truxnut

Im intrested in learnin a little about that big ole gasser. All ive heard about it were a few stories, no real information on it. Its over a thousand cubes right? Inline or a v configuration? what kind of power could be expected from on of these beasts? What kind of trucks were they in? I'm just lookin for some stories and information on these.

thanks

Chris

The common sizes were 855,935 and 1091 CID. HP ranging up tp about 350 when using propane for fuel, and remember this is in the early 50s. The H-S engines were avaiable in most truck makes in the 30s to early 50s. They also made a 540 CID engine in the 50s. Other than a V-12 marine engine they were all in -lines . Back in the 20's also had a 4 cyl. that IHC used a lot. Lots of fire engines used the 935 and 1091s in the 50s . Also used in busses in a horizontal under floor style. They were know to make LOTS of power and for being VERY thirsty. Buddy of mine has a 935 in a Seagrave F/T with a 4 inch straight pipe and sure sounds good.

The 913-9513 OD boxs had a .87 OD ratio. No way of really telling the year, somewhere between 64-65 and somewhere in the later 70's.

It should use Champion D-14 or D-16. Doubt that Bosch even makes that in Platium.

It should be a EN 354 ,115HP at 2850 ,254 ftlbs at 1100. 5.5 comp ratio.Plug gap.025,points .018-.024 ,timing 7 BTDC on damper,valve clearance cold IN .008 Ex .025. Postive ground. 20-50 oil will work but I would drop the pan and clean out any acumulated sludge ,or min. change the oil after 100 miles or several hours. Figure 45-55 MPH top speed depending on gearing. Takes 11 qts with filter. And whats wrong with a generator ????? LOL Put'n chicken lights on it ?? LOL

Which leads one to assume the front bearing may be getting loose and wearing out the oil return thread. Or something is restricking the oil flow from the pump intermitenly.

I run nothing but bias. Simple reason ,on a toy truck you just don't put the miles on to wear out a radial. Radials are only good for a about 5 years before they start weather checking and once that happens they can come apart at any time. A good part of a radial tires sidewall strengh is the rubber it's self and when it starts deterating away goes the strengh. Bias by their design do not relie onthe rubbers strengh to hold things together. Botton line if you can afford to buy new rubber every 5 years or so or can wear it out in that time radials are agood deal. Radials also have a bigger foot print so steering is harder at very low speeds, do ride better though.

Most all of the 12 volt systems I have seen made before '55 or so use internal resistor coils. A 12V coil that uses a external resistor will fry the points and sooner or later kill it's self also. You can either replace with internal resistor coils or use regular ones with external resistors.

More likely a bad coil or condensor. Pull cap and turn engine to open points ,jump across points with a screw driver with coil wire pulled out of the cap and held 1/4 inch from ground. With the switch on of course. As you make and break the circut with the screw drive you should get a spark. also might be as simple as a bit of moisture in the cap or on the coil tower.

Well some of the older ones did not have seals on the input/output shafts, just a oil return thread. Also before you go any further you need to know what the box series is 6231-8031 etc. Simplest is take any seals to a parts/bearing house and make your own gaskets.

About 90% of trucks need a ratio correction [adapter]box to get the speedo to read right. They can be had with the small square drive tip,a .203 round with a tang was used in most Spicer and Fuller.

That's one of the benefits of a Mack with Mack axles , the only chambers that fit are the Mack piston or a #24 service chamber. Years ago they made offset plates for mounting spring brakes along with real hokey offsets for the slacks. Get some offset slacks and fab up a plate to offset the chambers and you will be set.

All of the B diesels would have been 12 volt, sometimes 2 6volt batts were wired in series to give 12V this setup would have had 4 batteries. 2 900 CCA or more 12 volt bateries will do you fine, try for group 31's.

Assuming both your 22.5s and the 24.5s are standard profile you shout see about a 4-5 MPH increase in top speed. Personally I would do the tire swap.

My guess it is some sort of moisture ejector with the one line to open air. Don't have any old Wagner air books around to tell for sure.

Well first those are NOT worms [sQW] rather SQDD double reduction. SQW's never had a power divider which is why with those it was very inportant that all 8 tires were closely matched as to highth. Mack used a Timken double reduction tandem set that said Mack on them, think they were SLDDs 34,000 lb ers.

I'll second Superdog WHO CARES!

If you have the small Mack piston style chambers the only out is to build some offset mounting adapters and get soem slacks with offset arms. Years ago you could buy those offset brackets and some hokey offsets for the slacks also. If you are lucky and have regular diaphram chambers now [fat chance probably] the spring pots should fit OK.

Well thomas do you have Maxi spring brake chambers on the truck now with 2 air line to each? If you have the Mack piston type service chambers [one line] and those are NOT Roto chambers but a piston type. To use spring brakes [ regular 2 diaphram stype] where there was just the piston type service can you will have to weld/fabercate some offset mounting brackets and get some offset slack adjusters. A picture of what you have now would be a big help.

Start with 13 qts in the pan and after running it a bit recheck to see how much the filter needed and top it off. Fire Service engine should not make any difference.

If it hasn't beeen run in awhile crack the pan drain plug 3-4 threads and check for water in the pan. a little from condensation is OK. Otherwise normal O/P is over 20 idle and 50+ at govened speed at operating tempature. A little water-oil seapage between head and block is fairly common. Be sure to carry at least 1 spare fuel filter and a quart of ATF or other thin oil to fillit with. The old 220s were pretty bullit proof.

Well a electric pump is an option but there are places that rebuild the stock ones. Take a look in Hemmings. See if you can get a casting number off the M/C and post it here or email it to me and I'll see what I can do towards getting you a kit mumber.

Undercoating/sound deadner. You'll wish you had more of it. Doesn't hurt a thing.

Bigger problems require stronger measures!! LOL Didn't know what equipment you had available and some people would have run and hid if I had mentioned doing that! Bottom line what ever works. Good deal.

Cool the liner with some Ice or dry ice with pressuer on it.

AND CF there is no real reason to post a pic that is going to be viewed on a montor larger than 35-50K and 640X480 pixles. The picture will not look one whit better on the screen at 200-500K and just wastes space.