Warpman89

If you have one you are getting rid of and near Chicago area let me know please

this is the shift pattern so it must be a t2060a, is this a good transmission? It's the first I've seen like it

Hello, I am looking at a clean 98 CH daycab for sale with Mack single stick 6 speed transmission, no air shift. Does anyone know what model transmission this would be? Also, what ratios would this transmission have? It has 4.17 rears and I would like to know if this thing will run highway speeds without crazy high RPMS.

You are looking at a 2013 Mack MP8 diesel engine with 445 HP. This engine is model MP8 445E, serial number 999744 and engine family CUPTH12.8S01. This engine has 175,000 miles on it and runs well. This truck was equipped with the Mack Maxitorque automatic transmission, 45,000 pound rears with 355 gear ratio all of which are available at an extra charge. THIS ENGINE IS OUT OF THE TRUCK AND READY TO BE shipped. We are parting this truck out

Price for the engine is $9000

You can make offer for the rest of the parts.

You are looking at a 2013 Mack MP8 diesel engine with 445 HP. This engine is model MP8 445E, serial number 999744 and engine family CUPTH12.8S01. This engine runs well. This truck was equipped with the Mack Maxitorque automatic transmission, THIS ENGINE IS OUT OF THE TRUCK AND READY TO BE shipped. I am We are parting this truck out.

This engine comes complete with the turbocharger and has a 90 day parts only warranty. 

Asking for $9700 shipped for engine only 

Price USD:        Asking for $4700 shipped 
Make:                MACK AI-350         
Model:               NON-EGR MODEL
Year:                 2004  
Serial#:             4J2532                          
Description: (USED) 2004 MACK AI-350 DIESEL ENGINE  FOR SALE, SERIAL# 4J2532, STOCK# 003318, TEST RUN 5-16-2017 RUNS PERFECT!! The engine comes tested with a 30 day warranty on the block and crank.

Thanks 

Thanks stork

Do you or does anyone else here have an exploded diagram of the shift cylinders? Now that you mention it has all the symptoms of a missing or slipped o-ring

Gentlemen, I have a problem. I have the trtxl1070b 12 speed and lately I have had trouble getting it into reverse and sometimes high range, both of which are shifted by air as you well know. Furthermore, when the High-Direct-Neutral-Reverse control valve/knob is in direct, I have a lot of air coming out of the exhaust line that comes off of the knob. When I had trouble shifting into reverse in the past, I would roll forward at a low speed and air shift into reverse, but now I am no longer able to even do this. Do this sound like the knob needs to be rebuilt or what? The transmission is a rebuilt unit which was installed about one and a half years ago. Everything worked fine after installation. I ordered a knob rebuild kit from Mack today. They had two available, the "major" kit and the "minor" kit. I got the minor kit because it was about $100 cheaper, though it probably not as complete. Any help on what the problem might be or advice on how to install this kit would be very helpful and appreciated.

thanks guys, i figured it was residue

merry christmas

I have oil in my air system, it has been a problem for a few years now. The truck did not see much use so it was not a big issue and there were no safety issues. However, it was not uncommon for a decent amount of oil to come out of the air tank if it was drained. Also, the air dryer pressure regulator would spit out a nice circle of oil spray every time it would exhaust. So, about 6 months ago I replaced both the air compressor and air dryer. There is now very little oil when I drain the air tank, but still some. The air dryer still spits out a little oil, but less than before. The "new" air compressor was a rebuilt unit from Mack and works like it should. The new air dryer is brand new. So, what is the deal here? Is a little oil common for a 20 year old truck? Is the oil I'm seeing just "residue" from years of having oil going into the air system? Any help is appreciated

OK Dragon Im prolly gonna get torched for this post but here is what I did.... My 88 E6 350 RD tri-axle went fom being the best running but most under powered 350 Ive ever owned or drivin to running like a scalded dog and still have the EGT's in check.... Pull the return line off your Ambac and then the brass fitting off the pump, there will be a small spring that sits in a small cup, find 3 small washers that will fit in that cup drop the spring back in and slam it back together.... My pressure went from 17lbs at idle to 28lbs.... I popped the top cover off my Ambac and slid the rack stop all the way forward, loosened the 3/16 screw on the ramp slot and slid the ramp all the way down to now get FULL rack travel.... Also changed the air cleaner in the process.... I went from a max of 16lbs boost to 24lbs and that is with some damaged fins in the compressor side od the turbo ! Yesterday I also adjusted the valves which were WAY out of spec and pressurized the system for boost leak test, hoping I gain even more as I have not driven it yet since yesterdays work.... Holy shit this truck came to life way more than I expected freakin actually fun to drive again !!!

Hey man i have an 88 also with the same engine and pump combo, so you caught my interest when you said your boost went from 16 to 24

if you have some pictures of this modification so i can better understand the procedure, i would greatly appreciate it

keep on truckin!

yup, she's almost all back together now and all the air lines are back where they belong

thanks to all replies

I've got the book right in front of me. Is it a TRTXL107 or a TRTXL1070 ? I'm not any good at sending this stuff on computer but I'll see if I can get my brother to scan it and post it for you in a little bit.

