dkv411

But look at how much fun you have

I guess that's what happens when you marry someone that comes from an urban setting and thinks farming sounds fun. Then she wants you to do a lot of the work because you been there and done that.

But look at how much fun you have

This has been an on going problem started with #6 exhaust bridge pin breaking two week's later #6 intake bridge pin broke. The dealer pulled the pan and found no shavings pulled an oil sample that came back good. Ever since the small shop I use replaced the first exhaust pin the #4 cylinder rocker bridge has been rattling when the dealer put the floating bridge in they replaced #4 bridge and 3 weeks later I took it in for a thumping through the intake # 4 valve at the front of the head was approximately 1\4 inch of lash. This engine was overhauled march of 13 but obviously didn't replace the cam.

Unfortunately the cam recall was done I believe around 200k we have all the maintenance records from the original owner. So far the only books I have been able to get my hands on are the ones from mack that are about a hundred pages long and has a very small section on cam removal.

That I knew about problem is all of a sudden they are saying that the cam is out of it or I broke a can follower and the estimate is almost 9 grand I'm trying to figure out if I'm getting hosed at this dealer

Overhauled a year and a half ago muzzle loader kit heads and new injectors. A month ago I broke a #6 exhaust rocker bridge pin a week later broke #6 intake pin had a rattling bridge #4 exhaust. Back to the dealer with a thumping through the intake they found on of the #4 valves with about a quarter of an inch lash. They put a floating bridge in #6 intake two weeks ago and pulled the pan and checked the can supposedly it was perfect. Does anyone have a clue as to what is going on with this engine? This was a very good running truck before the overhaul i overhauled it because I blew a head gasket and it was time. So who is screwing me?

Interesting reading but it is an intake yoke pin which is probably a good thing seeing as I thought I lost an injector and nursed it off the highway and parked.

So good possibility that my local shop has absolutely no clue on how to run my overhead. That does make me feel better as long as the parts show up today.

I have had a problem lately with the #6 rocker bridge guide pin breaking on the intake side. Had my local shop run the overhead and found the broken pin and with many calls to the dealer that did my inframe for proper procedure they replaced the pin. The next day I had a intermittent dry scraping sound from the back of the head. Found the rocker bridges lost tourqe. Two weeks later same scraping sound pulled the top off everything looked fine sounds went away. Approximately 400 miles later poof lost #6 intake bridge pin.towed into mack dealer in sw Michigan and checked cam and push tubes and visual inspection of the top side of the head everything is in perfect shape they are putting a floating bridge in(???) I had a complete inframe minus the cam in march of last year approximately 125k ago does anybody have a clue as to why this is an issue and will the new floating bridge fix the problem? Or should I sell it when and if I get it back?

2104-20892551 should be a new clutch. Do yourself a favor and buy the new clutch. Even Eaton's (Spicer's) own remans don't hold a candle to the lifespan of a new clutch. In the long run, you'll actually "save" downtime and money. The new clutch in a new truck typically lasts a long time. But when you swing to the path of remans, the clutch life is dramatially shorter. And, there's a noticeable difference in performance (engagement) too. Think about it.

The most important point for you to realize is the disc dampening design. This Eaton (Spicer) clutch is a Mack specific design that incorporates a unique "coaxially" dampening 9-spring disc design. It's different from the ordinary dampened 15.5" Spicer clutch at a parts store. The ordinary clutch will mount up, but it won't give you the same durability and performance. Ask Lynn at Tidewater. He can explain more about it.

Which means in just over 1 year of normal use you will blow the springs out of it and your supplier will claim driver abuse. Which also means you will be out 2 k if you do it yourself or approximately 5k if you have it done. Also factor in all the hardware that operates the clutch the linkage/cable all the bushings and the other crap down there.

Staxx one of the outer sections broke during disassemble. Hatcity thanks for th 1.75 inch i did know about the rtv to clear up that particular oil leak

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/21321-ch613-clutch-redo-after-a-year-need-help-figuring-out-problem/

this is my story including pictures hope this helps your decision

so my dumb a$$ only bought the center section of the manifold and well guess what? yup lost my load for monday and my truck is taking up space in my buddies shop oops.

i have a 99 613 with a 460 and mack 13 converted to the 18 speed it has been my experiance after replaceing my clutch for the second time at aproxamatly 387 days after the first clutch to BUY WHAT MACK RECOMENDS my first aftermarket clutch was $900 the one i purchased from mack was $1180 and i had to drive 6 hours one way to get the clutch i wanted at price the closer ones wanted $1400

Gonna do a test fit while im changing the manifold this weekend the boss has a stock 60 series Turbo on the shelf should be able to get a better grasp on different turbos from there gonna make more calls tomorrow i firmly believe i should find a suitable unit for under a grand

I'll definitely check the air compressor stuff that's what it sounds like is an air leak when in boost over 20 psi

Just picked up $500 dollars worth of parts here in Stevens point wi 1 center section all new studs and gaskets and got my buddy to come in and open his shop on Saturday and hang around if i screw it up. So much for a day off this week but it'll be fixed and the air 2 air completely checked with probably new hoses and clamps on it as well.

So far having a rough time finding a different Turbo to fit this without a bunch of fab work to the intake side to hook it up and that one was only $250 cheaper than a brand-new one figure ill eat that up in fab work so more calls to make tomorrow just have a hard time paying $1700 for a Turbo when i can get a monster Turbo for a Detroit for $900 otd. I do love my purebred but but i might have to get the torches and welder out and steal my bosses 850+ horse Detroit.

That's the plan for the weekend

It is cracked all the way to the Turbo flange i did the piping and connection from the charge air cooler and around the mounting points on the right side where i have bumper damage from a deer hitting me last night it was a fawn or doe no antlers

Either or k&s in Wisconsin told me that a bigger Turbo wont help me any with my 50 over injectors

Is there any other turbo's that'll fit a 1999 e7 460 other than a $1700+ that if been able to find so far?

1999 ch613 460 e7 im running higher than normal egt's and have a sucking sound while running 20#'s or higher boost visually the only thing i found is a crack in the center section will this cause what is seeming like a charge air cooler failure? Also wil i hurt my engine if its not repaired right away?

hope i did this right but here are the pics of the old clutch that was a year old and then two pics of the new clutch from a Mack dealer that they say is only one of 3 clutches that can go in this truck the other is a 4 padel

thanks all interesting information. What im finding from talking to a clutch guru from the vendor i used competitor is that my truck is in what they call the 50% of the macks that have to have a specific clutch built soely for and distributed by mack. havent been able to get on here to check these till today because i had to drive 7 hours one way to pick up the proper clutch in the 6 padel that i wanted i could have gotten a 4 padel today about 3 hours away for $300 more but i still saved money if you set my time aside. pics will follow soon