mr-dash

Or is it possible to use only air to release the rear parking nrakes on this f700 system. Seems like shop air released for now like the other air brake systems do. Just trying to weigh any options here on my project from hell !!!!!

I This weekend i swapped the axles and found the red fluid in the rear parking brake system. These axles have the same measurements across the leaf perchs. They bolted right up. It seems like it takes 90 psi of air pressure to release the rear parking brake. I was thinking of having about a 3 to 5 gallon heavy duty air tank half full of trans fluid presurize it to 100 psi to release the parking brake. ????

Any body know about the air over hydtaulic brakes on the 86 Ford F700 i,m using as a donor. Will i have to have a comercial drivers license in texas. Look like normal hydraulic brakes with air rear parking brake. Front are dual caliper disc that look like a oversize F-350 or F-500. I dont want to use this trucks hydroboast system as it has lines and valve system from hell. Heard a international has a floor pedal hydroboast set up thats pretty simple and basic. I need simple and basic floor pedal assy. For a 2 ton hydraulic system. Vacuum or hydraulic ? Consider any modern I can find the linkage in a salvage yard and buy rebuilt or new master cylinder and booster. See my project post on other makes trucks forum. Thanks JD

Any body know about the air over hydtaulic brakes on the 86 Ford F700 i,m using as a donor. Will i have to have a comercial drivers license in texas. Look like normal hydraulic brakes with air rear parking brake. I dont want to use this trucks hydroboast as it has lines and valves from hell. Heard a international has a floor pedal hydroboast set up thats pretty simple and basic. I need simple and basic. For a 2 ton hydraulic system

I'm with you, the front for sure angeled to the front, I forgot about what I was planning for the rear, I was going to put a large pin, probally made out of a 1 inch torsion bar from a 76 cadillac eldorado. Straight down in the P-38 frame into the frame of the invader. Like i was saying earlier, when the car is on the truck it stops dead nuts in the same place every time so the pin should align pretty good, maybe have to slot the hole in the truck from side to side. Weld a pipe on the race car frame for the pin to fit into. The P-38 only has front floors on the feet area. No rear floors. Pretty easy to accrss the rear to anchor it down.

OK a 4 point tie down it is, Got to keep it legal and safe. Would not want to loose it on the road. Probally should of left some access throught the side box doors. Its going to be awile before I get the car back to where the truck is. Glad I made the post. Maybe the front corners of the frame can be access from the bottom. Can the front tie downs go from the frame straight down or do they have to be pulled to the front ? Rear also can they be straight down or have to be pulled to the rear. Rear wont bounce at all. It will be locked down. I think i seen the car haulers pull their straps either way front or rear . Good stuff. Thanks guys.

Stock car, doors are welded shut, get out the pass side roof, been like that since 1957. The car actually dead centers on the rear of the frame when it is driven on, maybe not dead center but hi centers so to speak on both sides of the frame in front of the rear tires. Built up one side because the car leans with the old suside ft suspension and offset ft tires. I will make some kind of tie strap for the rear bumper area to pull down or access from front underneath center. I put a class 5 trailer hitch receiver in the front of the bed, back of the interior wall at the bottom for a winch or for a tie down. My friend thinks just a strap at the rear will be OK. With it in gear it should not go anywhere. The ramps in the truck are pretty steap for front tires going down up and down the hill. It drives on and off the truck. Floods a little if your slow. It will back off with the starter also if it dont start. Just a hell of a deal. The bed was just the right size for everything. But had to cut the back wall. That was a no brainer when I got the truck and started measuring. There is room in front of the car for 2 barn type doors for a tool and equipment area. Maybe gas cans, floor jack, etc. Winch will be out of sight in there also installed in the receiver hitch. Alot of thought is going into every detail on this truck. More gauges than you can imagine will cover the dash. Alot of gauges are going to be in pairs. All period stuff too. I got a large boat or ship red glass beacon last year at Hurshey for the roof. Speakers are going to be for the kids, gang bangers and hipsters I guess. Its going to all the local shows when I get it finished.

Trying to find some pics of the dummy 6 inch hose on the side behind the door. These were bobbed off and mounted to the gig gag metal behind the wall. Old fighter plane WWII art I want to put on it somewhere. P-38 is my dads old race car. 1934 plymouth has been in the family since mid 50's Restored as a rat rod barn find type about 10 years ago. Just so i could drive it on the street. Everything pretty much period correct, even the tires are from the 50's

Storage area under the seat, the diamond metal plate lifts up from the back. Hinged in the front same as the seats are. Also air condition system under the seats. I'm going to cut 12X12 or so out of the diamond plate under the seat area both sides so the air comes up through the seats, real air conditioned seats. Real bomber seats of some kind, come without bottoms, I spread the bottom ears for leg room. Hinged with springs. 2 inch aircraft seatbelts also are going to be installed. Pretty proud of the bomber seats, the steel mesh is only attached at the rear so its cushy and springs all over. No padding needed back or bottom on these, fit me like a glove, adjustable tilt also. Large fence gate bolts at the front. Vintage wheel chair seat springs at the rear cut in half. Aluminum ramps store behind the seats on the wall, has a package tray like the 38 Pontiac business coupe. This truck is going to have so many gadgets its unreal, REALLY !!!!!! Only thing modern will be the drivetrain. A 1988 Ford F700 with air condition. And maybe 30 six in speakers.I'm on the fence on the speakers. I had to cut about 15 six inch holes inside each door for access to install window channells. Totally different than the original set up. The outside door skin was suspose to come off to access the windows. It was too rusty. Truck will not be painted, I call it the BIG RAT. Yep "BIG RAT" is its name.

Delivered 1 month after WWII was over. Pretty cool. I saved from the scrap yard. Going to have hydraulic ft disc, air over hydraulic drum on the rear. Power steering also I hope. All from the Ford F-700. More pics, they are out of order.

Been about 3 years now, hope to finish in a couple more years, been idle for at least 2 years now. Got a 88 Ford f700 for donor, Both axles and 429 are going to fit. P-38 fits like a glove !!!!!

Thanks for the reply, anyone have any parts for sale for this a40 mack ?

I have a 1950 Mack model A40, need about all sheet metal. including skirt around the cab, I found this model L on this website and was wanting to know if anyone could tell me if it will interchange. It looks like the cab is just taller so we will have to keep the cab and doors. Three pics are of the L model, single pic is of the 1950 A40. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks JD