dondiesel444

1993, E7 350 full mechanical, 8LL, 18k front, 44k rears, 20k lift axle, 17' body, clean double frame, new rear brakes, auto slack adjusters, new torque arms, new driveshaft, repacked dump hoist, just serviced, 11R24.5 tires all around, 4 new tires on back axle, pintal hitch, only 268,000 miles, 235" wheelbase, empty weight around 26,000 lbs. $ 39,000 obo. call/text me if interested and for more pics 607-437-4515 located in Andes, NY, please call or text I'll get the message faster than if you reply on here.  thanks

ok I'll try that first, hopefully it solves the problem, thanks

it looks original!  so is it possible that's where the leak is coming from?  somehow the boost pressure is feeding back through the compressor supply line or something?

1993 E7 350 full mechanical.....anyone ever hear of this?  not a constant leak but when pulling a hill, boost will drop in half, engine will loose all power, and a massive air leak can be heard right behind the cab, where the air dryer is.  after downshifting, boost comes back, no air leaking, then a few seconds later, same thing....might be happening when the dryer is calling the compressor to build air?  pretty sure it's an AD9 dryer...

On 4/10/2017 at 7:21 PM, polracer01 said:

Don do you have an rd for sale?

possibly.  give me a text or call 607-437-4515

did you ever find a truck??  text me 607-437-4515 if not

sorry the pic is so BIG!!  but here's the visor I had on my CL, sold the truck but the visor was awesome, really made the truck stand out

I have a used viscous fan clutch from my 2001 E-7 ETECH.  It was replaced thinking it was causing an overheating problem, but the problem turned out to be the radiator.  The new clutch cost just under $1000 from Cook Bros. Mack.  I sold my Mack and rarely check this site anymore so of you are interested please email me dgconst444@yahoo.com 

that is a total insult to the Superliner heritage to put the Superliner name on such an ugly truck.

I am selling my 2001 CL713 factory tri-axle dump truck. I don't check here often so call or text me and I can send you some pics. 607-437-4515 the truck is located in New York. here is a link to my Craigslist ad...

http://albany.craigslist.org/hvo/5239015962.html

yes they seem to have a lot of Macks for sale, and their prices seem pretty high. most look freshly painted and many of the dumps are tractor conversions. not to say they sell bad trucks but try and work on the prices if u can

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any way to test the injectors just to make sure they are working properly?

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thanks yeah I checked them out, their prices on visors are very, very high. Iowa 80 has the best price on visors, but shipping is expensive. I've checked out a few of the other online chrome shops, I thought maybe someone had some parts laying around, a visor I'm sure I'll have to buy a new one but anything else used I'd be very interested in!

anyone have any spare dress up parts for my CL 713? Like a drop visor, under the door light panel, etc? I know they don't make a whole lot of chrome for these trucks. Thanks!

do you have a link to those instructions?

did u install 6 new ones? or just check the old ones?

I have 315's on 9" wheels on my steerable lift axle. the truck originally had 11r22.5's on regular 8.25's but I happened to come across a set of used 9" wide ones at a junkyard so I bought them. however, when one of the wheels developed a crack and I needed a replacement, I couldn't find another used 9" wide wheel anywhere, I called junkyards all over. so I had to buy a new one, aluminum accuride. 8.25's are a dime a dozen but good luck finding a used 9"!

I've seen guys run 315's on 8.25's on their front axles before! on the tag that might be ok but I wouldn't do it on a steer axle.

oh my 9" wheels look just like regular 8.25 dual wheels, but they are much thicker. they do make 9" wide flat face wheels, they look more like a 11 or 12" wide wheel that a 385 or 425 would go on.

I am thinking of swapping a T310m in place of my T2110B if it ever has any issues, but I have heard both good and bad about the T310m. Do the 3 series shift any better than the 2 series? I am still trying to find out if a 3 series like the T310m would be a direct bolt in, size, clutch, drive shaft etc. I'd really like a Eaton 18 speed but am scarred of the complexity of the swap...

how do you tell if you have just and ETECH or a CCRS or ASET?

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does something like this exist for the T3 series transmissions?