!.... yes, in 1987 they went to full air brakes.. I did locate a chamber on ebay with the help of the Euclid parts diagram{ thanks to that poster} and a lot of phone calls.. I hope the chamber itself is not specific to side though. It seemed like the diagram indicated that only the pedestal assembly was specific for right/left side.. Ihave my fingers crossed because finding one WAS finding a needle in a haystack!

Thanks for the help thusfar.. more digging today provided that the unit is not a standard 24/24 chamber.. The unit is a lockheed {england} chamber air/hydraulic.. mack part number is [old} =4103 5000 243 790.. NEW Mack number is 8511 5412.. however, these numbers dont correlate to any aftermarket part.. in fact, the numbers dont correlate to anything as a cross reference to lockheed.. Mack has a way of NOT wanting you to be able to easily find parts...