towjoe

Ya, real vague. Have you checked your levels? Thought I saw this once with low coolant in the expansion tank.

Best bet is a small spot blaster. But because you don't have a compressor that is out. Acid based rust converters WILL come back and haunt you. In your situation your best bet is to get some POR 15! This is designed for painting over rust. Hence the name. The rust helps it cure, and so does moisture and humidity. Dries like concrete, flows out nice, and is impervious to chemicals and fuel. We coat sandblasted fuel tanks with it. BUT, it is not uv stable. So you have to scuff it and cover it with primer or paint. Go with a catalysts urathane primer. That being said I have no clue why they offer it in different colors!

Wow, looks real nice. Well worth the money in my book.

Yeee haw

We have done a few of them on a fleet of rolloff trucks we work on, and had no problems with durability. We removed the old stands with a plasma and the new ones went up nice. Saved us from having to remove the hoist bodies and hydraulics. We Have a magnetic base drill we use on frames and pintles.

Lucky kid!! Looks like super singles on the rear too.

hi hello i have a 1974 dm mack 10 wheeler iam gonna try and replace my brake pads on the front axle it has five spoke brake hub(dayton rims)my question is what size of socket do i need to remove the brake hub any info is greatly appreciated thanks

Unless you are going to be replacing the brake drum their is no need to remove the drum from the hub. Wheel, Hub, and drum will come off as one unit. Back the brakes off, and just remove the spindle nut and it all slides off. Make sure you use all new hardware and replace the pin bushings. Check the s-cam bushings while you are in their.

I couldn't have said it any better. Though I never thought of the angle iron trick. We just push them threw with a LONG wooden stick. We do check inside with a bore scope after retrival though to check for any other possible damage.