thomastractorsvc

Thanks to all who replied yes it was plugged in.  I tested it today and used some ether to clean it as it had something oily dirt on it.  Supposedly they took it out and tested it and said it was still good that wasn't what I found.

this was the part number I found stamped 64MT463M converts to 20963779

PAI FSU-0487

Just had the truck in the dealer  for a couple dealer repairs while there I had them reseal a EUP that was wet.  After they got the truck back together the truck is throwing 2-9 code that says Combustion Air Humidity TBD.  So I ask them what happened when they had everything apart deer in the head light stare because the sensor is $325.   My concern is that its not a regular fault and they said they couldn't figure out what was going on and wanted to throw a sensor on it. 

Any one ever have this issue and anyone know the part number?  I cant find it in Fleet Impact buts it is mounted in the intake tube and they didn't want to give me the part number for some reason.

You can get a OEM or PAI fuel transfer pump that bolts to the pump and an adapter for the tach speedo drive

I just bought some for one my 89 RW713 of mine from the dealer I gave $94 for Left side and $86 for the right side my numbers were

24RU4135P3 /RH 24RU57P7

24RU4136P3 /LH 24RU58P7

For my 85 RW788

24RU4136P2  LH

24RU4135P2 RH

so what do you have?

It has less than 5000 miles on oil, it looks like someone messed with it as the cover leaks and so did the electronic valve.  I took the magnetic apart and resealed it.  I noticed that it had a combo of metric and SAE and a nut as a washer.  I may try and take it apart and reseal it as it seems to be weeping.  Or just run it until it give a fit then replace the whole thing for $789.00

On 4/27/2020 at 12:26 AM, AZB755V8 said:

Yes it does! It is all about heat transfer. There is as much if not more area as the Grilldenser with all the fins and is R-134 comparable. It does cool better. Grilldeser is R-12 only I was told. It is the same condenser as used on the CL's. That is how I matched it up. Never heard of any A/C cooling issues with the CL's. I do have an original condenser out of a CL if you want it $50 plus the shipping. It is in good shape and will bolt right in, holes where already in my radiator side rails, I just wanted new. Whole conversion cost about $800 in parts. Have to get higher pressure hoses for R-134. They were 1/3 the total cost. Come to think of it I have good used R-134 hoses, dryer and valve too $150 for all. Only thing left is the compressor to get.

I wanted to update, Thanks for the info I try and get a couple pictures.  I mounted mine to the the lower tabs on the charge air cooler using 3/8 bolts and a couple washers for spacers.

I bought the AC Condenser, dryer and expansion valve form part http://www.partdeal.com/ they are a RedDot distributors and I replaced the evaporator coil from amazon.

All in less compressor $331.46, I bought a compressor local $264.51, should have gotten it from Partdeal.com.

Its was active turned the truck off it went off.  No smoke or anything out of the ordinary.  The timing advance is the ecovance correct? 

2 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

I have done this fix. The Red Dot # 77R1105 condenser fits perfectly, it is an R-134 unit. I go over the retro-fit in this post: Red Dot R-8810-M Started June 9, 2019 photos and all.  Let me know if I can help more. 

That little condenser is enough to keep everything cold?  Looks like it is only about 8" tall.

Thanks

Fired up my 92 that pulls my end dump from her winters hibernation.  Last ran in about 3 months ago.  Took it out to top it off and threw a 3-5 code looked it up says >>Timing Actuator Response Improper << 

What is that the ecovance or some sensor? Still runs and drives

Any ideas?

Anyone replace condenser with aftermarket one? What did you get and what size.  

My grilldensor was plugged with calcium and oil, thought we got it cleaned out still having problems with charging system

How can I tell, the probe in the exhaust?

I bought another Granite at an auction,  seems to run fine but has 3 codes

2-9 (ASET CEGR) Combustion temperature sensor

3-5 Engine Brake Output #1- This wire was connected

3-6 Engine Brake Output #2 - This wire was laying on the manifold, I reinstalled it and the code did not reset and of course the engine brake does not work

Any insite where I can find the Combustion temperature sensor and how to test the engine brake?  can you just wire it up like a dynatard?

check your motor mounts and front damper, lot of hours and years on them rubber parts  

Heat shields are on, i disconnected the wires and cleaned the terminals driver said that on his last load the code disappeared and truck ran awesome and then it came back on when he fueled .  When he pulled it in it was on, he shut it off and a little while latter when I went to check the blink code it was cleared.

I think I may change the #6 with one of the others while I have everything apart so if it is heat related I don't have to do it again.  Or see if I can afford another one from Mack or just leave it and see what happens.

The mack dealer tech when I asked about the stumble said no active codes so everything is working good, asked about the hesitation he said it is supposed to have a hesitation because its an electrictronic engine I didn't argue as it didn't have any active faults and ran good other then that hesitation brought on by the acceleration under load.

