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bobgarvey

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Posts posted by bobgarvey

  1. I have 2 Mack B30's I have done a lot of prep to get them running but can't find a good way to turn back and forth with lubricant. I have put penetrating oil in the cylinders, let is sit for week or so, tried to turn the engine with a breaker bar on the front bolt (can only turn in one direction), tried the starter, tried to pull with another truck (the clutch slipped).

    I would appreciate any help. I am thinking about filling the cylinders with kerosene and / or penetrating oil, then letting sit again, them try to turn over.

  2. Bob,

    Most of B Models with Hydraulic Brakes I have seen, have a round access panel under the drivers seat about 4" in diameter, with a single screw holding it so you can swing the access panel out of the way to check and refill the fluid level in the master cylinder. Is it possible that someone replaced the floor panel and forgot about the access panel? This would be an easy modification to make it similar to the factory access panel if needed.

    If you need hydraulic brake repairs, most of the hydraulic parts are no longer available thru Mack or Napa, I had mine rebulit with brass sleeves by Whitepost for about the same cost as a new master cylinder but the Whitepost rebuild is guarantted for the life of the vehicle- so made more sense to go with Whitepost than a new NAPA master cylinder.

    Hope you get this one back on the road for the season,

    Firemack

    Thanks for the info. I have 3 similar trucks and will check out the other 2 to see if they have the access panel. If so I will know the position, size etc. and can do the fabrication you suggest. If not I can measure and do the same.

  3. I have B-Model dump trucks with 6cyl gas engines. I need to rework the master brake cylinder and find it in a very cumbersome location. Is there something I am missing about getting to it? It seems like the only way to make it really accessible would be to take the floor pan out and that does not seem reasonable. The reservoir fill appears to be from the top, but I don't see an access panel. The manuals don't supply info on how to check or fill.

  4. Never did see them in person,but I was told about them.Sounds like they went to a good home.Are they consecutive serial numbers?

    Not consecutive serials, 2 are very close, don't have the info with me as I write. 2 are B30X's one a B30P. Mack museum had the build sheets on them; dual reduction rear axles. Thanks for writing.

  5. Sounds like you covered some ground. Did you see any of our Bs?

    I saw one pulling a double (pretty common there) in Melbourne down by the beach. It had that nice rack on the front like yours.

    On a somewhat unrelated topic: I received a wonderful packet from Mack Museum yesterday in response to a request for manuals etc. WOW a service manual, owners manual, records of when the chassis was put together and more .... Valuable documentation!! It will make things much easier to get these babies back on the road.

    Thanks for staying in touch.

  6. Bob, is that your truck in your Avatar? I've a big soft spot for dumpers!

    Was going to say check radiator if you were planning on running her for an extended period but saw you were pressurising and checking for leaks so I'll just shut up!

    Good luck with it, let us know how it goes.

    The picture is one of the trucks I bought, but the picture was taken in 1961. I bought 3 at one time, all B30 dumps. One is rougher than the other 2 but all have good metal. They went out of service around 1964. I plan to clean one up first and use it, not restore, but keep original so if I do restore later it will be in good shape. If I have time I will clean up and protect the other 2. Thinking of body work, paint, windows and seals in good shape.

    Did I see you are from Australia? Just got back from a vacation there. Wonderful!

  7. Remove and replace fan belts. While the belt(s) are off, turn by hand your water pump, generator, idlers, and check for play, looseness, roughness of bearings, seals.

    When you remove the carburator, make sure there are no wasp nest, dirt dobber buildups, etc. below the base. If your air filter has been left off for an extended period of time or have no muffler and a short exhaust pipe, dirt dobbers will travel and build.

    I helped my father in law work on an old 1930's International 4 cyl. gas saw mill motor that had set up for years. It was an overhead valve engine and I took the head off to find dirt dobbers had built in the intake and exhaust ports and even through one cylinder where a valve was open!

    Thanks! I thought of the belts after I wrote but all the items you mentioned are very important.

  8. I am about to get a 1956 B30X Dump, Maxidyne 6 cyl gas 331, 5 speed transmission, standard cab running after 40+ years.

    I am looking for advice on what to inspect, clean, rebuild before I try to start her.

    My thoughts are to: pull plugs, put some light oil in the cylinders, hand turn the engine (later), inspect the points, clean the gas tank, clean gas lines, add fuel filter, inspect and test thermostat, replace oil filter cartridge, and clean cartridge container, replace engine oil, remove / clean / test carb., clean air filter and service, replace transmission fluid, grease fittings, oil cables and get them moving or replace, replace coolant, pressurize and check for leaks, new battery. Then hand turn crank a few turns. If it turn then try ignition and starter.

    What am I missing?

  9. Here is their address and phone number.

    I was very pleased with the information they sent me on my B-42S, i.e. copy of original order sheets with all options, delivery info, and a customized abbreviated shop manual and owner's manual.

    A great resource.

    The Mack Trucks Historical Museum

    Don Schumaker, Curator

    997 Postal Road

    Allentown, PA 18103

    Telephone: 610-266-6767

    Fax: 610-266-6823

    David

    Thanks much!

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