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sodly

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Posts posted by sodly

  1. Thanks guys, especially AZb755v8.  This is helpful stuff.  Yikes!  So you say about $7k-ish for new wheels and rubber?  And an equal amount for frame blasting/painting?  This definitely isn't a poor man's hobby, is it?  It amazes me when I go to truck shows and see how many guys have "toy" trucks that don't do anything but go to shows.  Many have more than one!  And then to haul or drive those trucks long distances to shows!  Yowza, that some serious coin!  More power to ya!  Hope to join the fun some day.  I realize it helps a lot if you're already involved in trucking somehow and have access to the equipment to be able to mess around with big toys.  Unfortunately, I don't have that "excuse" to have an old truck.     

     

    If anyone else has additional feedback on their experience with buying or refurbishing their hobby truck I'd love to hear about it.  I'm sure some of you have been in my shoes before.  

  2. I've been a fan of the old truck hobby for decades but generally only as a spectator.  I've always hoped to one day get in on the action so I'm now hunting for a hobby truck of my own, preferably a Superliner.  Over the years I've collected a few antique pickups but never personally owned a "big" truck of my own.  I'm not in the trucking business like many of you but I have driven big trucks off and on over the years and have a life-long passion for them (esp. Superliners!).  As I look at trucks for sale I find that most of the ones in my price range need some "sprucing up."  I'm trying to get a handle on what it might cost to have some of this refurbishing work done since I don't really have a clue.  I'm sure many of you have tackled these kinds of projects before.  Can anyone give me ballpark costs for some of the tasks below?  I'd just like to have a general idea of how much $$ I need to allow for these things as I plan my "toy budget."  

    *  Professionally polish all the aluminum on a tractor-- 6 (or should you just do all 10) wheels, 2 large fuel tanks, battery boxes and air tanks.  Do polishers do stacks, grilles and mirrors, too, even though they're not necessarily aluminum?

    *  Sandblast and re-paint a frame.  I know that's a loaded one.  I'm talking about doing a pretty thorough job-- removing all the wheels, fuel tanks, air tanks, battery boxes (or somehow covering them).  Then covering the cab and engine so the entire length of the rails could be primed/painted uniformly from end to end.  I don't know how else you could paint a frame without it looking half-assed (like just doing from the back of the cab to the end of the frame).  Of course, the frame behind the cab would have to be done inside and out, including the rear axles and suspension.  A big project!      

    *  Install new air lines and other rubber/plastic that might be degraded from time.  

    *  New tires-- what kind of money does it take these days to put a nice, new set of 10 matched American-branded tall tires (say 11Rx24.5s) on a tractor?  Include mounting, please.  

    Thanks, guys!  

  3. Interesting.  I was thinking the E6-350 didn't come in Maxidyne flavor but wasn't sure.  Yes, this emblem had studs through the hood.  Wonder if someone just changed out the Econodyne emblem for a Maxidyne one.  The whole thing just didn't seem right to me for some reason.  

    So can anyone tell if this engine is an Econodyne version or not?  Refresh my memory.... Econodyne had a lower RPM range than the standard engines?  

  4. I looked at an RW2 the other day with an E6-350 engine and a Maxitorque 9 speed.  This was a supposedly-unmolested, original 300k mile truck.  On the drivers side of the hood it had a Maxidyne emblem.  The passenger side was not drilled for an additional emblem.  I didn't think Mack put 9 speeds behind Maxidyne engines.  True?  See engine tag photo.  Something didn't seem quite right to me.  Perhaps the hood has been changed?

    By the way, did they put the Maxidyne and Econodyne emblems on both sides of the RW2 hood.... or only the drivers side?  Thanks!

    IMG_6935.thumb.JPG.48e8c157d9c037e59d29f8fda037234c.JPG

  5. On 4/17/2018 at 8:37 AM, j hancock said:

    I am sorry my post answering this question with a full explanation was not understood.

    So. let's see if this will work

    612- lighter chassis, Mack brand engine (six or eight cylinder), single axle suspension.

    613- lighter chassis, Mack brand engine, tandem suspension

    632 light chassis, Cummins brand engine, single suspension

    633 light chassis, Cummins, tandem

    643 light chassis, Detroit engine, tandem

    etc.

    1 is Mack, 3 is Cummins, 4 Detroit 5 CAT        FOURTH DIGIT

    2 single axle, 3 tandem                                        FIFTH DIGIT

    This system started with the MH Ultraliner (1980) than Super than Mack CH and CL  etc.

    Hayward RWs used the old engine code system.  The new system identifies the ENGINE BRAND not a specific model of engine.

     

     

    Aaaah... the light is coming on now!  Thanks, j. hancock!

  6. Are loose R model doors very easily rebuilt or tightened up?  I've seen some trucks that the door just shakes in its frame as you drive down the road.  I didn't know how hard it was to remove this slop in the hinges and/or related assemblies.  That is one thing I like about old Pete's with their piano hinged doors... they do seem to be less prone to slop.  Any thoughts?  Thanks!

  7. So what's the story behind Joseph Equipment?  He always has cool stuff for sale with no prices.  Then when you call or email asking for more info and photos you get no response (even when he says he will send the stuff).  I'm stumped.  If he is a collector, does anyone have photos of his collection?  Would love to see his "keepers" if this is the stuff he's letting go of.  

  8. I'm wondering if anyone knows which engine would be best for MPG in a hobby truck that will be lightly loaded 99% of the time (maybe hauling a couple of antique pickups on a drop deck trailer or a fifth wheel RV or similar).  Not looking to haul 80,000 lbs on a regular basis, if ever.  Logically, I would think an E6 would return the best fuel economy pulling light loads but you often hear people say that large-displacement, lightly-stressed engines actually outperform the small-displacement engines for economy-- although I'm assuming that's pulling full-gross loads. 

    Does anyone have any experience with these motors pulling lighter loads like a hobby truck typically would?  I've always thought an E6 would make a lot of sense in a hobby truck but I want to make sure I'm not missing something.  Thanks for your input!  

  9. I never thought of the RB as a very popular model which is why it seems an odd choice for a last R model.  In fact, I don't really recall seeing any RBs until they quit building R models.  Then I started seeing some around.  Did their production run overlap with the regular R models much?  Or were they a late addition to the R lineup?  

  10. If memory serves, the RB was the longest-lived R model.  I'm not sure what year production ended but it was several after the regular R model ended.  I've always wondered why this was.  Is it simply because it was a set-back front axle model and Mack didn't have another one in the line up at that time?  Or what was it about the RB that convinced Mack to keep it around so long?  I rarely see them here in the Midwest.  Was the RB a heavier-framed version of the R like an RD?  Or was it light-framed like a normal R?  Inquiring minds want to know?  :D

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