rubar

The problem with the ABS and traction control was the fuse. The fuse box cover and the fuse were under the seat. Thanks for the heads up. I guess they just forgot to put it back.

Thanks Wheeler. I hate that about the engine hours. I was hoping they would be able to put it back. I can see 4.9 hours for the valve adjustment. $650 seems a little high for that. That's more than $130 an hour. Hopefully they'll call me back Monday and I can get it back in and fixed pretty quick.

Sorry for not posting sooner. Truck went back together very well. Valve adjustment procedure was a little confusing at first, but I got it done and it ran great. I am very disappointed in my Mack dealer though. The truck came from a large fleet and had a 65 mph speed limit. I was also second guessing myself about the valve adjustment so I decided to take it in and get them to increase the road speed and adjust the overhead. I also asked the service adviser if the HP could be verified and increased and he said there was nothing they could do. I have taken a few of my other trucks to them in the past and have had no trouble. This time they kept my truck almost 3 weeks to run the overhead and to increase the road speed. They said they were about a week behind, but they should be able to work me in since it was a simple job. After a week I started calling them every day and I got the same response. They kept telling me they were almost done and to call back that afternoon and in the afternoon they would tell me to call back the next morning. I finally told them to put back together whatever they had apart and I would come get it. When I got to the shop to pick it up, they said it was done. They charged me $100 to check the fan clutch (didn't do anything, just verified that it worked), $650 to run the overhead, and another $650 to increase the road speed. I was upset to put it mildly. It was late on Friday afternoon when I picked it up. All the important people were gone from the dealership. I called and left messages with the service manager as well as the branch manager, but haven't heard back yet. Not only do i think the prices are a little high, but they screwed up my engine hours, the ABS and traction control no longer work, and the speedometer is way off. The work was done by Tri State truck center in Jackson, MS. Does anyone know if there is a main customer service number I can call and get some help? Can the hours be set back correct? Sorry for the long post. I appreciate any help.

This is the first one I've had that has powerleash on it. Looks pretty simple. Do they work as good as a Jacobs? What's different about the valve adjustment?

Thanks. I found a bolt to fit it today and I welded up an end to screw it on my small slide hammer. I think the bolt was a 5/16-24. They all came out pretty easy.

Got everything apart and it's looking good. Cam was a pain to get out. Several of the lifters had the rollers broken and had turned in such a way that it was difficult to get them back up in their bores. I'm going to go ahead and put rings and bearings in it while its apart. What's the best way to get the injectors out. I've read there is a tool for pulling them, but I haven't been able to find it. If there is not a tool, then what size bolt do I need to screw into the top of the injector? Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks for the info. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't need to change anything else while the engine was apart. I may not go any higher on the HP, but I didn't want to have to go back in for something simple since I am already there. I didn't realize that these engines were internally the same. Would all pieces of the puzzle have to be done at the same time? Could I go ahead and put the injectors in now while I have it apart and then later change the turbo and do the download? Got any part numbers for the turbo and injectors? One other question, while tearing the engine down I noticed a couple of bent pushrods. I'm sure this is from the engine and cam being out of sync before the engine quit. I don't see anything wrong with the valvetrain. Should I go ahead and pull the heads and check for bent valves, or do you think it would be OK to go ahead and reassemble everything? Thanks again for any help.

I have an 07 CXN613. I have what I understand is a AC 355/380 engine. It seems a little underpowered, but other than that it is fine. It appears that the cam retaining bolts backed out. This allowed the cam to walk forward and let the lobes rub against the journals. I'm preparing to replace the cam and lifters, crank gear and idler gear. Doesn't seem to be too bad of a job. I would like to know if I need to change any other parts while I am in there. I would like to make a little more power. I have read on here that there are different cam keys and other different parts. While it's apart I'd like to go ahead and change whatever I need to so I can increase power. Any advice and part numbers would be greatly appreciated.