On 3/24/2020 at 10:11 AM, amck said:

About how much time does it take to rebuild a camelback suspension?

I made a youtube video depends on what you got to do and what capabilities and tools you are working with, the video will tell you.

I bought a couple of long bolts and made guide pins it helps with getting the carrier to sit down flush.  I use the good RTV and when it's tacky I drop it on I usually have to wiggle it but the guide pins allows it to not make the RTV push out creating a leak

What would you do?

1M2AG11C65M029481 2005 CV713

I paid to have HP increased last year from 350 to 400, truck is still a dog still and the motor acts like it has an old quadrajet carb, stumbles and then pulls out of it. 

Idles, starts and runs fine except when crowding it especially noticeable under load, but it pulls out of it.  I have change filters 3 days ago with no improvement. 

History of 8-6 FMI 8 & 8-5 FMI 8 nothin recent but until 2 days ago no active faults but has thrown 8-5 FMI 8 everyday

I checked for wiring issues and cleaned all terminals cleared code took about 30 minutes and the 8-5 FMI 8 popped back up.

I bought a Mack EUP and injector line and bolts today

What do I need to look for especially since it is one of the ones that is hard to get to

how long is the bed?  how is the frame?

39 minutes ago, Muamer said:

Yes the lightning bolt is there but I wouldn't have a clue what the codes are do not have a code reader 

 

you can use the speed control switches to get it to flash/blink.  Then count the flashes and post the codes.  there is two flash/blinks per code so if it was the engine timing sensor that threw the code it would be (Blink Blink Blink---Blink Blink) 3-2 on a V-Mac III

On 10/2/2019 at 9:39 PM, carlotpilot said:

had some thing similar in an mh  marker lt circuit turned out to be the breaker its self . would over heat and not reset` no shorted lights just breaker gave up

Had that in my 92 RW I was driving in the early morning and it started raining then the headlights quit and I could smell hot plastic.  Pulled over and waited until daylight, ended up getting cancelled due the rain so I went to the Mack dealer and spent $20 something on a 15 amp breaker been good since.

I ordered some new breakers for it.  

I took the dash apart and found a couple hot wires just laying inside so I taped them up.  Found some barely bare wires on the r/h headlight so I redid them to make sure.  I think its something in the headlight circuit.  The headlights work on low but if you switch the to high it will kick the breaker or if they stay on the accessory circuit will kick off then the headlights.  I always fix bad wiring but without a good schematic its takes a while.  This truck has the split headlights ( they don't run off the bus bar) they run out the firewall on both sides up to the lights.  I am planning on rewiring the headlights and adding relays and doing away with the dual circuit setup that should eliminate and shorts or touching wires.  

Has anyone experienced this.

No previous issues I was out trucking parked on Friday.  Sunday afternoon I took heater cover off to fix air cylinder.  I reassembled everything fired up the truck and ran the fan for a minute or two going through all the positions and checking the vent discharge.  The defrosters wasn't that strong, it was blowing out the bottom so I shut the truck off looked in side the side vent and moved the selector and realized I need to turn key on so I did and I got was a clicking noise from the power shut down solenoid in the dash.  No power to the dash or lights etc...  I pull the center panel off and I am getting 12 volts but its still clicking I disconnect the hot side to the switch it shows 12v and I can start the truck but no power to dash, all lights seemed to work.  Hook the wire back up no key or power and it clicks.  So I pull the solenoid and test it tests good but I replace it Monday morning.  Still doing same thing.  So I decide that I must have a open hot I pull all fuses and start replacing them one by one after checking them for continuity, all installed nothing I pull the relays and check them the Emergency Stop Lamp relay has a broken pieces of plastic so I figure it may be grounded out to the aluminum fuse panel.  I pull it out of the mount and wrap in electrical tape.  I try it and everything works.

Run the truck most of today the power shut off to the dash like before, I turned key switch off and on again everything came back about 15 minutes later did it again would not reset so I brought the truck home and switched trucks to finish the day.

Ideas anyone?  I been thinking of it may be easier to just rewiring the interior as I already rewired the lights to rear and to the hood.

my 2 cents.  My buddys tarp motor was acting like that and one of the poles was broken free in the motor.  This was found after he brought it to my shop and he already replaced the switch and wire.  I disconnected the wires and hooked up to my multi meter they showed 12v ots both sides in accordance with the switch, if you grounded the motor it would work, I told him the motor was bad he didn't believe me so I took one I had and hooked it up and showed him.  Took the old one apart and the terminal was broken loose in the motor.

On 12/7/2018 at 7:58 AM, j hancock said:

Hello Robert,  Sorry, don't have either part for you but would certainly like to see some pictures as you progress with your project.  Will keep my eyes open for any A parts.

Will do I mostly have been on face book haven't been here on a little bit