krismoriah

Yes i ran it 1 year with a worn trunion and another year with worn out trunion, which ended up breaking 5 leaf springs. I replaced with new springs and trunions this winter.

44K rears bronze bushings and transverse torque rods.

kscarbel,

I guess things have changed because they sell the uppers here on this site http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_80

I replaced my trunion and springs and noticed that my insulator pads are worn out again. I usually get a year or two out of the bottoms and every time i do a swap out the top pads are hardly worn.. so the question is..

can i do urethane bottoms and rubber tops? meaning leave my good rubber tops in and just swap out the bottoms for the urethane?

cant find a post where anyone has done this..but would save me some $ if no issues.

for less than $100 you can convert your old yellow halogens to H4 bulbs. Just type in H4 conversion and your number of bulb that you are using. LEDs are nice for markers and tail lights...but H4 is way cheaper and better for driving lights. Just converted my dump and am very very happy.

Autopal is the housing i used.. the same as hella and bosch but cheap. H4 bulbs are at every napa, advance etc. Just plug n play.

Air operated PTO systems do not work until you reach 90psi. So if you have an air switch the gear will not seat until that pressure is reached. Gear turns the pump which pushes the fluid.

If your pump smoked, then you probably melted the o-rings in that shaft that you manually pushed in. Just remove the shaft and put new o-rings on.

Try getting 90psi to the pto and i think u are back in business.

two jacks. one under each podcap. Not a very safe or fun job for one man. Good jacks, good crib blocks, good jack stands.. or dont do it yourself for safety sake.

Just curious if you are trying to make a living in this truck or just fooling around the farm? I cant imagine having a 1973 mack and not knowing much about working on them.. at least you will learn alot quick!!

Clean everything up with brake clean... then drive it down the road to pinpoint where its coming from.. if its the little button leaking in the center..you can buy those for like a dollar and keep on trucking. If its the sight glass then its cheaper just to look at the number on the hubcap and go to napa and get u a new one.

If you dont have a dollar for the button then soak it in brake fluid and it will soften and swell it up a tad and get you by for awhile.

Snug it up, then back it off a tad. Make sure the spring saddle still pivots.

If you are seeing bad tire wear, or can see your rear ends "floating" side to side in your mirror its time to get your trunion rebushed.

contact aatruckpartsjohn on ebay.. he has everything you need if your salvage yard doesnt have what u want. He is very good to deal with. everything will come shipped on a pallet.

measure the stud size on the axle cap, measure from the top outside of the hub to the first bearing race.

doing my second conversion next week. $150 per hub with studs and nuts and a good drum is fair. Buying all the studs and nuts and drums...after the fact is very expensive..so keep a good eye on what u are getting from the salvage yard or it will cost u when u assemble.

Also factor in new rimsX 8. Good used aluminums- $150 each.

$2000 for a conversion on two axles is getting by cheaply once u figure in the 4 new seals.

Well...thats not mine...

i was asking from the picture where to get those parts?

windshield logo, visor with MACK lettering, and the bumper addition.

getting my own christmas list together and trying to find some cool additions to my RD. Here is a few i need help on.

The logo on the windshield?

The chrome visor with Mack lettering on it?

and is that bumper addition custom?

this may be it...very crappy picture but maybe... googled the virgofleet and found this...

http://www.virgofleet.com/search_output_two.asp?PRODUCT_ID=CH630&LEVEL2CATEGORY=Air%20Breather%20Inlet%20Hoods&CATEGORY=Mack&MANUFACTURER=Air%20Breather%20Inlet%20Hoods&PageNo=1

http://www.virgofleet.com/‎ that link didnt work for me...says error.

searched iowa80 website..did not see the 'scoop' anywhere.

k thanks but the donaldson or maradyne dont look like this one... maybe someone else knows.

on the passenger side sticking up is a very nice 'ram air' style breather...but i cant find any that look like this.. any ideas?

The mixer is Marcos. Long story short.. he is a butthole of a neighbor. We parked a pickup on "his side" of the property line out near the road...and he came over there po'd said he was going to build a wall 20 feet high so that i would never park there again..and he didnt have to see all my dirty trucks (lol)..so next day he parked that mixer where its a sob to maneuver my trucks in my own lot... the mixer is the new "stay off my side of the fence" defender.

actually it kind of worked out for me...because when we get ups deliveries or parts..i just tell them to turn where the old mixer is near the road..lol.

