Kreager

Yes, thank you for the tip! I’ll try replacing all the o rings in the cane before spending the $800 on a new one. Appreciate all the replies everyone. Will update the forum if I figure out the issue.

Thank you, I have a feeling the range valve is my issue.

I agree. I think that's why I might have a problem with blowby somewhere, or an issue in the range selector valve. I'm also not sure if the range selector valve is supposed to vent the high side (non-rod side). Regardless, high side venting is not happening right now.

Ok, thank you for the reply. On the T2180 the 'rod side' of the range shift cylinder (at the back of the transmission) is towards low range and won't hold in place when selected. The transmission keeps shifting itself back to high range. I don't remember seeing/hearing any venting on the rear plate that is covers the high range side of the cylinder. If it's normal to have pressure on both sides of the cylinder, despite what is being selected, then I must be losing air pressure somewhere on the low side causing the high side to take over?

Hi, I’m having issues with my newer to me 1998 CL715 (E7 with T2180 18-speed) grain truck and shifting into low range. I haven’t put more than 500 miles on the truck since buying it, and the truck shifted fine when I picked it up a few months ago. Recently the transmission will only switch into low range when air pressure in the tanks is at about 65 pounds. At this PSI the transmission will shift into low range upon selection (I can hear the range forks move), but will immediately switch back into high range without selection. Anything higher than 65 PSI and the transmission stays in high range. I took apart and cleaned the range shift valve on top of the transmission. It was pretty dirty inside but not scored. Put it back together and it seems to work ok. I also removed the cover of the range shift cylinder on the back of the transmission. When doing so I discovered that the high range supply line was applying air pressure at the same time as the low range supply. I guessing that’s not normal. I’m also guessing that the high range supply to the cylinder is overriding the low range supply (except momentarily at around 65 PSI) which is causing the transmission to stay in high range. The cylinder does move easily into low range, and hold there, with the cylinder cover off (no possible way high range air pressure can be applied). My questions are: What would cause there to be positive air pressure on both the low and high side of the range shift cylinder at the same time? Is my range selector valve failing and creating blow by to both low and high supply lines to the range shift cylinder Does anyone have a part number for the range shift valve for my truck (see attached photo taken before I cleaned and removed it)? Any help would be appreciated. I do have the T2180 service manual. Thank you, Kreager

Well I found the short on the CB2 circuit. It was the radio. I unplugged it and now I have consistent power back, no resets, and the truck is running fine. I also cleaned the leads on the ground breaker. However, I have another problem. The alternator is charging very high, close to 16.5 volts. That is probably why the radio fried. Is there a voltage regulator on the CL713? I can’t find any info after a quick search online. Thank you for the bulletin. I’ll clean and check all grounds next weekend.

Any update on what was causing your truck to have no power in the cab? I have a similar problem in my 1998 CL713 with the E7. Truck is new to me and I don’t know its history. It ran and drove fine the first time I moved it. I can crank the truck over and it will fire and run, but as soon as I release the key from start to run the engine immediately shuts down and there are simultaneous clicks from the dash fuse box, and then power is lost to everything. After approx 20 seconds or so power comes back. After multiple recycles and listens with a buddy, we’re narrowed the problem to the CB2 circuit. When I turn the ignition to run, the main relay in the fuse box clicks on and I get power in the cab. The voltage gauge hits 12, then jumps to 14 briefly, back down to 12 and up to 14 quickly before the CB2 finally clicks off and all power is lost until CB2 resets itself. I took out CB2 and put in a 20 amp fuse, repeated the process and fried the fuse (it’s not a bad CB). To me that seems like I have a short on the CB2 circuit but I don’t know what components are on that circuit, or where to start checking for shorts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. A wiring diagram would be extremely useful, but so would some advice. I promise to post a follow up if I have the issue resolved. Thx.