d427

Thanks guys. I had the rims and hubs sandblasted and powdercoated when I had all the bearings and brakes done. I am going to dyna-mat the floor and they have this silly string looking undercoat made by 3m or Kent that comes out of a special gun ( all body shop guys will know what this stuff is. It really cuts noise down. I am going to coat over the dyna mat and put a coat in all the cabareas including up top. Jt, my wife took a video of me on her I-pad but I need to figure out how to get it on here or set up a youtube deal. I love your general by the way and signed on every day excited to see you fire it up for the first time. Those detroits do sound cool in their own special way. Sbateman, it is awesome to see someone else in my area getting a b model. We definately need to hook upand compare trucks!

Thanks guys! I decided to spend a little more on a truck that was pretty solid. Probably paid too much but runs really well and has almost all od its original parts. I need to do some wiring for some reason when they converted it to negative ground and alternator there was alot of cut wires. I am going to re-do interior next since the floor is completely rust free. lots of dyna mat and new firewall insultation to try to keep some of the noise and heat down. I am in desparate need of glove box hinges and knob if anyone knows of some. I wish I had more time to work on it but I am a professional car painter and work about 60 hrs a week. If anyone needs any advice for painting let me know.

Well said. If you are dumb enough to think that all of these problems are from Obama then you need to pull your head out of your ass. I don't particularly care for the guy either but these economic problems are over 20 yrs old and it has just reached the boiing point.

That looks damn sweet my friend!

Hey there! Depending on what their basecoat open time is the worst case is you put another wet coat of base on to re-wet for clear. Most top paint maufacturers have open basecoat times of 16hrs or indefinately as long as it doesnt get sunlight. The only time that single stage is more durable than clearcoat is when it is hard enamel. Most high end car paint is acrylic urethane so the clear is actually just as good. Don't worry, this should be no big deal but as I said before, check your technical data sheet on the basecoat for re-coatability times and you should be fine. Good luck! Darren

Thanks for the info fellas! I appreciate all of the great knowledge and advice from all of you on this site. It has helped me big time! Going to try my hand at making some videos for you tube in the next few weeks. Thanks again everyone!

Hey guys! I have claned out and reconditioned my original air cleaner assy and am wondering about oil level. It has the fill line embossed on side and my book says about 1 qt will do so does that mean I just fill the outer ring or do I fill the middle bottom up to? I am thinking the outer bowl only because it would take more that a qt to fill whole bottom. Thanks! Darren

The truck did idle a little higher when I got it but the pedal was sloppy and would stick so while it was in for kingpins and brakes I mentioned it and they adjusted linkage and it is great but now idles low. Lots of stuff unhooked and wires cut when I got truck so just trying to figure everything out.

Thanks guys. When weather clears I will try the hand throttle. I kinda forgot about that lever. My mechanic adjusted throttle linkage and pedal has nice feel to it but want it to idle just a little higher. Thanks for the advice!

Hey guys. Got truck back with new kinpins and wheels powdercoated. Also, I cut down stack and painted flat black.I have been doing all fluid changes and general mechanical myself but am wondering how to bring up my idle speed a little. It is idling at about 500-550 and shakes truck real bad as you can imagine. My question is about the fuel pedal. Do I have to adjust it on the pump or can I fiddle with pedal assembly. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Will post pics when I get a chance

I am a professional car painter and can tell you that the nason products are ok for budget projects, they don't have the longetivity or durability that more expensive paints have. Even DuPont products are not that great. Also, you should never mix different companies products. This can lead to major failure and you don't want to re-do it later. If you use nason sealer, you need to use nason base and clear or stick with the same company all the way through the job. If you want the best results, stay away from American paint systems like PPG, DuPont, Omni, or Nason and use european paint like Glasurut, Sikkens, or Standox. These will cost a little more but they will outlast the american stuff and hold a better shine.

My B61 has a 5.74 rear gear. I have had it to 45mph and seems like it would do 55 easily.

That is what I am assuming Maddog. I wasn't sure what all Lt differnces were but I had heard that some used aluminum hoods as well but mine is steel. Truck was originally red. I am powdercoating the wheels and hubs next week and instaling new radials on front to compliment new kingpins and alignment. Was the air ride expensive to do Freightrain? I have put bags on a few pickups. Anyoneknow what fluid is best for the power steering? Regular power steering fluid?

Thanks for the fuel tank info. I thought they all came with the square tanks but I have seen them with round one too but assumed that they had just been changed out. I wondered about the air tank too. It has the one on the rear crossmember and the one along the left frame rail. Here is the tank on the right side

Thanks guys. I did actually buy it from Dennis. Still on the fence whether it was a good decision or not but the truck runs well and body is in very good condition from what I have seen in other B models. wish I had some original fuel tanks though! This is my first big truck but have had about everything else so I figures what the hell as you just don't see this kind of stuff in Colorado. i am never going to pull a trailer so I might remove some of the shorter leaves and do the old school spacer.

Hi everyone! My b61 is in need of kinpins and am wondering how easy they are to get and how much I might be looking at to have them done.Also have any of you tried to do anything to soften ride on these original suspensions? I thought about removing some of the leafs but need to talk to a truck mechanic. Just wondering what others might have done. Thanks!!

I would need a set as well. Thanks

Sorry, I would have to look again as I left it at the shop. It is not ver thick, maybe 1/8 of an inch. The guy had so many choices that i just grabbed something I knew would work and he cut 20 inches off of a roll. It doesnt have wire reinforcement but he probably has that too. These engines don't pull that hard so you dont really need to worry about it collapsing. I will try to see if the receipt has some sort of part number on it but as long as it is not too flimsy anything will work

I just went through this for my b-61 and I went to a supplier here in Denver,Co called Central state Hose 5199 E 48th ave Denver, Co 80216 303-321-2661 and they have every kind of 4" tubing and hose you can imagine. Very helpful. I got a 12" peice to go from firewall to intake and cut another short section for my outer air cleaner assembly connection

Thanks fellas! I have decided to just go through everything and then do the powdercoating while it is taken apart! Thant way I know that it is all good to go. Thanks again for all of your help! This is my first heavy truck and am learning by leaps and bounds

Thank you very much for the info!!

You definately have to remove the brake drum assy to get the spokes off? That sucks. maybe I will remove wheels and tires and blast hubs on truck and paint without removing

Getting ready to have wheels sandblasted and powdercoated. Once the wheel and tire is off can I just unbolt the spokes from the hub or is ther something I should know? It just looks like they would come right off. Thanks