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boyd

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Posts posted by boyd

  1. if i am thinking rite, on this year model we had same issues and there is a spring in the top of oil pump that acts as a regulator for oil pressure. seems they where weak and i believe we put a heavier spring in it to help the oil pressure jump 10 to 12 lbs. but again that has been 10+ years. but i am sure that is what i did.

  2. I was thinking they where a little newer,, these are 1980 models... phone number 270-993-7145.. they look clean and straight to me. if you go to craigslist owensboro kentucky then to the heavy equipment section.. sorry but im not smart enough to forward the info and pictures over here..

  3. before you throw money at replacing the #3 EUP ,, i would swap holes. like swap number 3 EUP with #4 EUP and see if your code moves to the hole number #4. this will confirm it is not a wiring issue instead of EUP...

  4. the problem is, after time, the compressors start pumping some oil throughout the air system, when this happens this sludge sits in lines valves and all and causes issues like this. drain air tanks and see if you have oil and water coming out or just water. when you warm your truck up it makes the sludge free up where it will actually let air pass by. if oil in air system i would suggest air compressor, and if water make sure you have your air dryer hooked up, they generally ran AD-9 part number 065225 bendix air dryers on them, you may need to replace.

  5. if you have another unit, that is close in specs. you can just plug that ecm in to your wiring harness to see if it fires then. then you will know if your shorted your ecm out. i wouldnt run with the temp ecm, because it could cause damage if the parameters are not set rite. but you can at least see if that is the issue. or your local mack dealer may have one you can borrow just to see if this is the case..

  6. If you can get it loaded, pull forwards and backwards 25-30 yards and then measure from center of steer to center of each drive axle, with unit on the ground do not jack up... the pulling forwards and backwards should get it in the normal running position with the exception of the movement it will have while gassing on it with rubber on the road. see what your measurements are and let me know. what you dont want is one side being spot on and the other side being off 1/4 or so off. this will cause irregular tire wear, and also the driver will have to fight the wheel all day. i do adjust my parameter for the alignment on my trucks according to the average MPH the truck runs, because it takes different dynamics for lower MPH trucks. Hope this helps

  7. This is a 2007 Mack CX Cab in perfect condition Red in color. I will include the doors and stainless visor... This truck was not wrecked. Just parting out. I can send pics upon request. This is fully dressed cab, not just shell. Not a dent or scratch in cab or doors. $6500..

  8. I believe on this model it is still going to be screwed into the engine bell, you will see a pigtail plug going to it, if you unplug the plug you can screw the sensor out of the engine bell. when you remove clean the magnet and screw back in. look at the wiring where it goes into the sensor to see if look freyed or broken. this sensor will look identical to the speedo sensor which is located on the output of the transmission, and on some models was even the same part number. the flywheel serves as the toning ring for this sensor. a year or so after this they moved this sensor to the face of the engine bell rather than on the outside diameter of the engine bell. hope this helps..

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