Ryon Hess

So I ran the vin on this new to me MH613 and ordered an air filter but showed up with one closed end and one open end. Cabovers run the both end open style I’ve discovered and having some trouble finding this style, any of yous running this both end open style filter and have a place you get yours to recommend or part number. Appreciate any info 

Hey, thanks for chiming in. Turns out that my 306ffl can simply be replaced with the more available 306ssl (stainless steel locking btw) and if you don’t need the locking ring with your setup you can just remove it and use bearing without apparently 

Hello, pilot bearing is shot. Mack says it’s obsolete of course.  # on front is 306ffle and back is BCA-306seal anybody dealt with this/have any input? Would be appreciated 

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Clutch brake is out of the equation . That's not to do with a dragging clutch based on your test..  I'm sorry, but if you exhausted all external possibilities,  I would think a disc is in backwards..  I do have a crazy thought.. I believe it is a dog dish flywheel, if so, is the pressure plate flang thinner than the old one,  the area where the bolts go through?

Thanks, if this is the case. If pressure plate is thinner then what would fix that scenario? Maybe flywheel needs machining also. Don’t think that was done. 

With clutch in it jumps forward in gear. Will go in gear with truck off and then when it starts immediately jumps forward with clutch in. thanks for reply. Has been adjusted a ton. Thinking maybe linkage or something with clutch brake. Definitely don’t want to have to pull tranny again if can help it 😂

2 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Does the shifter feel different than before? And what happens when you try to put it in gear does it grind or does it do nothing at all? Could be that the forks internal to the transmission are broken or misaligned if the transmission is a different one or has been rebuilt. Had that happen once on a pickup. Best of luck

Grinds.  Feels the same but also trying to get shift linkage in perfect spot so feels a bit different kinda. Friend was saying could just be clutch brake had a little more adjusting 

Any input would be appreciated 

4 hours ago, Full Floater said:

I notice this on all my Mack E6's.  The gov springs in general seem to be a weak link on these and can be very touchy.  I bet the slight load, or lack there of it when the compressor is off, throw the gov springs off slightly.  

I wouldn't worry about it much, although it can be a bit annoying.   

 

But hey, it's way better then a new truck with a check engine light

Interesting, good info. Thanks, E6 is new to me.
Ohh yeah, definitely agree.. beats a check engine light 😂

11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Do you have an air powered throttle?

Had truck a couple weeks and actually not sure but it looks like air throttle was only factory installed in E9 and some CHs around year 2000

Funny because like 4 noticeable days of this happening. Today it has sounded great near best ever for hours. 

6 hours ago, terry said:

Maybe when the air compressor kicks in slows the engine slightly?  Terry

Yeah but it begins cycling after like down and up that shows from 33psi and at idle time down to 30 up to then down every few seconds then stopsq for minutes until compressor purges then it starts again. If i rev accelerator it goes away for a while sometimes or after driving gone for a while or when truck starts engine sounds great until air pressure builds and air tank releases air then it begins. 

Been driving this MH 613 E6 350 a couple weeks now and maybe I didn’t notice at first but lately after it warms up, or when it idles a while after driving, or after correcting itself then the air dryer purging causes engine to start a kind of rise/cycling down up sound that shows a slight drop in oil pressure than directly back up. fuel pump governor? Or maybe air dryer related? anybody encounter this or have any thoughts? They’d be appreciated. Y’all dudes been behind these Mack’s so long you’re a great resource for narrowing things down rather than a random shop 

Anyone encountered a cover leak on there gearbox before? I think it’s even spraying a little by the specks on back of cab and fuel tanks nearby. Maybe breather is clogged and pressurization would explain the spray or a worn gasket? Maybe tower is loose also? When truck was ran first time in 8 years local shop thought the cover was issue but that didn’t fix. 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Man I'm glad it's an MH.. so you can tip the cab and jump right in . What's the chances the shift linkage is worn and doesn't travel far enough?  Gosh,  it's been so long since I worked on a cabover..    I wish I was there just to look at it...   

that sounds like first thing to check and fingers crossed most likely thing. Haven’t replaced shift linkage before. Easy to get replacement parts? I’m gonna message photos of truck because they aren’t uploading for some reason

5 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

If you leave the clutch out, and ease it up toward reverse, can you get it to grind against the gear?

