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shanes

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Posts posted by shanes

  1. Yeah there were heaps of them down here in NZ.

    There are a couple of interesting ones in the pics above.

    The top one was actually a daycab and has had a sleeper box added to it, it's also a Series 60 Detroit.

    If you look closely at the grab rail on the blue one with the green trailer, you can see it is attached to the side of the cab... it was one a few daycabs that were extended when it was built.

  2. Uh, actually if you leave it in gear and hold the clutch pedal up off the floor(off the brake) then you don't have to push the clutch to get it into gear when you move again, thus no use or wear of the clutch brake.

    Yes... that's pretty much what I was meaning.... :)

  3. Grind it into gear? get a new clutch brake or get it adjusted properly.

    Totally agree with that... just seems that you see some guys grind, or maybe crunch is a better word... it into gear.

    Pulling it into neutral once stopped also saves wear on the clutch brake as it doesn't have to stop the spinning clutch.

    • Like 1
  4. What I find handy is leaving it in gear until you have come to a stop... obviously pushing in the clutch :)

    Doing this means that everything in the box has stopped spinning, so you won't have to grind it into the gear you'll take off in.

  5. got it. seen a diesel running on it's own oil before and it was a scary sight. I am the eternal optimist and hope that the engine will turn with a little tlc. just hope that the neighbours are ready for the noise and smoke.

    I start mine every couple of months... I usually wait until Sunday morning when the neighbours are at Church... the prevailing wind normally fills their yard with smoke... :whistling:

  6. I think the plunger handle just tighten and loosens by twisting and locks in when all the way down mine is too tight to twist by hand and I didn't try pliers on it to tonight. My archives is just what I refer to my stash of parts out in the shop.

    On mine it doesn't seem to lock by twisting, there is a U shape piece that swivels up over the top of the plunger, the U piece has a threaded bit that tightens onto the plunger to hold it in.

    You can see the U piece in pics 1 and 3, it looks like the threaded bit is missing.

    Let me know if you need a pic, but I won't see the truck in daylight for a few days...

    Hopefully you get what I am meaning.

  7. I've got an old Superliner that I am restoring, basically a back yard complete strip down, so it is going to take a while :)


    At the moment I start it every month or so, but have got to the stage where I need to remove the air start and fuel tanks.


    Any ideas on the best way to prepare the motor for storage ?


    Drain the fluids or leave it wet ?


    Turn it over occasionally, or try and set it up to start it out of the frame ?


    I've attached the mandatory picture of the last weekends progress :)

    post-7716-0-87599500-1363388966_thumb.jp

  8. I ordered the E9 overhaul manual 5-102 from Auto Repair Manuals, shipped out Nov 5, arrived on 19th.. took two weeks with usps to run the border!!!

    the manual is a 2000 copy of the 1993 second printing and the text/picture clarity suffers a bit but all info is there and readable.

    I'm happy.... been watching on evil-bay for a year, bought a few others but this one has eluded me.

    just got to get my other project done and I can get on with the MH.... one at a time or I end up with nothing to drive..!!! :twothumbsup:

    BC Mack

    After reading this thread I ordered from autorepairmanuals.com on the 7th, arrived today the 20th, and that's to New Zealand.

    Similar reprint as above, but looks good.

  9. You can clear up a lot of the rust between the rails by using an air hammer. You'll be surprised how much rust will come out between the rails. Get some good ear and eye protection and have at it.

    Someone has told me that is how the Mack dealer over here deals with this too in some cases.

  10. Slathering POR 15 between the rails will just make it harder to do right.

    The only way to fix it right is the hard way- separate them--

    Thanks, I had found your thread, that's one of the reasons I started this one, I just wasn't sure if I had a big problem and needed to yet.

    The strange thing about the rust, is the frame has quite bad surface rust, but the cab is pretty good...

    BTW you couldn't give me a rough idea of the weight of a rail ? My restoration is going to be a bit "back yard" as well.

    cheers

  11. Hi

    I'm looking at buying an old Superliner, but it has a bit of frame rust.

    I didn't think it looked too bad, and intend to pretty much completely strip it down and sand blast it.

    Should I split the inner and outer rails ?

    What do you guys reckon ? Too much work ?

    Thanks for any advice :)

    post-7716-0-30785000-1348227909_thumb.jppost-7716-0-63239700-1348227939_thumb.jp

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