Waylon

Just thought I'd give you guys an update. All 6 unit pumps were ceised up tight. I put 6 used ones in and she fired right up. What a deal.

Thanks alot for the help guys. I'm gonna check them ground wires(for about the 15th time). I did check the EUP's at one point and I think they were reading 3.5v while the engine was spinning over but I will check them again to make sure. I think that the starter is pretty much screwed from trying to start it so much but it still seems to be spinning over good still. I'll try running a can of ether through it. (I'm at the point now after messing with it for almost a week)that I don't care. If it blows I'll yank it out and put a mechanical engine in it.

I dont know about mack electronics but cat DD or cummins will show rpm when running on starting fluid. So if yours will not then it may not be picking up the engine cranksensor. I am guessing the tack here is ecm driven.

I just checked it and the tach does show rpm when running on ether

Both lights on the dash do come on then go off. I put the ECU and VCU on another truck and it started no problem. I just took 6 injectors out of another engine and put them in and it still won't fire. I have checked continuity in all the wires from ECU to VCU and voltage/grounds at the ECU. If I unplug any of the sensors and turn the key on the ECU picks it up and gives the fault code.

They both apear to be the same. Is the procedure for checking valve timing on an E-Tech engine the same as a E7 mechanical(I have a 1989 E7 maual). I would think that it would at least try to start if the timing was off. It won't even try to start on its own but it will run good off ether(as much as I hate using ether). I thought that maybe the injectors were plugged but I wouldn't think that all 6 of them would be.

I set the engine using the marks on the flywheel. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the springs on the end of the push rods.I have bled the lines and now have fuel at the head on all cyl and it still won't start. The engine will run on ether but won't even try without it. All of the adjustment screws on the valves apear to be even. I don't have the proper dial indicator to check the timing so I'm now gonna pull the covers off another engine, put the fly wheel on 1/6 and check the push rod travel for comparison.

Would it hurt anything to crack it loose at the head and pull out on the tubes a little untill fuel was running out

It has a Jake on it and the push rods for the exhaust valves have springs on the top of them. I couldn't fin any info on how to set them so I set them with the spring pushed all the way down (compressed) with the feeler gauge under the rocker.

The engine dropped a valve in it about 3 years ago and we decided to do an inframe on it. The guy that started to rebuild it for me got sick. He got as far as putting in the sleeves and pistons and heads back on and it has been a basket case untill a couple of weeks ago untill I had time to put it back together myself. He had already done the valve settings on it so I pulled the covers and checked it out and everything seemed to be good.

I have over 100psi going to the block. Is there any way to test the unit pumps to see if they're working properly?

I've tryed bleeding it like that a couple of times. Always get quite a bit air then lots of steady fuel. I've done it at all 6 lines. It did read the proper fault codes for each sensor while they were unpluged.

Try starting it with the camshaft sensor unplugged, if it won't start that way plug it back in and unplug the flywheel position sensor.

Tryed that and still won't start, doesn't even smoke. I took the elbow out of the block for the fuel return and the check valve in it was ceased so I got it working and put it back together and still won't start.

When I had the return line elbow out of the block I pumped the hand primer and had fuel coming out the return. Is that normal? I don't have any fuel coming out of the small return line or in the fuel bridge between the heads.I also switched fuel pumps with a truck that was running fine.

You should be able to do that, as long as they're both Pre-CCRS or CCRS it shouldn't be a problem. Pre-CCRS engines have a fuel return line (small plastic line) from the head to the block, CCRS engines do not have this line. It may not run quite right if the modules from the 1999 have service files.

They are both Pre-CCRS. I changed them over last night and it still wouldn't start. With the old ECU & VCU there was no fault codes but after I changed them I now get fault codes 13, 21, 23. I have read some of your posts on here were you have helped out others with the same problem and followed alot of your troubleshooting steps. I have checked continuity on all wires, cleaned all grounds, checked fuel pressure and rechecked valve settings. I'm not sure of anything else that I can do and I'm about ready to tow it to the dealer. If you have any suggestions I would really appreciate the help.

Thanks

I have a 2000 CH613 with a 460 and I can't get it to start. I was wondering if I could swap the ECU and VECU off a 1999 CH613 with a 427 in it just to see if that's my problem.

Thanks

I have a 2000 E7 460 that has been sitting for 3 years. I recently put new pistons and liners in it and now it wont start. I've been messing with it off and on for a week now and I'm about ready to pull it outside and burn it. Ive cleaned all the grounds and have checked for power at the ECU at pins 10,22,41. I have changed all the relays and checked them for power as well. I have switched all sending units with an engine that was running fine. I think the ECU seems to be working but I'm noo 100% sure. If I disconnect any of the sending units it will display the fault code for that perticular sending unit. That tells me that the ECU is at least working some what. Is there any way to check the ECU without any Diagnostic Software?

Any help would be great!

Thanks Waylon

I checked the voltage from the VECU on wire VJ3-13 that supplies power to the relays and it is around 11.10 volts should it be at 12