RS Disposal

I have used reusable fitting so I do understand what you are saying. I will look closer

I keep brake shoes, wheel seals, alternator, starter, most air valves that are on the truck (seems I have alot of trouble with those in a really cold winter whereas the truck is stage up canyon and can see single digit or lower temps on a consistent basis). Just recently did a total rebuild of front suspension all the way from springs, steering components, brakes and wheel seals. So I think those are good for a bit but as you say will definitely be monitored on an on going basis The fittings on the air dryer are no reusable ones unfortunately. But I have kicked the idea around of buying bulk hose and getting reusable fittings. I don't feel that you are picking on me. I value all of your thoughts and insight being I know what I don't know. If I thought I knew it all I wouldn't be asking questions. I appreciate anything and all you have to say Thank you

Not replacing the fuel line wasn't a matter of time, It was a matter of availability of being able to have one made over the weekend. It was the last FUEL line needing to be replaced. The inline pump isn't meant to be a long term cure. It is just another step in my trouble shooting process. Being the line wasn't wet anywhere along it's length with pressure on it makes me think that it wasn't sucking air. Being any older truck alot of parts aren't able to be locally sourced. I do have a new lift pump on order. My mindset is one that I need to know what was actually causing the problem and not just throw alot of parts/repairs at it in hopes that one of them fixes the problem. Time consuming and can be frustrating I know, but just the way my mind works. I haven't really addressed the air lines yet being the truck has no problem building air. I was just concerned about servicing the dryer. Once I get to the dryer job the lines from the compressor to dryer and from dryer to wet tank will be replaced alone with the signal, etc lines to and from governor. The truck is a 1979 and when my dad was running it I don't think it was maintained very well knowing that the arrangement he had with his brother (who owned a ski lodge in the resort) that every 4 or 5 yrs the truck is replaced. The truck have never run full time even back then. The truck then sat for 20+ yrs before I put it back to work Mile wise it only has 160,000 miles, but it it 47 yrs old so just is not really wearing out, it is aging out. My biggest problem has been sourcing parts as I found out with the engine breakdown 2 yrs ago. The truck only really makes any money thru the ski season (about 4 or 5 months) and then it only works two days a week for about 10 hours total, so there is not alot left over to stock pile anything more than than maintenance parts and smaller breakdowns.. I do totally understand what you are saying about a parts truck, but that search didn't go well back when I had my engine breakdown

Being that the tank to primary filter hose is the last one needing replaced I decided to try a wild hair idea. I spliced in an inline fuel pump (being the line was going to be replaced anyway so no concerns about cutting it) and powered it off a keyed accessory circuit. Powered it on and had about 20 psi at the injector pump. Started the truck and let it run for a bit watchin the fuel gauge to see if having the lift pump still in line (if indeed the pump is bad) would have any adverse effect on the fuel pressure. Being it was a work day I had to climb canyon I decided WTH and give it a try being after about 15 minutes of fast idle the pressure seemed to stay about the same. Climbed the canyon with no problems at all. I do believe I felt there was a bit more power available, I did notice that the boost pressure was a little higher and the the pyrometer was a little higher (neither was crazy high). Correct me if I am wrong, but my thinking those factors would mean the engine was getting better fuel flow.

I totally understand your comment. My problem about truck not running is it is a garbage truck and I service a ski resort town which in the ski season is extremely busy particularly on holidays. non of my accounts have the space to miss a pickup day which is 4 or 5 times a week.

thats the last hose i have to replace. Would of done this weekend but my hose place is closed on weekends and truck has to go to work tonite. It's hard to work on equipment that also has to work every day.

haven't actually checked the vent it self, but I did try running with the fuel cap loose. I will try the drain back tee and see if it makes any difference. Being a one man show with only one truck and this being my busy season and truck having to also work while I try to figure this out makes for some long frustrating days

truck seems to run fine around town but when I am climbing the canyon occasionally it will start to miss (more than just loosing power) and I would have to pull over and let it idle for a bit. Then I could start back up again. I do understand about a liquid filled gauge, but would think the gauge attached after the secondary filter would mellow the fluttering a bit. I did notice a couple of times that the gauge did drop to zero for several seconds. I did pull the plastic check valves and they did look ok, but don't have new to compare against. Truck only has about 160,000 road miles (not sure about motor miles being there is a pto running a packer) but then again it is 47 yrs old and sat for about 20 yrs before being put back into service about 8 yrs ago. Truck only really works part time anyway, but I do know stuff breakdown with age alone

from what I have found its about 15 psi. My question was the fast fluttering

pulled the return tee of and took apart. everything looks good there. Haven't pulled the cap screws yet. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the injector in line and at idle the needle fluctuates between 10 and 30 psi. Doesn't change much if I go to a fast idle. Should this reading be more smooth rather than fluttering? Would this be sign of a bad fuel pump? I did pull the caps and the springs appear ok and the plastic check valves are ok

not exactly sure where that is. I am not a heavy truck mechanic and still learning my truck all beit it is older

lately I haven't been getting anything out of the purge valve when the system reaches 120. I agree that the line between compressor and dryer should be replaced. It is definitely on the list of things to do with this truck. Right now I am also fight a fuel problem which I am hoping is old/bad fuel lines. The truck was never maintained as it should of been when my dad was operating the business and then sat for 20 yrs before I opted to put it back into service

i am working on replacing most of the lines one by one on this truck being it is a 1979. I know rubber breaks down just from age (not alot of miles but 47 yrs old) and this truck has seen alot of road salt. The problem I am having is that once it got cold the truck had a hard time building air. I replaced the governor which seemed to help a bit. Air pump was replaced about 5 or 6 years ago. Being a garbage truck it does alot of start and stopping.

the air dryer is fairly tall as compared to what I have seen on other trucks. Plenty of room whereas the dryer is on the inside of the frame rail and nothing else around it

I am wanting to service my air dryer being I can't find in maintenance records my dad had for the truck when it or if it was last done. I can't find a tag on the dryer or and specific info on it in the factory service manual. Not sure if I can actually get it apart being truck sees ALOT of road salt in the winter. If that is the case what style of air dryer should I be looking at. A google search shows there are quite a number of different dryers available.