37blackwood@comcast.net

Check out my gallery for pictures of my steel nose R. 35 years old and still working on a daily basis!

Thanks for the info Guys! I hate being a lab rat for aftermarket parts, but the price is right and I dont see many/ any alternatives. Sounds like a reputable company and a quality product. I will post my results once installed on the 285 and in the truck, hopefully before Christmas.

hi blackwood thats a nice steel nose you got there i have a dm with a 235hp your pics motivate me to keep working on my truck, soon i"ll up load my pictures haven"t been able because of surgery but soon i"ll be working again good luck and keep it that way

Don't Blame me when your $20 gand deep restoring your DM! Just joking! Hope you will be back at it soon. MY Photos don't show the rust/ rot on the cab I haven't got to fix yet.

How you goin mate? Your RD looks great. Why are they called an RD? Here in Australia they are just an R. Mine is an R615RS, the R meaning right hand drive and the S is for a 6 wheel tractor. I havent got mine to the stage in your photos, but its coming together slowly. Did you split the chassis rails on yours?

I believe, and I'm sure other will set me straight if i'm wrong, that The D in RD at least on the older models denoted a heavier speced truck. Double frame, heavy rear and front axles, steel bumpers etc. Thanks for the compliments, I take alot of pride in the old girl! Don't let those Pics fool you, there is plenty of rust/ rot I need to adress. Hoped to pick away at it, but the truck has been alot busier than I ever anticipated, nad havent had time. Maybe this winter.

It seems Jacobs no longer makes an engine brake for 2 valve Mack motors! There is however a company named TEC Brake that makes a Jacobs knock off. I'm wondering if anybody has any experience with TEC Brake's products? Good, Bad or other wise.

The old 237 ready to be replaced. I got another year out of it, was burning 1 gal of oil a day, it's now up to almost 2 gals. Thirty three years and never been apart. What a testament to QUALITY!!!!. I have a 285 tip Turbine for the old steel nose. Motor was Petigreed by Mack in 1994. Dropped the oil pan, rods & mains look like they just come out of the box.

Any how I would love to put a jake on it while doing the engine swap. However, Two Valve Jakes seem to be impossible to find here in Massachusetts. Wondering if anyone know of a line on one? Used Perfered but New is an option.

Also wondering about the offset parts neccessary for air duct to clear the valve covers when the jake is installed?

Any help/Info would be greatly Appeciated!

I was told the same thing as Lmackattack. Light pressure on the brake pedal or trolly will engage the divider. I have tried this when opposit axels are spinning, sure enough the others start to rotate. Very handy piece of info to have, especialy around this time of year. Use common sense! under low power at a crawl to avoid any damage. This tip has helped me walk out of some mud holes that other brand trucks would have needed a wrecker to get them out!

Very true about getting what you pay for w/ after market doors! There is a company, PAI industies that supplies non mack parts. They just dont have the quality but will work fine. I have used them, what I did was use spray on truck bed liner inside the doors, I like it better than undercoating for rust proofing. I also used Ice and Water shield that you use for home construction as sound deadener, works mint.

I'm looking into an engine swap for my 74rd. The 237 still running well, but burning a gallon of oil in 8-10 hrs of operation. It's only going to get worse once the temps warm up. Been told to look for a 2v 300 for a swap out. The problem is, with the steel nose on my truck, I think the air to air intercooler out of the question. Can you run a 300 2v with out the intercooler, and if you can is it still a 300?

Sorry for my ignorance! I was told there was a difference, obviously from someone who who doesn,t know his Mack from his elbow! Thank you for the correct info. I also read a post from HK trucking from back in september of 06 which explained just about any questions about eng size, color, displacement, power rating.

How do you determine if an ENDT 675 is a maxi or thermo? Besides emblems on the hood, or color the engine painted, neither of which seems like a reliable method.

Counterweight is a killer.

I stumbled across the video on this site, them found both on you tube. My wife thought I was watching porn sites. When she found me watching those mack videos she really though I was sick! Since then I have told everyone I know about them. Love the sound track, music to my ears!

Barry I'm still having a problem posting my photos. Please help!

aln61 Great setup , never seen that before.

What a coincidence, 2 1974RDs, mine has a 13.5ft dump. Tried posting some pics today, but kept getting an error message. love to see photos of yours.

Thanks HK, Turbo has been replaced because the seal was bad and filled the intake with oil. The oil has since burned of. I did however notice some oil streaking out of the rear ports of the exhuast manifold.

I pretty much figured it was the rings, just wishfull thinking. Truck still pulls a load very well, Just using an awfull lot of oil in the process.

I have a 1974 RD 685 w/237. I'm burning about 1 gal of oil in 8-10 hrs. Lots of blue smoke out the stack, however no excesive blowby out the crankcase breather. I'm wondering if the valve guides and seals are junk, not pistons and rings