Elitedownunder

Hey Guys sorry its been so long but had to rebuild a C15 and put it back into my cab over Kenworth so I could keep working. Thanks JoJo and FJH but i had some time this weekend to go back to the 470 and as I was turning it over there was pitting from electrolysis showing so JOJO you were correct. They all need pulling and replacing but I think im going to get rid of the old girl and let someone else deal with the it. Thanks everyone once again.

UPDATE GUYS:    Still pushing so back to square one. I have another truck so I can continue to work. Once it’s sorted I will post again.

Heads are all good and being rebuilt.

I’m waiting for the heads to come back as sent them away again for magnafluxing.

Thanks MMP

1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

A bit late to this, missed up till now

Last year I had a similar on another make and model, would only pressurize after it was warm and only when I backed off to idle after running 

Thought it was pretty much everything that has been mentioned here and tried most of the same 

Turned out be none of it, it was the heater tap, I  could pressurize the cooling system and it never leaked when hot or cold

I think the seal around the heater tap shaft was letting air in as the water must of been under a slight vacuum while slowing down to idle at say a inter section

This big gulp of air then got a bit trapped around the temp sender (making the sender sit in steam and reading over heating) before moving to the radiator and expanding forcing the coolant out and over flowing 

 

I never had enough brains to work all this out, lucky for me that some one younger and better thinking than me told me about such a problem 

Dunno if this is any help or not

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, mine has another tap just out of the block which I turned off.

41 minutes ago, br549 said:

bolt sleeves down and roll pistons down to lowest point and check for a for a pit hole that will catch with a pin in the sleeve,  also what is the model CX___ and the last 6 of the VIN

CX.  712059.          

15 hours ago, fjh said:

If you measured  where Joe said to measure there you WANT to See 24 or better for a 470 hp engine Just sayin! You can MAYBE get away with less on a lower HP engine but not highly recommended  ! And 002 thou definitely wont cut it! .002 between liners is OK under the same head As long as the lowest is 24  or better!

ALSO note !  Have you pulled the injectors? Were there any with carbon on the bottom of the bore where they seal ? We have ran across them where the injector COULD NOT be removed from the head  even with a porta power they were so clogged with carbon! And there are instances where the compression can get by the injector sleeve ! Seen it happen.

 

Just sayin

0024” the lowest on a head and 0028” the highest on the other head though 002” between liners. But yes there is a injector with a heavy carbon build up I haven’t seen before though came out with minimum fuss, but this wouldn’t create a pressure build up through the water galleries though.

Liner protrusion is all good with .002 across all and heads are fine ….except for pulled inlet valves. So next anyone.

No cracks in the heads via dye test…..though 2 X inlet valves are pulled…where do measure liners with a slide guage ? Up on the very top of where the fire rings sit?

Thanks FJH

Thanks Vmac3 …….and I’ve now removed the heads and they look ok so now I will magnaflux before going any further…I have inadvertently chipped a couple of the liners removing the heads but the fire rings cover it so what do you guys think? 

Joey, yes, same result with comp bypassed….so will pull heads or tomorrow and let you know. Thanks mate

Ok Joey tried your trick and yes I brought it up to 180F and only then it was producing large bubbles every few seconds but I didn’t bypass the compressor because I didn’t have a hose so will try again tomorrow with comp bypassed. 
The comp head is a reconditioned I put on the other week so I think I’m shit out of luck. 
what odds have with you guys being 1. Head gasket. 2. Dropped liner ? 

Thanks guys and Joey yes your right of course no belt no movement so will try this today.

FJH and Mackpro this is a Etech on a CX Vision so only has a single thermostat no EGR and pancake oil cooler.

On 9/2/2021 at 11:03 AM, Joey Mack said:

Yes....  I was taught this procedure years ago by a 65 year old grumpy, MF'r....   Take the belt off the engine, by-pass the water lines for the air compressor, pull the top radiator pipe off, remove the thermostat, and put the housing back on, leave the short hose on top of the thermostat housing, fill the cooling system til' the water is at the top of the thermo housung,... which leaves 4-6 inches of hose sticking up off of the thermo housing , which will give room to watch the water perculate, like a coffee pot, pretty quickly if there is a head/gasket issue....you can let it run for 30 minutes or more at idle without overheating it. and just watch for bubbles in the top rad. hose... compression leaks will show up early.. i did chase a series 60 detroit that took a long run time before proving there was a head issue. I diagnosed it, but did not repair it... anyway,  Good luck..... jojo

Joey was going to do this but thought you couldn’t keep coolant in it since the top radiator hose was gone and expelling it all. I don’t know how you did it. 
Anyway it’s still doing it and I’m out of ideas so I put a manual override switch for the Horton in which I hope should do the trick until the problem becomes worse and raises it head but I’m not pulling it down if they’re is nothing internal showing. Will keep you updated guys.

Thanks guys I’ll give it a try Joey.

Yeah it is still pushing, so the lip should face the cabin not the fan? 

Thanks mate

Thanks JoJo, but upon reading the SB it’s for non etech this is mainly for the ASET and EGR with twin Thermostat…mine is definitely a 10 psi.

10 PSI …. Was thinking when I started her up the coolant sensor would come on and then go off after a couple minutes of driving then a week or two after it stayed on and this is when it started pressurising. 

Ok, so I top the coolant this morning with a couple of litres and drove my b double trailers empty for around an hour an sat on 80 C until you slow down or stop then it pours out the overflow 2 to 3 litres of coolant which had me wondering. So I went and purchased a thermal gun and after running it it showed me radiator at around 85/90 top and bottom the compressor around the same until I came to the thermostat housing and it showing me the front @ 90 the bottom rad hose at 85 and top hose at 50. So I’m thinking I’ve been sold the wrong thermostat. Another thing is which way should the seal face in the housing ? What say you guys? 

Yep Australia.

Replaced compressor head and serpentine belt but still pushing when at temp and stopped, so I’ve left it with a quarter of coolant in reservoir and is not pushing anymore. So tomorrow I’ll check level cold then take it for another run and if it’s not pushing I’m happy but the real test will be when the 44 tonne payload is put on.

I have an extended Mack Bendix Tu Flo 750, so what in the compressor needs replacing or what causes the compressor to push the coolant back?