I watched the Megatrucker shows on A&E its austrailian heavy hauling trucks that haul 100tons all across australia...so obviously they function and work as supposed to. check out this superliner with the sweet chrome rims.

Here is the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4AWGGVPUSE

had same problem.. went past 150..blew out the bottom of the air drier and to get it home ended up burning up the air pump.. total cost $1300 for a $15 part. I keep a spare now.

I have yet to find chome dayton (spider) (demountable) rims here in the good old usa. If you look at enough australian truck pictures they are almost entirely chrome.

I found a website that sells them

http://www.trucksales.com.au/buy/details.aspx?R=14247626&__Qpb=1&Cr=16&__Ns=p_StockRankSort_Int32|1||p_Make_String|0||p_Model_String|0||p_Year_Int32|1||p_StockPrice_Decimal|1&__N=1552+1715+1550+1600+1602+1601+4294958837&silo=1701&__No=15&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=1054&__sid=13F49A35E749

I am not going to buy from australia...but WHY cant you buy them here in the USA? Arent americans more apt to spend the money for these?

The other question is HOW would they work? i know that the rim clamps have to clamp against the rim to do their job, chrome wouldnt have much clamping ability would it? Maybe they have special clamps for these rims?

I know that i could drop a rim off at a chrome shop and have them chromed...but that would be expensive right? wouldnt the chrome be thin and the first clamp break the plating?

All this is curiousity... but i cant say that i wouldnt buy them at $250 a piece if i saw them on ebay.. because i really do think they set off a good set of daytons visually.

That black mack is Justin Goffs RD688. Over the winter he converted it from a quad axle to a triaxle, painted it black from maroon. It has a 400 with a John Deere Turbo, custom piping for it. Oversize injectors.. it is easily pushing 500hp. A true owner operators truck!!

1988 LTL9000 triaxle dump

The good: bed, floor and hoist in great condition. New clutch, 13 speed. Tires are good 70%. Drives up and down the road with no real issues.

The bad: 350 cummins bc4. Bottom hose cold, top hose hot. SO notorious BC4 cooling problems detected. Coolant is rust colored.
NO A/C. Never had it. Jake just makes noise..no stopping power.

This truck would legally haul 25 tons..but i dont think it would have enough power to pull most hills without alot of shifting. Plus would probably lose a load per day versus a higher hp truck.

I dont think i could work it myself...due to the cost of installing AC and i would probably end up repowering with a CAT or 400 BC3.

Is there a big enough market to buy this truck and expect to flip it for a profit?

What do u think its worth?

are u gaining oil on the dipstick? could be a broken tube or o-ring on the injector..spraying fuel under the valve cover causing u to lose prime.

Thats probably the last place u want to look if its not a blockage or trash in the system.

30K a year gross or net on that slag job? If its gross then to put a driver in that truck..will cost you $26000 in labor. 2000hrs @ $13/hr. not counting fuel. If its net..then you will lose money putting a driver in that truck..and u driving the new truck.

1 yr no worries trucking? Post here 1 yr later and let us know.

No breakdowns? Every truck owners prayer..mostly unanswered.

If u want my honest opinion.. Shop for a hell of a deal on a truck u like. Buy it. Put 110 to 130% in working it every day or night possible. After 12 months look at the bottom line. Payment/maintenance/fuel/insurance/taxes/ vs gross income... If you have money in your hand that you feel was worthwhile for the years worth of work..then by all means do it again the next yr.

I work alongside trucks that range from the 1980s to the 2014s the older trucks need more TLC than the newer ones, but the newer ones take alot of profit to keep those payments paid.

Do the best you can with what you can afford and give it your all.

Yea it was scarbro..sorry. I know that up on the hill there is a boneyard from hell..and the lower lot is balls to the walls with old iron..fords, macks, tractors and dumps. Parts laying everywhere.. the son has his own thing going to the right with tractors and trailers hauling coal. The old man doesnt seem to be working his trucks..just waits around for someone to ask what is for sale or what not.