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b615rich

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Posts posted by b615rich

  1. How's the parking brake? With no air and brakes locked on should hold quite well. If not, you need to re-check adjustment, linings, etc. Your discard diameter would say you still have some allowance for wear, so unless the surface is bad you should still be able to achieve adequate performance. What you describe is usually adjustment or brake control valve. PS - sad to hear '87 is now "old". I remember our first new truck an '82 MR. First with real power steering, no twin sticks or split rear, and actually incredible brakes. Almost went through the windshield! Goog luck

  2. Like I said - a lot of good advice. Vinny (aka "umodelnut") may be weighing in on the U. Some people love that offset cab. Most U's seem to have been spec'd heavy. Most dealers and the Mack museum can look up build details. I love R models, but for a classic you can run there are a lot ofB's out there. Harder to work on, and metal vs. a fiberglass, and cab smaller - but they do turn heads. Good luck - let us know what you decide.

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  3. Welcome. Based on your comment I'd assume you are thinking of a hobby, not so much a true work truck. Both trucks look nice but that R looks like it could be a find. The 237 hp w/ a 5-spd. was in its day a great set up. Only complaint I had on the 237 in 82' was it idled a little rough - but otherwise you will see it's surprisingly powerful. I am partial to R's, they still have a classic look. The U is an offset cab (just in case, you'll see the door is flush with the left side of the body, the right mirror is on a long bracket off the air cleaner). The U is easy to drive and they always seemed easy to turn and were typically spec'd heavy. I'd take a good look at the R first. Only other advice is they aren't too expensive to buy, or insure as antiques, but they are expensive to fix, store, have towed, etc. That said, a nice dump at a good price holds it's value well. Have fun, and don't be afraid to ask. Guys on the site have tons of knowledge.

    • Like 1
  4. I guess we're all thinking about filters. I was going to change the spin on fuel filter on the Cummins NTC 855 (small cam). Looks like only the one. Any experience with priming or any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

  5. Came fast from "starterdaddy" (silly name but highly rated) on e-bay. Packed really well. Got it in, so much lighter than the old one. Engine turns right over. I had wondered about my batteries but the reduction unit does really well, seems batteries are more than adequate. Good to have something new but do appreciate all of the the advice. Onward.

  6. So I got the starter out and put on a new solenoid. Bench tests fine but guy at auto electric showed me the replacement reduction gear unit. Much lighter and rated about 20-30% more powerful (7kw). Anyone had any luck with these? Worth $300 for faster cranking rpm? A generic unit so not sure they are as repairable as the Remy's. The 41 has been superseded by the 42, I know a good unit but about $450-500 new.. May just put the old one in but wondering if worth an upgrade. ?

  7. Well, tried the three screws and although the starters not too rusty two of the screws were frozen tight. No room so I pulled the starter. Yes, it's heavy. So, first looks like the spacer between the starter and block is cracked (the ring or sleeve is separated from the three hole flange). A Cummins part I assume. To get the solenoid off I had to remove the nut holding it on the lever. It doesn't seem to pull apart (the plunger is held in the solenoid). Is there further disassembly to get to the contacts? I see a tiny snap ring on the shaft O&G the plunger. Or? Thanks again, first I have to get the OEM spacer so I've got a little time.

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