Timothy B Demarco

replace the quick release valve for the front brakes. Make sure the crack pressure is .10

I deal with alot of 425 tires. They can be tricky. Try putting 14 oz of counter balancing beads in the tire if you can. I had a truck I just 425's on and two weeks later the driver he has a bad wobble in the front. The first thing I did was check the runout and sure enough, the tire had bulge on the inside and after i replaced it no more wobble.

First off check your engine position sensor on the side of the pump. When they go bad it screws up the timing. Then have your injectors tested, while in there adjust your valves and jake unit. Give that a shot if that doesn't work have the pump rebuilt.

Low on freon, recharge the system and check your A/C relay. Also check the belt. After that go from there.

check your spring pins or loose u-bolts or bad drag link. Maybe bad kingpins

Depending on your front steer tires, jack up front end and check to see if any of your steer tires are out of round. Just put a small sledge hammer beside and in the front of the wheel and check the runout.

whens the delivery date on them granades

fluids are good maybe a bad carrier bearing

what will cause a rear to howl.

I appreciate the advice but it is a different animal. It has a fuel cavity running through the head in which your injector sits through it

I have a 8.2 non turbo 4 stroke Detroit Deisel. I was wondering how fuel can enter the oil.

Well I'm going to start by pulling the valve covers and check my lines at the fuel injectors

I just checked my oil and i have a huge problem. The oil is way past the full mark and it smells like fuel in the oil which might be my problem. So that means something is screwed up

Well here is the deal I checked everything yall said and come to find out this cab was a protoype cab for Mack. They had the malfunction light rigged, way behind in the dash is a switch that switch turned the malfunction light on and off for what reason i don't know. Thanx for all the help Littlerig

And here we have the answer- Why do they call Detroit's "road oilers?

I like that one ROAD OILER. It is an 8.2 non turbo 4 stroke, but she does scream and when it screams she blows the oil. I had a guy pull up beside me and flick me off because i sprayed oil all over is white car. It's wierd it blows oil out at a certain RPM mainly around 2500-3000.

My 1996 CH 613 with a 300 wont start outside but will start inside. All of the fuel lines are good with no leaks, New fuel filters, New hand primer. Once it fires up its good all day long. Wierd thing is that the primary filter sounds empty and the secondary is full. Any questions????

I have a 1982 Ford F-600 with a GM Detroit V8. I just need some help on finding out some things about it. For one it blows oil out of the breather tube at certain rpms

I need a wiring diagram for a 1996 CH 613 V-Mac 2

I am working on a project. I recently removed a cab that was layed over and removed it from its chassis. I put a new cab on the same chassis. It is a 1996 CH 613 with a E-400 Manual fuel pump. Now this cab was a test cab and I finally got the girl running. I took the V-Mac computer out of the old cab and put it in the new cab, and also changed the computer harness outside of the firewall. The electronic malfunction light is on and stays on and the truck runs fine. Wierd thing is that it wasn't on with the old cab. So I got the fan on all the time and every wire is connected. So feel free to help out.

I'm having the same trouble on my CH. All of my headlights work, trailer lights work, and TURN SIGNALS WORK. I traced wire by wire for hours and found a wire corroded in the back of the relay box on drivers side engine firewall in cab marker lights relay.

Some times a head gasket,BULLHUSK

10-4 Allowing water in combustion chamber and its trying to combust that water

I was just wondering what cause a piston to crack in three different places on top of the piston.

Check the fuel return jumper (from head to head)between the valve covers. They have rubber o-ring/seals that start to leak after many years and can let air in and let fuel drain back to tank on some types of injector pumps(depending on the type of overflow valve on the injector pump) I think it takes a 7/16 wrench, just tighten the 2 nuts usually they are really loose.

I will check that out and I will send back what I discovered. THANX

My 1993 CH613 starts fine inside. Leave it outside and well you have to put either to it to get it going. When it gets going it will run rough for matbe 10 seconds, then it clears up. It has a new starter, fuel filters and a drainback valve. I'm puzzeled any ideas would be a great help.

Stand directly over the front over your motor and look down between the front of the head and water pump, you'll see a small fuel return line running from there down to the fuel lines near the injection pump. Follow that line (maybe 2 feet long or so) and see if there's any signs of seepage.

I had that problem with mine...cranked and cranked it till it would finally start...it was seeping where it hooks to the head...it wasn't dripping, just damp. I replaced that line and it was good as new.

Thanxs for the help i found the problem. The starter was dragging not letting the engine crank faster. and the actuator was messed up

If you have a manual priming pump does it feel as if there is resistance, or like your compressing air? Both of your filters should remain full when the engine is shut down. If they are draining back you could have the check valve inoperable, or an air leak in the system. Do you notice any seepage leaks from fuel anywhere?

Rob

The manual priming pump has resictance, and i am checking the lines for seepage right now. and also trying to figure out this check valve