Mark Kilroy

Hi guys how'sit going? I recently bought an old rd with a reman E7 300 and it's a great truck. But sometimes after running it on the highway for awhile when it comes time to exit and the truck slows down it will stall unless you keep you foot on the peddle or if it doesn't stall it will idle rough for a few minutes. does anyone have any ideas

yes if it 's a standard stroke 24 it is 1 3/4 or less. if it's a standard stroke 30 it is 2 inch or less. so you measure the length of the rod on the chamber when your foot or someone else has their foot on the brake. i like to run my trucks with the 30/30s about 1 1/2 inches to allow plenty of room for expansion when the drums get hot. and it doesn't compromise the safety of the driver.and it is DOT legal. You should check the rears anyway it couldn't hurt. if there is only 1/2inch movement on the rod that may mean it's dragging

hey guys how are all of you doing? in response to your tire problem i dont think it is the case of it, My freightliner tri axle dump has another set of new tires after the same type of problem. The first set i put on were to try to fix the bounce and it did nothing, we went over the truck front to back, top to bottom. Someone said they were cheap tires and that was the cause but i had it prior too changing them. So i paid almost 6000 dollars on better tires and it was still there. So with the first set of Chinese tires that i paid 3500 for and had less the 10,000 miles on them i wasn't ready to just throw them away so i put them on my RD tri axle dump and they work fine. I know this may sound stupid or routine but have you checked your brake adjustments? I know alot of guys out who like to run them tight and it can cause a wobble under certain conditions and speeds. The proper adjustment may smooth it out and it doesn't cost anything.

Thank you again guys. Yes i did replace all the pads rubber upper and neaprene lower, the trunion bushings, the u bolts, and the torque arms, when i bruoght it home. The front rear must have walked back and when i replaced them i just put it together the same way i took it apart, but the rear was in the wrong position

Thank you all for your input. after reading thomastractorsvc's reply over and over and over i looked into it(the driveshaft). I did some research about driveshafts and found there are different types of setting. So after reading page after page of info i went back to look at the truck again and,THERE IT WAS! The front rear was set back about half to three quaters of an inch on the drivers side. off setting too imaginary parallel lines from the trans and the front rear and off setting the driveshaft. when i put the new pads in under and over the spring they sat in differently than any of the others they looked as if they didnt go all the way in but i still managed to get it back together easy but the upper looked as if it was going to squeez itself out and i didnt think anything of it. So after reading all about drivshafts and having had the problem in the past with another truck i had but a different situation it seemed familiar. so i measured from the spring at the tee to the spring seat WOOO WHOO! so we took it apart the torque arm, driveshaft, and the spring seat. With the puller we moved it foward using the lift axle as an anchor. so we put it back together and so far so good... Thank you guys for all your advice, especially Thomastractorsvc!

thank you again. I will try to straighten them, do i need to press for the pulley, or can i just use the bolt to put it in?

I was working on my RD today and i noticed that the crank pully was not running straight, the motor idles rough could this cause the problem? I didnt think to much of it cause my old R model ran rough and i didnt have any problems with it. IT WAS A DAMN GOOD TRUCK!!! and does anyone know the pinion angle between the transmission, front rear, and to the back rear

thank you all again i really appreciate all of your help. i checked a few things like the spacers and the wheels but they dont seem too bad. i tried to set the wheels true, they are not perfect tho... how could i tell if it was a bent axel? the bounce will start at or around 35mph and get less severe at 45, or sometimes at a different speed or rpm depending on who is driving.

thanks guys, for all your ideas i will look at some of them in the a.m. at least i have a place to start

thanks for the responce. i also changed the bearing when i put the driveshaft back in

i just bought a 93 rd dump and it feels like its bouncing alot (not from the road or the surface that im driving on),but it gets alot worse when its loanded. it feels like a driveshaft problem to me so i had it rebiult and nothing has changed, i tried alot of other possible causes like virgin tires, new drums and shoes, bushings, motor mounts but no luck... does anyone have some other ideas?