turckster

Need more details. What kind of failure? Faults? Blowing tips, leaking cups, electrical faults or mechanical faults?

I believe the shut off solenoid is located on the inlet port of the inj. pump. There is a service bulletin about gutting the valve to fix this issue.

You need a DVOM  to trace the circuits. You should have at least one ground wire from the starter negative post to the frame and or block. The cab ground is usually located on the left frame rail near the starter location. There should be 2 wires from the starter positive stud, one to the alternator and the other to the starter relay located on the firewall. From the starter relay (on firewall) it goes into the cab to the power relay.

The new relays look nothing like the old relays in the R models. Don't know part numbers--not my thing. 

Just a pointer when replacing mains. #2,3,5&6 share the same uppers and lowers. #4&7 share the same lowers but have different uppers--can't mix them because of tang location. #1 has the same lowers as 2,3,5&6 but a different upper. I have seen people put the wrong upper shell in #1. The wrong one will fit in #1 but you will loose all thrust plus the oil feed is in a different location on #1. 

As far as I know the Ambient temp sensor would not cause frequent regens. You should have 12v at pin #2 on the sensor. From pin #1 at the sensor to the instrument cluster pin 9B it should be anywhere from 0-10 ohms.  The FMI of the fault really determines how to diagnose the fault, without that you are guessing on what is wrong. The PDF is the wire diagram of the ambient temp sensor and related circuits. 

Untitled Document.pdf

Have you tried multiple regens to see if the soot level would drop? The regen temps, at least to me, look good for a 2007 emission engine. How does the dpf diff. psi look during the regen? Was the 7th inj. cleaned and if so did you reset the adaptive factor for it? I would think if there was an issue with the DOC the inlet temp would be off and other temps as well. For example, if the DOC is face plugged the outlet temp usually passes the after cat temp.

Injectors or turbo? Perform a snap test- remove exh. flex pipe before the dpf. With the engine at an idle have someone punch the throttle to max, there should be some soot right away but it should clear away within a few seconds. A slight haze is ok but for the most part it should be clear, if it smokes continuously then you may have an injector issue. Check intake system for leaks.  During a regen the boost psi should be under 10 psi for engines with out a recirculation valve, with the recirculation valve it will be slightly lower. If boost psi is too high remove the sra and verify the turbo sector shaft sweep. It should be smooth and feel a solid stop both ways(there is a tool for verifying full sweep). Any type of binding and the turbo is bad. 

Note: if you don't have PTT2 do not remove the sra, it must be calibrated before re-assembly 

To me it sounds like a possible exh leak or intake leak.  With a cold engine you can use soapy water to find exhaust leaks. The Mack MP7 exh manifold gaskets do the exact same thing when they are leaking. 

What you need to do is separate engine and trans. by unbolting the clutch and running the engine. if the vibration disappears  then the issue is not the engine. That will give you a direction to follow, anything else is speculation. 

I see a lot of claims being said on their web site. Do they have dyno numbers to support their claims? Actual road tests that support their claims? Real world data, not customer testimonials. If not I'd save your money. 

A sticking dynatard valve or if no engine brake it could be a loose exh. valve seat(s). Seems to me back in  the day when we still saw those engines and I heard the same noise, a co-worker told me it was a loose exh valve seat. 

Depends what the FMI is of that fault. It could be a short to ground, open circuit, short to power. The FMI will tell you that and from there you can begin your approach to diagnosing. 

2 hours ago, Mackpro said:

I wondered that. It seems your right after looking at the manual. It was 30 years ago that I saw the guys drilling and re-pining them so that would be about right. The manual still shows you checking run-out though. But if its over .010" it dont tell you what to do about it. 

Replacement is the only option. Because they are fixed dowel there is nothing that can be done. Install a new flywheel housing and dial indicate, if it's still off the you may have an issue with the block--I have seen them etched and cause issues. 

Make sure the trans bellhousing  lip has a taper, if its flat and worn that will cause alignment issues which causes clutch failures and other issues. Same with the flywheel housing mating area which should show up when you check for out of round.

If everything looks ok then the vibration has to be coming from internal engine/ front accessory or internal trans/driveline. Hard to diagnose over the internet though.

If the flywheel is out of balance the issue should show up as soon as the the engine is started. You can unbolt the clutch and pry it back from the flywheel, start the engine and if you have a vibration then it could be a flywheel issue, crank issue or so forth. If it runs smooth as silk your issue is else where. Most people do not check flywheel housing run out  on the e-tech engines because they are a fixed dowel. Older Mack flywheel housings could be adjusted but not e-techs. If the flywheel housing is out of round then it must be replaced. 

An out of round flywheel housing can cause many issues like premature clutch failures, input shaft seal/bearing failures, spigot bearing failures and etc. 

Oil cooler is the only place that the two fluids could mix/leak. The engine oil psi is probably great enough to leak past the damaged area but not enough coolant pressure to leak....yet. 

Here is a service bulletin for CH chassis water pump issues including bolt breakage for the E-7 engine.

SB215012-Water pump bracket.pdf

Purchase a service manual, it will have all the info you will need for that engine. 

The HVAC harness to cab connector is right above the throttle pedal. You can remove the drivers side cover and front cover on the HVAC unit fairly easy. That should give you enough room to replace and rout the harness. 

Excessive play in the 5th wheel or a power divider going out, my money is on the power divider. 

An air compressor will pass oil if the engine spends too much time at idle. It is always best to bump them up a few hundred rpm's. 

Chances are there is fuel in the coolant as well. The problem is it will swell all the coolant o-rings and rubber seals including clouding up the coolant reservoir. PLUS, if coolant is in the fuel chances are the injectors may have gotten a steady diet of coolant, possibly damaging the injector internals.  It may not show up now but it will in the future. 

Manuals and other information can be purchased and downloaded on Mack's eMedia center. I found the manual for the TRTXL107/0 12 speed trans, showed to be about $22.

The spec for liner fit in the bore is .002" loose to .001" tight. Liners moving while rotating the engine is nothing to worry about. If they do move, make sure no debris or crud gets under the liner flange.