mackattack3

Can somebody tell me the size of the nut that holds outer cam of peanuts on ch613

Any ideas, cant find anything obvious. Its an E7. Normally the code gives you good idea where to start, but 6 3 is too vague.

My 2001 CH613 used to do that, finally after about a month it started giving me a code. The connector on timing postion sensor was brittle and broke into pieces. As i hit bumps it would lose connection for a second and die, until that day when it finally came apart and wouldnt start back up.. it finally gave a code that day.

I have 96 CH613 E7 427. I am getting codes 6 2 and 6 3. The chart says 6 2 is turbocharger speed. 6 3 is J1708/J1587 link. it will crank and then die like its not getting fuel, wont restart. Have had trouble with connection on fuel actuator before so I went there first. I can unplug connector and replug, it will crank and then die. I realize its probably a bad connection somewhere, and idea where I should start.

You said the engine malfunction lights comes on. To get the code you turn cruise off and hold down the other cruise button untill the malfunction light blinks. Count the blinks, that the fault code..

In My H,O As long as your 350 engine was a vmac engine what you want to do should work ,scrutinize All the bolt locations and oil and coolant locations and make sure everything is there for your application including the water pump and oil cooler mounting!

Just my 2 cents

All cents appreciated.

Thank you, rhasler. We are going to inspect them real careful. I have a couple of good mechanics, just in case one of us miss somethingm the other one might catch it. Thanks for your info, makes me feel like its worth the effort..

Ok I have the casting numbers. The 350 is 239GB5502M and the 427 is 239GB5518M. Help please..

I've heard for years all mack blocks are same. I've have block for '93 350 E7 had electronic injection pump. Now I have 98 E7 427 that has a cracked block, has same style pump. Can anybody tell me if I use block for 350 with all parts from 427, is this gonna work??

It was worn out plungers and barrels on injection pump. Had it rebuilt. Runs like a new one. Thanks for you help.

Okay, overhauled engine, it had 900,000 miles on it, looked like original parts. Was a good idea. Since I didn't give much for it in first place, I'm okay with my decision. But, yall were right, still won't start. I'm fixing to show my ignorance here. I checked the plastic return lines, the jumper between heads. Had problems with that before on some of the others. By transfer pump, do you mean the hand primer pump? I didn't mention when you start it with ether, it doesn't miss at all like you would think it would if it was getting air somewhere. And if you kill it and you're really fast it will start back, you wait 60 seconds and it won't start. No noticable fuel leaks anywhere. I bought it, drove it home, maybe 80 miles, overhauled it, finally got it put back together tonight. Let her run for awhile, sounds better than any of the rest of 'em. Guess I'll try to make a few loads with her, see if I discover anything after running it all day. Willing to try anything..Thanks in advance.

Rob, would you mind telling me how you mounted box fan to blow thru condensor. I would like to try that. This 105 heat index is tough, to say the least. Thanks

I think the system is too low on refrigerant myself. I would disconnect the batteries for about a minute, then reconnect with gauges and refrigerant plumbed into the system ready to start the charge cycle.

What I typically do is connect my charging apparatus, turn on the refrigerant source until I see about 75psi on the low side gauge via the high side using liquid refrigerant through the charge port. After letting the liquid "flash" to gas for about a minute, I enable the a/c system and finish charge with gas through the low side suction port. Typically I look for about a 33-35 degree evaporator temperature, (by the charging gauges as I don't look for pressure) and about a 51-55 degree discharge air temperature from the duct nearest the evaporator inside the truck for a properly sized system. As the outside ambient temperature increases, so does head pressure so I don't rely solely on pressure other than a reference. Do try to stay under 275psi on the head pressure however as it is easy to overcharge and if lucky and safetys are working correctly the binary switch on the high side will cut out.

Besides the engine mounted fan, I use a large box fan to keep air moving across the heat exchanger, (condensor) to remove the heat of absorbtion, and compression/operation.

Rob

Pretty sharp truck. I have log trucks. Got a 98 with a 460 13spd 442 rears, the one I drive is a 96 with 427 13spd 464 rears. They are pretty much same. My 460 runs couple miles faster than 427. Blame that on rears. Good Luck to you!

Love my mack pack,but my first truck was 1995 Freightliner Classic. Drove it for 10 years. Never had any major problems with it, but I do know why they call em FreightShakers. Duct tape goes on long way on things that rattle till you get time to fix properly. A full roll of Duct tape sitting in floorboard makes a good coffee cup holder in a FL cause if you use the one mounted on dash, you'll get coffee all over everything.

Okay, overhauled engine, it had 900,000 miles on it, looked like original parts. Was a good idea. Since I didn't give much for it in first place, I'm okay with my decision. But, yall were right, still won't start. I'm fixing to show my ignorance here. I checked the plastic return lines, the jumper between heads. Had problems with that before on some of the others. By transfer pump, do you mean the hand primer pump? I didn't mention when you start it with ether, it doesn't miss at all like you would think it would if it was getting air somewhere. And if you kill it and you're really fast it will start back, you wait 60 seconds and it won't start. No noticable fuel leaks anywhere. I bought it, drove it home, maybe 80 miles, overhauled it, finally got it put back together tonight. Let her run for awhile, sounds better than any of the rest of 'em. Guess I'll try to make a few loads with her, see if I discover anything after running it all day. Willing to try anything..Thanks in advance.

You should need no either to start !You need to check your fuel preasure at the pump its loosing prime sumwhere your transfer pump check valves or somthing look for any evidence of fuel leaks chect the plastic return to the head at the front of the engine the jumper between the heads ect!

Well i finally broke down and called my mechanic. The injector pump checks out okay, He says I have low compression and need a engine overhaul...

I just bought my 6th CH613. As usual, this one has problems all its own that I haven't run into before. Its a 1997 E7 427. Electronic but not ETech. You have to ether it to get it started. Runs good going down road. Let it idle and it lopes like its fixing to die. Starving for fuel. Kill it and you got to use ether again. When you turn key on, you can hear solenoid on fuel pump engage, assume that means its working. Didn't think to check malfunction light, but didn't notice it coming on. Usually gets my attention when they do. Will pay attention to that in morning, but gotta put exhaust manifold back on first, Changed the gaskets. I saw where little rig had pretty much same symptoms once, but assuming his is manual since its 1993. I could be wrong. Any suggestions??

can anybody tell me if there is a low water sensor with light/buzzer that can be purchased as aftermarket item?

Depending on how it was kept Basicly Bullet proof!

How's the E7 working for you?