I am trying to separate "gears won't mesh" and "fork won't slide".

If you can't get it to grind, it's likely a fork/rod issue or the clutch not sliding on the shaft.  If it will grind easily, then maybe there is something wrong on the mating surfaces of the clutch and gear.

Or, I could be on drugs...

Thanks a ton for sharing info

4 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I may have said that on another post..  the reverse fork is operated by a lever in the shift cover that reverses the movement of the the fork to go into the reverse gear..  if I remember right, there is a shouldered bolt with a brass bushing. If that bolt gets loose, it can cause his issue.. he may be able to see it on top of the shift cover, by trying to go in to reverse, if that bolt is worn you can see it move around..  

thanks for info. Some solid leads here. 

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Has the truck recently experienced a violent backlash in the drive train?? DCW makes good points.    You may need to pull the main shift cover and inspect the forks, and the set bolts in the forks...  I bet this truck is an, RD,RB,DM?? Which makes pulling the shift cover a half a day job..  

it’s actually an 85 MH613

5 hours ago, MACKS said:

Cold,warm or doesn’t matter?

Doesn’t matter, haven’t tried cold really but yeah two days now and basically impossible now. My arm is jello at this point haha 

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

How about going in to 1st.?  They share the same shift fork and sliding clutch.. 

Ok well that’s going to narrow the problem down. First is still basically fine along with all others. Gearbox is leaking out of cover though also and oil inside is probably getting low. Reverse is near impossible since yesterday. Last night had to cancel all loads for next week because without ability to back its a nightmare 😂

Barely able to get into reverse anymore. Sometimes not at all, what could be issue?

On 2/10/2023 at 5:30 PM, fjh said:

I have suggestion! Convert to a 32 litre pan and just replace the oil pickup!

Adding to my response/quote, I basically found the answers with photo attached. Looks like a pretty short pickup, I gather it doesn’t sit at bottom of deep sump and like another member commented, the pickup works in both pans apparently. Wanted to know what was dealing with before I dropped pan and then needed something and had to do it twice 

On 2/24/2023 at 11:02 AM, br549 said:

Pickup tube is same on the small and big oil pan,  the 51 qt is just deeper.

Adding to my response/quote here I’m attaching a photo of complete oil pump, pickup tube and strainer. It looks like your info was dead on. Was asking questions before I dropped pan just to know what I might need beforehand  and not go through process twice. Short thick pickup and unique strainer 

On 2/24/2023 at 11:02 AM, br549 said:

Pickup tube is same on the small and big oil pan,  the 51 qt is just deeper.

Ok thanks, that would be great. So it just doesn’t go all the way to bottom of sump on the deeper one?

On 2/10/2023 at 5:30 PM, fjh said:

I have suggestion! Convert to a 32 litre pan and just replace the oil pickup!

Do you know where I could find that replacement oil pickup? Maybe a part# or would modifying current one also be an option? Thanks for input 

On 3/27/2023 at 11:28 AM, JoeH said:

I wouldn't mess with the filters. Leave it as is.

Thanks for sharing thoughts. You mentioned earlier the oil pickup won’t need to be modified so it’s not gonna be too long when using a shallower pan? does it not actually go to bottom of sump then? Sorry if that’s a dumb question I’ve never dropped this pan before and am just trying to get idea of inside layout. 
Then I’ll leave filter style as is like you mentioned and gasket style looks to be the same.  honestly arent many info resources on this and Mack shops are of course very little help usually when it comes to their older stuff unfortunately I’ve found the case. So i really appreciate any additional knowledge you share on this subject. I’ll give them VIN though and they should be able to find a basic filter kit that came factory. this E6 and 85 MH stuff is kinda new to me, just got truck after it was sitting for 7 years