Flynpenguin

5 hours ago, fjh said:

Really surprised you got that out of there it’s usually a hammer and chisel show!

I had a 1/2" drive draglink bit that I ground down slightly to fit. I had to take off the upper intake manifold and then lightly tapped it with an impact wrench. I tried by hand with a long ratchet,  no go.

I'm chasing down a low fuel pressure problem on my E9. The engine is hard starting. Idle fuel pressure is less than 5psi and the max fuel pressure is 20 psi. I think the issue lies in the overflow valve, or rather, the lack of one. My return line goes directly back to the tank without restriction from the injection pump.

My dress is the stock overflow valve is no longer available, NTS in Edmonton shows out of stock.

What are my options for a non-stock overflow valve?

Thanks for the help.

I ordered a set. I'll know next week how it turns out.

53 minutes ago, JoeH said:

Snap a picture of the brackets you have and we can yay or nay one style or the other for grommets.

I'm not at the truck for a week or so. 

The rear brackets are single 3/4“ bolt, the mount hole is 2 inch diameter. The front mount is double 3/4". I think the front uses the same mount.

I put the engine and trans in from an 84 MH in 93. The original rear mounts were urethane but they disintegrated and I can't remember what they looked like. 

My 83 Superliner is need of front and rear engine mounts. Since it's a glider kit I don't have a vin to look for part numbers. And the rear mounts totally disintegrated leaving only the bolt, washers and internal spacer.

I found these on the internet... Are they the correct items?

Thanks in advance. 

Which set of boxes do you have? The Quad in my 66 R is a 5th over. 1 thru 4 are split under-direct-over, but 5th is 5th over only. 5th direct is the same speed as 4th over.

Thanks for the info Brad. My question regarding the removable axle caps was whether the hubs for one-piece axles would fit my housings, which have a surface outboard the retaining nut for the seal in the removable caps. Do the hubs for one piece axles have enough clearance behind the axle flange to clear the housing? I'd prefer to use hubs/drums for wedge/s-cam brakes with the removable axle caps, but the only budd hubs I have are for one-piece axles.

Between my brother and I, we have a '55 LTH (300 with 5x2x3), a '56 B (Thermodyne with Triplex), a '83 RW Superliner E9-575 with 10x4 (that I built from a glider) and a '51 Chevy COE that are all licensed and daily drivers. Out in the boneyard is a '65 B (2nd owner), a '66 RL 3 axle with Cummins 400 (2nd owner), a '66 RL 2axle with Chrysler 413, 3 Sterlings from the mid '40s all with Cummins 150, a '55 Ford F250, a '41 Willys (not a Jeep), A '67 Narrow nose Pete, a '47 Chevy COE, a '56 IH Metro, and '49 Ford F6. In the shop right now is a '43 White 1064. And I won't even try to list all of the Nortons, Ariels and Triumphs in the other shop.

The roto-chamber narrow brakes on my LT are in need of some serious attention, not to mention they are sorely lacking in stopping ability. What does it take to retro fit later model hubs and wide brakes with standard #30 chambers? I have 2 sets of R model bogies with S cam brakes, tho the have spoke hubs. Do wedge brake drum/hubs interchange with S cam drum/hubs? My LT hubs have renovable splined axle caps. Do hubs with one piece axles interchange?

What does ride height have to do with anything, what could it possibly affect? Except for steering geometry, and pinion angle, a good ride down the road, what else. Keep in mind that you are working off two different platform's which may or may not have had even the same tire size. When you get it set the way you want it, on a level pad put a level on the frame rail. If your set up is right it should be very close to level. Check your pinion angles, a guage is not expensive at all, when the angles are right, you can go back to them on PM.

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I found on my Superliner with Neway that ride height directly affected the ride. As the height increase, the ride quality decreases both loaded and unloaded. This isn't as much a function of air pressure as it is the position of the volute inside the air bladder. On my truck, aluminum frame and full size 24.5's, the ride is best when the top of the tyre tread is level with the top of the Holland 5th wheel slider frame. As little as 1/2" higher is results in a harsher ride.

Wow. My LT was originally sold in Oroville, California, to K&S Equipment Co. I guess LT's were popular in that area.

My '55 LTH was sold new in Sacramento, Cal, and the '55 LTL I've used as a parts donor was sold by the dealer in San Francisco. I've been told that the dealer in Sac sold quite a few LT's.

Mack top loading tandems have five oil level compartments to maintan, three on the front rear and two on the rear rear, they all have drain points. None of the oil is shared except the lower housing, it is shared with the hubs.

FW

There is no seal to keep the oils apart. The oil level in the upper is maintained at the level of the cross shaft bearing, which is the same level as the fill plug. As counter intuitive as it seems, if you have a leaking pinion seal, the oil level in the lower compartment goes down since the oil in the upper is replaced by oil from the lower. The oil level in the power divider is also maintained at the level of the bearing. Many of the side covers for the front differential even have a sloping shelf that catches oil as it is flung around by the gears, and drains into the front bearing to provide some circulation.

Here are a couple of shots of my favorite dozer, a mid 50's LGP D8 14A. The new LGP D8R's are faster, push more snow, and are definitely more user friendly, but when it comes to pulling heavy loads over soft snow, nothing beats the old cats.

Three remain out of the 50 or so built. Most were abandoned on the ice by the Seabees when the Navy operated the US Antarctic Research Program for the National Science Foundation. The Navy was notorious for leaving equipment where it sat when they were finished with it or when it broke down. Almost all of the tractors shipped back for disposal were scrapped, though there is one at the Seabees museum at Port Hueneme near Oxnard, Cal.

Thanks. It's been a long time since I last pulled some drop ins and I'd forgotten about the flange and inside ears. As soon as I finish fitting the new hood and send it to the painter, I'll move to the back end and start on the rear ends.

My 55 LT has the rear end housings which use 6each 1/2" bolts positioned fore and aft, 2each 3/4" bolts on the right side, and 2each 3/4" through bolts on the left side. The rear housing is stamped 1QFA5272AP6, and SWD 52. I have a set of drop ins from an early B model stamped CRD93-15-39, which uses 10each 5/8" bolts. My existing drop ins are 8.31, and I'd like to use the B model drop ins since they are 5.03. The LT has good straight housings with very good brakes and light springs, and the B model brakes are junk, the springs are much heavier, and the front housing is pranged, is it possible to ream the holes on the B model drop ins to 3/4 so they can be installed in the LT housings?

Thanks. I'll scuff the paint with a scotch-brite pad and see if it shows up.

Yep, there it is, under 3 coats of paint.

Outside of right frame rail above the steering axle.

Thanks. I'll scuff the paint with a scotch-brite pad and see if it shows up.

I have an '83 Superliner. It has an aluminum frame with steel drop sections extending from the cab to the radiator. I built the truck from a glider in 83, and while I'm sure that I found the VIN when I licensed it at that time, I can't remember where it is. I am retitling it to get an Historic Plate and the Cal DMV will want to verify the number. I suppose it may be under paint, but I've inspected the frame carefully and there is no sign of a number anywhere. Anyone have any ideas where I should be looking?