Flat Work

Okay, it's blinking 4-5. Which my research pulls up a problem with the VGT. When I bought the truck a year and a half ago, the VGT was stuck. I worked it loose with a small pry bar and penetrating oil, and it stopped throwing a fault. Will this cause me to fail my inspection?

And I can do this with the engine running?

This spring, when I got the truck out, I had no alternator charge, and the CEL lightening bolt was on. I replaced the alternator, and batteries, and fixed the problem. The truck charges at almost 15 volts now. But I still have a check engine light issue. But only while the truck is at idle to about 1000 rpm. As soon as the engine speed comes up above that, it goes out, and stays out. Until I come to a stop sign, red light, or just idle the truck. It's running fine. Starts fine, accelerates fine, and has its usual power. My DOT inspection is due next week. Is there any way for me to pull this code and determine the problem before hand? Truck is an '04 CX-613. AC-427 engine. 344,000 miles.

Well, it's go one, and there is play in it. Do I have to remove the tower, and pound this thing apart?

Cool. Thank you. I'll check it out.

I haven't gotten that far into it. It doesn't feel like a gear box issue. The shifter has kind of a "rubber" feeling to it. I drove a friend's truck the other day, and it's crisp, and close between the gears. Mine seems to have a "flex" to it.

I've got a lot of play in my shifter. I've been told it's more than likely the isolator bushing. Is this a difficult repair?

It was combination of both. The alternator is dead, and the batteries are weak. I picked up 2 new batteries yesterday. And I'm seriously considering adding 2 more. One thing I've learned from living in Michigan for 49 years- you can never have too much cold-weather cranking power. I got the alternator off yesterday. Damn- that was a job! It's a standard Delco 22SI. 150 amp. I'm going to my local starter/alternator shop this morning. I'm going to talk to him about a quality replacement in the 200 plus amp range. I don't have a refrigerator in there yet, but I might add one later. My main concern is in getting a quality alternator that hopefully will outlast my ownership of the truck. That thing was a pain in the ass to remove. And I don't want to have to do it again!!!

There are 2 unused terminals. Both have a rubber cap on them. I have the batteries out charging right now. I'll let them slow charge until tomorrow morning, and go get them tested. The drive belt is tight. The connections all look good and clean. The alternator is a Delco 22si. If I determine it's bad, is there anything special about it? Is it on a standard frame? All the replacement ones I've seen seem to be between 150-220 amps. But I don't know for sure how big the one that's on it is.

I don't know right now. The truck is parked over at a friend's farm. I left it sitting there after I got done helping him get his grain up last December. I've had my kids all week for spring break. I'm heading over there next week to get the truck around for spring. I'll let you know what I find.

2004 CX-613. AC-427 engine. Trying to find out the oil capacity, with filters. Everything I'm finding online says 11-12 gallons. Does that sound about right?

What's the process for doing that?

Well, I lit the Mack up a couple of days ago. It had been sitting for a couple of months. I have either a very low alternator output, or none at all. It shows about 11 volts at an idle. It steps up to 12-12.5 volts if you give it some rpm's. The little lightening bolt on the dash stays on at and idle, but will go out after increasing rpm's as well. I have done zero checking on the system anywhere as of yet. Any suggestions exactly where, and how to start? I did have to boost it to start it. Thanks.

Rebuilt price is about $400.00 less. I would rather go with new.

I just got my first over the phone quote back. $2500.00 If that's the going rate, I'll drive to Virginia and use your mechanic. He told me 14 hours on labor.