kuhar69

Any suggestions about what motor/tranny to look for?? I don't know anything about the old models so I need advice about brakes and if the truck was repowered what is good and what is a poor combination.

And steering what do I need for easy going modern steering

Guys I'm throwing around the idea of picking up a B model tractor and mounting a small 5-6 yard 10' body on it maybe even making it a single axle with a small drop axle.

Things to consider these days...

Will it comply with Connecticut DOT

Will it run all day 5 days a week

What engine tranny and gears do I need

Is this even a good idea?

I would love to have a bad ass B model single axle dump truck to add to my RB688S Tri axle.

It's boring to own one of the ford or other smaller single axle trucks with dumps

Any ideas?

Thanks Mark

New Hope trucking

Greenwich CT

I see the Warner's sell for $475 the Hayes is $225. Both of these work on the same principle correct??

I'm gonna go with the Hayes air actuated electric controller.

Ok smart idea now I think I'm gonna call a guy and get one made. I have a RB688s can I still use my extended mounts from Mack?? Somebody mentioned I might have to use DM mounts for some reason. Combs manufacturing is under the same impression??.

I don't wanna be the guy to give a wrong measurement to Combs?? Any suggestions

Ok Staxx I will also check those two points out

Ok we found the problem when Mack pulled out the tranny ( the tranny and injecter work was done after the dump body was rebuilt) Mack broke the wire that indicates the P T O is engaged. The pto light got its power from the wire going from the cab to the rear body that fed the running lights

I just spoke to a gee from Hayes controllers they say the best option with that heavy of a load is the air actuated model it works off the trucks air brakes somehow??

I have all led lights. The marker switch and the headlight switch light up when turned on. The relays are all good. There was never a issue untill I had the body rebuilt and a pintel plate installed with new led lights. I have the same amount of lights I don't have20 lights just 2 red and 2 reverse lights

Dimmer switch is good we replaced the headlight switch for the heck of it. Stand on the brake pedal I have brake lights put it in reverse I have lights turn signals all work. The two outside cab lights work but the 3 in the middle and all the body lights don't work.

Frustrating I'm ready to kill myself

I want a similar style bumper on my truck like the ones here in the picture. How do you tow or pull the truck out of the mud if the bumper is so wide that it covers the tow attachment points on the bottom of the frame??

I have a 2003 RB688S Tri axle dump truck I need to tow a Cam superline trailer which is a 14,000 GVWR 12,000 lbs carrying capacity.

The trailer has electric brakes on both axles.I have a RV plug on my pintel plate. I have been told to install an air actuated electric brake controller??? I never heard of one is this good advise????

Two part problem: one the truck just had the body rebuilt by one guy. When he was done Reading PA truck center picked up the truck from him and replaced injectors and a clutch job and replaced my overhead console because it cracked and they replaced my heater box cover because the grey worn off and looked like poop. Mack went over the truck and confirmed none of there work could have caused the wiring issue??

I discovered the no running lights when I backed the truck out of Mack's bay door and did my pre trip inspection. The body shop had me bring the truck back to him (8 miles down the road) he cannot find the problem. I'm loosing my ass in business.

Any suggestions??

What I did a few years back was ordered the center bullet light from mack and then bought the other 4 lights from a chrome shop. the style and bulb type were all the same, If you want LED you can buy LED "bulbs" that fit the socket. you can get the bright LED bulbs from $5-$14 each. Check out this site for bulbs

http://www.truxaccessories.com/main/LED_Bulb.html

This is why I love this site!!! Ok let me try that idea.

Thanks a lot I'll let you know how i Make out

The lights that are on here are truck-lite brand only 2 LED's in each light they look so out of place the truck should have the torpedo's the truck just does not look like how it should every mack buff breaks my balls!!!!

Have you tried Iowa 80?

www.iowa80.com

I have seen those on Iowa 80 but they all measure 15 1/2" long. The middle light has to be a little guy so you can open the vent. Im wondering if I can cut one down to the size I need and retap a mounting hole seal the back of the light of the section I cut off and call it a day??????

Ok so its been brought to my attention like a repeat bad dream that the clearence lights on my 2003 RB788S are not the correct lights. Now when I bought the truck it has 2 LED bulbs per light x 5 lights. On 3 different times Mack fans brought to my attention that these are not the correct lights the last owner must have pulled a fast one and switched the torpedo lights for these cheesy lights I have now. I wanna put on LED torpedo lights but I cant find the short center light so that I can open the roof vent. Does anybody have any advise on these lights suggestions are welcome

Guys I have a 2003 RB6888S Dump truck it has a Fiberglass sunvisor on the cab but it makes the worst noise on the highway. I checked the bolts they look good and tight. It almost seems it needs a support on the back side of the visor???. Do i just man up and buy a stainless steel unit or can somebody please stop the noise for me!!!!

Well we have been trying to solve my no pulling power issuie with this truck and it was discovered that on the "hot side of the Turbo" there was regular band clamps holding on the hoses. We replaced the hoses and the clamps with the correct Mack style clamps and also found the plastic nuts on the air cleaner were stripped so the top is not air tight. We replaced the nuts on the air cleaner and with the new hoses and the right style clamps holding the hoses on the air cleaner and the turbo I have better power cause the truck aint losing air from air leaks. Much better!

Next the truck is going into the shop to disconnect the fault that derates engine power via the speedo sensor. The mechnic feels that the computer may show another area to gain some more power but we need the computer to take the next step.

Stay Tuned!

Rhsler I had a bad linkage to the leveling valve the cab is ok now that was easy!!.

Now If I could have a chance to fix my no pulling power.

Mark

Guys that are helping me with this power loss problem. Im still busy I have not had the Mechnic look at the problem so in the meantime Im moving like a snail. Stay tuned the NEW Mechanic is gonna start fishing around tommrow night.

Ok I will check that out on google. I have been hearing different things. The chrome is worn away real bad which is weird for a 2003 but I dont think this bumper was the origanal the guy before me could have thrown on a spare.It just looks like shit the radiator chrome guard is real nice thats why i wanna clean up the bumper with paint rather than spend 600 on a new bumper.

Mark

Hi Guys I was gonna go thru the motions today with all the information you guys gave me but the truck got hired for the day so that was that.Thurday and Friday i cant look at it so that leaves me into Monday I will keep everybody informed stay tuned.

Thanks again for the help.

Mark

The RB didn't have an electronic dash so even the factory installed guages were mechanical. You just need to remove one of the 1/8" pipe plugs from the intake manifold and install a 1/4" ferrule x 1/8" NPT fitting in the manifold, attach a length of 1/4" nylon air tubing, route it into the cab along side the oil pressure line, and hook it up to a new boost guage. This would help a lot in troubleshooting low power problems.

Ok so i will install one Im about spending a little money if it's gonna help preventing a problem down the road.

Hell is sure beats a New truck payment!!.

This truck works man no leaks no fuss love it nice truck so far.

Guys my front Chrome bumper is anything but chrome at this point. I would like to maybe use a Plasma cutter to cut a couple of holes for LED lights and then paint the bumper Mack red like my cab. A guy told me to check on this he said even thoe the chrome is faded away he said he is not sure that paint will stick to the steel.

Anybody know anything about this??.

Mark