BronsonA2150

Update if anyone cares to know. Found the valve/diverter whatever you want to call it while doing overhead. Stuck out like a sore thumb. Anyways I adjusted the clamp and it made a world of difference. I always like to set heater valves like a choke on a gasser so the lever isn’t quite all the way to the cool side before it fully closes. That way you know for sure it’s closed all the way. Kinda dumb, it appears they put it on the return side instead of the hot side. Would think hot side would be a better idea

Yes that’s what I’m talking about. These look kind of unique though. The ones holding my air duct in have a tall cage almost Eiffel Tower looking. Pretty sure I could find the sweat shop that builds them before any of the yay whos at our local Napa could figure out what I’m talking about 😂

Anyone have a breakdown they could share? I need some captured nuts for the air duct and climate control panel. Would like to price some panels that are broken also

wow. One for my cat was $2-$300 I’m pretty sure. It looks like nearly identical to this one I do

I had a guy send me the procedure from the book. Sounds like .080” for mine if that sounds right? Mine is a 94 e7 350 horsepower. And yes mine is the 680. While we’re on that subject, these are horrendously poor performing. That’s part of the reason I’m tearing into it as it kinda sounded like only half were working. Haven’t gotten that far to troubleshoot that yet but noticed this gap between rocker stud and the trigger piston. This rocker is at full motion. Is that large of a gap normal? Only other one I’ve messed with is one on a 3406 mechanical and if I recall it has a lot closer contact. Like it would push the trigger piston in flush with the housing. If that’s not normal I could see that affecting performance

I do

Have a 350 Mack with Jacob’s engine brake and doing overhead. Didn’t realize these are done differently than most I’ve done as you do one cylinder at a time. Couple questions, assume you adjust the stud above pushrod like normal correct? Started to do that but the goofy Jake stud threw me off. And would assume you rotate to each mark on the flywheel and adjust whichever has both pushrods loose, move to the next then adjust the other number at each mark on the next rotation around?

It’s a 350

Called Mack and they were no help. Anyone know what exhaust and intake valves should be set at? As far as jakes go, which I believe mine are Jacob’s, I could look their specs up but has anyone found a good setting for them that might be different than factory? I know on the old mechanical 3406’s specs called for .070” but people figured out .090” worked better

Well I think I just found my issue trying to fix a wiper bracket. There’s water standing down in this shell just under the hvac intake. Guessing it’s overfilling during a rain and overflowing into where it attaches to firewall. So is there a drain somewhere for this?

Truck will sit in a rain storm and when you get in it to move it water will run out from behind dash/computer somewhere pictured and across floor. Is there a common spot for these cabs or firewalls to leak?

Yep guess I just noticed that after looking again

Wanting to do overhead and set/check jakes on 94 Mack with e7. Are there marks or anything on the flywheel to spot the engine?

don’t have anyone here to help me right now but pretty sure this is the valve I’m looking for on the outside of the firewall isn’t it?

Where is the valve located that the dash valve adjusts for temp control? I believe mine needs adjusted as I have to close the valve on top of the engine for a/c to work so I’m pretty sure dash valve isn’t closing all the way