firenut

In the attached pictures I have these hairline cracks in both front brake drums.  They are still smooth, but regardless have the cracks.. is this critical or are they okay to continue to use?  The truck is an antique and is driven about 10-15 times yearly.

Thanks!  How do you back it off?  Is there a bolt or??

52 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

That is stop master wedge brakes and the adjuster is behind a slot in the baking plate just like your older cars had.I have worked on them many times and always you have to back the adjuster off and chances are its frozen up and will not move.

On 9/11/2021 at 6:30 AM, MACKS said:

There is an adjusting bolt on the slack adjuster,wire brush it off first,there is a collar around the bolt you need to push down with your wrench and turn it counter clockwise about two full turns or more..

So the problem is I don't even see a slack adjuster... 

57 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

would have to assume the brakes are backed off ? ridge on drum not holding wheel on

Thanks.  The front brakes are "free" and the wheel spins.  Do I still need to back off the brakes?  That might be where I'm screwing it up.  If so how do I back them off??

I am trying to remove the front wheel from a 1972 Mack CF with Spoke Wheels.  I have the tire and outer rim off, the axle nut off, however the spoke and drum will not come completely off.  The outer bearing comes out fine, however the entire spoke and drum assembly only moves about 1/4".  Can anyone advise what I am doing wrong??  Thanks in advance.

22 hours ago, mrgumby said:

Did you just replace the inside drive cable or both the drive cable and the housing for the cable   I always put a little oil or light grease in the cable housing

I replaced both and I put oil on the drive cable inside the housing.  I am guessing there is a process for this but I can't find anything that makes sense...

I have now replaced the RPM Guage cable on my CF 3 times.  Each time it works fine for about two hours and then the tang breaks off in the Guage itself.  I have replaced the guage, and obviously the cable.  Any ideas what could be causing this??

9 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

new cable/gauge  only thing left is like Rob said , the radius.  it would have to be a 90 degree to break that many so soon; doubt it's bent like that. what vehicle is it in ?   been a while since working on fire trucks is there a rpm gauge on control panel ?   I don't remember how  panel gauge gets its source  ;  splitter  box ? either way complete assy  even a little  long shouldn't break. how does the tach work for first 20 minute when running.: bounces, run smooth :  other than angle only thing  left would be wrong cable end . when you tighten cable to gauge it jams cable too tight?  as earlier stated we made them back in the day. there was an assortment with different size ends.  some tangs were longer. leave cable nut a little loose on gauge   run it   ??

The TAC cable runs directly from the top of the engine nearest the fan up through the cab floor into the guage.  there is only one way to connect this cable, so I know its correct and I only hand tightened it on the guage end.  You mentioned oil... The Mack store said this cable is ready to install the way it came.  I did not put any oil in it.  could that be the problem?  I didn't notice any in the original cable either.  

11 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

when you say $160.00 from mack, means buying factory made for truck set up?  reason I ask , is we always made up inner cable or outer housing. I agree with phase1 with manually turn cable . also disconnect from tach and start eng see  how center cable runs. I've seen tangs break off in gauges  bind up cables,  believe you replaced  gauge ,that would eliminate  broken tang thought.   electric drill on  engine side with tach side slightly loose. 

The cable is complete from Mack as the replacement.  It comes with both pieces (inner and outer).  I would certainly be happy if I could just replace the inner core.... it would seem cheaper.

11 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

20 min, was there a plastic insert  in original  housing  for holding cable centered  that was  misplaced .     what is broken  ; cable itself or tang  on end? 

It was the TAC end, not the drive end.  That plastic piece is in good shape.

10 minutes ago, Phase 1 said:

Turn the cable at the motor end while it is connected at the tach to see if it turns freely.

Thanks.  I did forget to mention that I did that and it was free.  strange thing is that it happend both times after the truck was running for about 20 minutes..  not immediately...

57 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Did you replace the outer casing also?  Or just the inner cable?   The casing itself my have damage that is eating at the cable.

If you replaced both pieces, that's good, but since it broke again with another gauge...that is a mystery.  Does the cable have slack in it?  Pulled tight around something?

Yep, replaced both, both times.  I have checked and see no place where it's "over taught".  I am at a complete loss...

56 minutes ago, mrgumby said:

Did you replace both the cable housing and the drive cable or just the drive cable   Maybe put a little lube in it also    I’ve had the drive pin and adapter on the engine snap too.  Since you replaced the tach head that’s all I can think of

Yep, replaced both, both times.  I'm stuck..on what it could be and at $160 per cable from Mack... it's getting costly...

I am having problems with my RPM gauge.  The cable broke (tip that goes into the gauge) and I replaced it.   That cable then broke and I replaced both the gauge and the cable again.  Now again the cable broke in the same place.  Can anyone give me some insight on the problem?  I am at a loss...

Awesome.  I will follow your advice!  Thanks!!

Thanks.  The manual does say filter.. (see pic) but I will just follow your instructions!  Appreciate it!!

Hi all.  I am getting ready to change the coolant filter/conditioner on my endt865 engine.  The service manual references a 7psi radiator filter cap that I need to remove to allow me to change the filter.  Can anyone tell me where that might be?  Thanks in advance!!

Oh my brother I have all of them... The problem is that they recommend SAE R71 fluid which I think is DOT 3, but want to make sure I ask the veterans on here first....

Any recommendations for a company that restores fuel tanks.  Mine is rusty on the inside and needs redone.  Thanks in advance.

I just finished replacing all of the brake lines and restored (thanks white post) cylinders on my 85LS fire engine.  What type of Brake fluid should I put back in it??

Thanks. I tried that.  It's not the correct seal.  That site is not very reliable, that is unless timken shipped me the wrong one...

Looking for any info on wheel deals for an RA45 Axle. The Mack part number is 88AX95 however it no longer crosses according to my local mack dealer.  Any help is appreciated.

Looking for Battery Selector for L Model.  Anyone know where I might source one?

I'm looking for a battery selector toggle switch.  Anything like that in your stuff?

Timing was it... after refining it a little she fired right up.  Thanks all.