TRTXL1070B

Not having any luck posting the schematics for you but I followed your drawing and it matches my schematic in the book for the TRTXL1070 and the E on the shift knob is always the exhaust port on all 12 speeds I hope it works, I'm sorry I wasn't able to post the schematics I have for you .

Thank You! I am still unsure of one port on the top of the transmission part. On my diagram, I labeled it "5", although it had no number. It is actually part of the number "4" port. Do you have any idea what this is for and more importantly where it goes?

Here's what i am talking about in the second paragraph:

This is the bottom of the shifter knob, the numbers and letters are somewhat visible, 1,2,3,4, "S", and "E"

This is the air shifter that goes on top of the tranny, it has 5 air line connections going to it, 4 of which are numbered

This is a diagram i made up, which links 1-4 on the tranny with 1-4 on the shifter knob, "S" on the shifter knob is already connected, leaving "E" without a destination.

Does anyone know where "E" goes? and where does the extra connecter on the tranny labeled "4" go? any help would be greatly appreciated

By the way, the weird shape at the bottol of my diagram is supposed to be the top of the tranny shifter, as it appears in the picture above it

Gentlemen, i am in a pickle. In the the process of installing a rebuilt 12 speed in my r688 tractor, my "professional" mechanic cut and disconnected all of the air lines that go to the air shifter on the transmission. Thankfully, i marked on the end by the shifter handle, but the ends that connect to the tranny are not marked, so i am not sure where they go exactly. I am writing this with the hope that someone somewhere has a diagram of air lines for such a truck, God willing. My Mack dealership had nothing, so i am turing to the experts on this forum for help. Any help or leads will be greatly appreciated.

On a side note, through thorough cleaning, i have found that the bottom of the shifter knob/selector has numbers and letters for each air line and the same numbers are on the transmission. However, on the shifter selector knob, there is an "E" for one of the air lines, which has thrown me off. Otherwise, the 1-4 on the knob matches up with a 1-4 on the tranny, which im hoping is a light at the end of the tunnel. I hope there is someone on this forum that knows what i am talking about. If this doesnt make sense i can get pics

hey guys, if any of you you recall from my other thread, i mentioned that my 12 speed was having issues. well, the decision has been made to pull it out and have it rebuilt. i will be doing the removal and installation myself, so i am writing this to get some advice and tricks of the trade for this undertaking. i noticed that the engine and tranny are held in by three mounts; one in the front center of the engine and two on either side of the bell housing. can i pull the tranny and leave the bellhousing on the engine? seems like that would help me avoid what could be a big job. also, while the tranny is out the clutch will be changed, so does the bellhousing have to come off for that or not necessarily?

any advice will be greatly appreciated

-UPDATE-

Started using it today but now when i shift to High on any gear, there is a loud "whining", and sometimes when i would put it back in Direct, the whining continued. if i shift to High while stopped and go through all the gears in High, skipping Direct, there is no whining, so im thinking that maybe the air shifter is not functioning properly. this loud whining only happens when i shift while moving so im thinking it just isnt shifting fast enough. all bellhousing bolts and tranny mounts are tight. driving in Direct only without splitting works but limits my top speed

so, how can i test the air shifter mechanism?

and, what would it cost to have the back half of my tranny rebuilt?

here's some picks i found

http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/brian_dhamer05.htm

Anyone hear about this? I am interested to know who bought it and how much, and anything else that anyone knows about that beast

I've driven past their place in Hampshire, IL for years and that big Euclid heavy hauler has always been sitting in the same place, so this comes as a surprise for me. i just hope its not going for scrap

thanks for the suggestions, i think i will check for the tightness of the tranny mounts and the bellhousing before i start opening stuff up, and if i still cant figure it out, i'll give Rob a call as a last resort...

Service Hint!

You can pull the large pto cover on the side of the rear section and watch the spliter work from there by having someone operate the switch while you look in the pto opening!

I will have to give that a try. To make myself more clear, when i say "popping out of gear", i mean the shifter lever is literally moving out of gear into neutral in 4H and 5H. In 4H, when i split from direct to high and reapply the accelerator, if i don't physically hold the shifter in 4th it will start popping out, and even when i hold it in gear, it takes a little muscle to hold it in gear. 5th gear is similar, except it only happens when i am coasting, not under acceleration. 4th and 5th gear work fine in Direct, it is only when they are in High that this problem is occurring, so i am not sure if it a problem in the main box or the splitter box, or both...

Naw, I don't think it has much to do with the proximity to myself but I would put stock in wear of the shift forks, rails, and poppets. Of course this would be a great time to rebuild the air cylinders, and ensure the operating pressures from the output of the regulators is where it should be.

Rob

well, where do you think i should start? would you agree that there is nothing wrong with the main box? the issue must be something to do with the splitter, right?

or is it the opposite, is the problem in the main box? it just occured to me that 4th and 5th are probably shifted by the same fork, however, like i mentioned before, the popping out only occurs in High range split...

hey guys, i got an 88 r688st with the trtxl1070b 12 speed, and lately it has been popping out of gear. it happens in 4H under a load while accelerating and in 5H while coasting. It does not happen in any other gear or in direct range in 4th or 5th, only 4th High and 5th High. Whats the deal here? Its got about 375000 untouched miles, so is it just getting old or what? thanks

i'm curious, what's a new or reman compressor cost?