haus4350

great ideas guys. i will try the jumper wire and see what happens. i fired the truck up this a.m. and it idled for 20 minutes and nothing happened. yesterday evening it wouldnt idle 3 minutes. i am caught up with harvest right now so i will look into it further and post back.

thanks guys

code? i dont get any code. just the two lights and then it shuts down. i am a farmer and a steering wheel holder. dont claim to be a trucker.

i dont have a manual or anything. i have a 98 and 99 CH613. need to invest in a manual.

my mack started shutting down today own its own. the shutdown and electrical malfunction light illuminates and then it shuts off. the over ride button does not work. it will die anyhow. it is not low of water and i tried unhooking the sensor that plugs into the coolant resevior with no luck. it idid this twice before in one day two months ago and then no problems until today.

any one ever have this problem??

thanks.

need to adjust clutch. it engages all the way at the top and have no free play. how hard is it to do? any special tools?? never done this before. i got a older guy that drives one of my trucks (hauling grain out of field) and says he can do it in 30 mins, but i dont trust him and looking for some tips or advice.

thanks.

pulled the panel off to access the squirrel cage fan and the coils. first thing i noticed was a plastic insulator from a wire that had been melted off. it came off a ground wire from the cage fan. then i noticed a plug that had been poorly bypassed with a split wire and eletrical tape. i am assuming the ground wire got hot and it was next to the plug so it got the electrical tape hot and it came loose, then the wire vibrated out and the plug was no longer bypasses. i re bypassed the plug and i had fire back to the clutch and low pressure switch. i added another ground wire and it seemed to help with the ground wire getting hot!! glad to have it fixed for now.

what causes a ground wire to over heat??

thanks for your help

thanks. i will check it out tommorrow and post back if i have time. hopefully it will be dry enough to get back to harvesting wheat. also have the local Case IH mechanic coming out to try and fix it.

rhasler,

coud you repost or email me that diagram with what you are talking about circled or a big arrow pointing to it? i dont see the item to the left of the blower motor on the diagram. i know this is like pulling teeth and i apologize, if you dont know, you dont know!

thanks.

skylerhays@gmail.com

rob, i am assuming i know the proper direction to follow, but will you spell it out please? you know what assumtion does!! i am guessing i need to follow the 1000nd wires that the clutch and binary switch wires feed into and see where they are losing power at...1000nd wires...shouldnt take too long!! thanks for the help

I don't know about your truck but in automobiles the a/c clutch is actually pulled in by the engine ECM. If the truck is like cars, you will either need to flash the ECM, or disconnect the batteries for about 30 seconds to dissolve the latched fault code.

The a/c system is prolly low on refrigerant and this caused it to be locked out as a precaution. I would not external power the clutch until you know the system has no other faults. If it is low on charge, it can't oil itself and if forced to run, destruction of parts soon follows.

Rob

my brother put his gauges on it and said it might be a 1/2 low. he works for CAT as a field mech. woulndt the clutch stay engaged all the time when it 95 and heat index of 105? i understand about no lubrication due to low 134-a.

the a/c went out on the first day of wheat hauling. the clutch on the compressor quit engaging so i checked all the fuses and everything was ok there. I do not have any power coming down the the clutch or the low pressure switch(the mack guy said it does both, he called it a binary switch) $54 new, by the way). i hot wired it today from a wire of my pick up battery and it works fine. (but i also have to run a ground from my truck battery to the compressor to make fire go through the hot wire..dont know if that is normal or not. also the ref. is not low.

i thought about hot wiring power to the clutch and low pressure switch and putting an inline fuse in there. bad idea? what would be the cause of no power coming to the clutch or low pressure switch if all the fuses are good?

thanks!!

got a friend trying to sell me his truck...he found a deal he couldnt pass up and bought a newer one...its an 82 KW 900. rear 8 tires are 75% virgins and the front tires are 70%. it has a 425 cat in it with a eaton 15 spd. truck looks good. drives runs and shifts good. he said he would take $8500. we are farmers and will put less than 7500 miles a yr on one...it does have an aluminum frame...what do you think?

thanks.

yes it does have a coolant filter....truck has 20k hours on it....i have no engine history...was gonna tear into it this winter...i only haul grain with it and use it 3 months a year...

i put two cans of dyke brand stop leak and two gallons of antifreeze in it...so far it has not leaked any more coolant into the crankcase...any ideas on where the coolant could be leaking from if the stop leak solved the problem?

also...the oil is onot turning gooey and milky in the blowby filter now since the coolant is not getting into the oil...will the coolant and water steam out of the oil or will it be in there until i change the oil

should have put the stop leak in there sooner...thanks.

Are you sure that the oil/coolant isnt from your oil cooler starting to fail??

all i am sure of is that i have coolant in the oil per an oil sample......not sure how much coolant because you can not tell from the dip stick...please tell me how to start looking for the oil cooler failing....i have some time over the weekend because it is still raining...thanks.

north al. no cotton thank goodness...or corn either this year. still have about 1250 acres of 1500 acres of beans to go. my 4s were 20-36% damage...anything over 20% only sells for $5 a bushel....ouch! gonna put up some bins....could have built a big bin with all these discounts this yr.

so you think it will be ok to run it with out the mesh filter?...plan to rebuild motor this winter...hope it hangs on long enough for me to get my crop out. thanks

posted about this before on here...getting coolant in oil and it is stopping up the wire mesh filter that is attached to the blow by tube causing me to lose a gallon of oil a day through the vent on the oil filter housing....will it hurt to run the motor with out the mesh filter? what about stop leak to get my by until winter...( use truck to haul grain)

ok thanks guys...dont have an air clutch...it runs all the time...what about a diff. thermostat? will idle at 800-1000 rpm and keep check on the coolant level...thanks again

mackpro68,

you were exactly right...thanks for the tip....the canister was completely full of the gooey stuff(and the oil filler tube when i changed the oil last week)...no milky stuff though...the wire screen was full of water when i squeezed it....the blow by tube was even full of the gooey stuff...should have known something was up bc i was noticing the gooey stuff coming out of the blow by tube and landing on front axle/suspension parts....why would there be water in the wire mesh filter? i noticed after i put it all back together i noticed i had a few drops of water from the blow by tube...also what causes the gooey stuff? the truck runs at 180 degrees...but i will be doing alot of idling (4-6 hours) while waiting to dump by grain at the elevator

thanks guys...good info will check it out tomm. and see what i find...my local mack parts man is an ahole....i took him the vent today and told him i wanted a new one...he said he didnt have any and would have to order 10...couldnt order 1....he said to plug it!?

ok...thanks for the info...what do you think would be causing it to leak??

i looked at a 98 model and it looked like mine...i looked at a 93 model and it had the setup like you talk about...i wonder how my motor came from the factory? it looks like an oem vent...it has a cap on it...i may go to the mack place tommorrow...they are not much help for a small timer like myself...thanks guys

changed the oil the other day...noticed i have a leak today...i think it is coming from the relief valve or pop off valve on the canister type oil filter...what is this relief valve for and how do i stop the leak?? didnt notice it the little valve was threaded or not...what exactly does this oil filter do? it has a rubber hose that connects to the side of the block....

it was the low pressure air switch to the right of the steering column...there was 3 of these...was told there was supposed to be 2....replaced all 3 @ $12 a piece....one of mine had rust and water packed in it.....i feel alot better.

it was the low pressure air switch to the right of the steering column...there was 3 of these...was told there was supposed to be 2....replaced all 3 @ $12 a piece....one of mine had rust and water packed in it.....i feel alot better.