Mark22300

ok im gonna start a new thread with a complete description, pictures and hopefully some video. love the enthusiasm but this got away from me. 

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Was that valve the air governor(D-2)? It may be mounted near the air filter housing..

this is the part i replaced. and this is the air dryer. i only hear the air pissing when im speeding up and sometimes it purges and quits but other times it just keeps pissing, let go of the gas and it stops. i will try to get a video of it maybe here

On 7/1/2023 at 9:42 AM, R.E.D said:

I had this issue...and it's the air dryer constantly blowing air out.. remember air compressor is feed clean boosted air from your intake manifold....my would purge and would not build boost...all the sudden it would purge and boost would shoot back up....I'm not saying your 4-5 code isn't also causing issues,but definitely take a look at you air dryer....this low boost condition causes  really high egt and if you don't have a pyro ,you could cause damage to your engine.

Just my .02 cents 

 

RED

i replaced my air dryer 2 or 3 months ago and nothing changed. the leaking air was happening before the derating issue, could this be a failing air compressor loosing boost? my egts have never gotten past 1000 (1000 away from the red zone)  even in this derated limp mode. ive gotten a 2-2 code and this 2-4 code. normally the 2-2 is only on start up and the 2-4 is when pulling and pushing boost. never shown up together. 

Ive applied 30psi to the waste gate and it opens and closes fine, no air leaks in the Blatter. 

i did dump my air tanks for the first time in for ever and i noticed what looked like engine oil or maybe just rusty shitty water come out? makes me suspect the compressor more?

ive replaced the one valve right above the intake air filter as well i cant remember what its called, kinda like the brains i was told.

forgot to mention it just started hard starting when this 4-5 code showed up, will crank and fire then die then fire up on the 2nd try. 

well my injector codes and issues went away now im getting a intermittent 4-5 code and the truck wont build more then 18psi of boost when that code shows up. typically it'll come on the most when im hauling a heavy load. exactly when you need you boost lol. any ideas?

i also have a valve or something that wont want to purge and will just piss air until it finally purges and goes away but i don't think its related as it never drops the air pressure on my gauges. i don't believe its the air dryer because i just replaced it but that exactly what it sounds like when it finally purges after pissing air. 

17 hours ago, R.E.D said:

If you ever do this job again, it is best to rotate the engine so the cam lobe it's not pushing on the eup spring. If the eup would have been good, it could have gotten damaged from flying out of that hole... Same for  procedure for installation.. and if by any chance you have ceramic eup rollers , don't drop them in and let them hit the cam.

im pretty sure it shot out because the retaining clip wasn't holding the piston in, ill know tomorrow when the new eup shows up. and the roller is all metal i believe 

44 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.?  the Gold thingy...  The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there..  

 

does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on?  It looks scratched to me in the picture..  I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

this is the d clip right?

38 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.?  the Gold thingy...  The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there..  

 

does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on?  It looks scratched to me in the picture..  I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

the D clip is still on the eup, it doesn't quite hold it in i was able to make it pop past even after i reassembled it. and no the roller is completely smooth its probley the lighting making it look scratched but ill pull it out again and double check just to be sure

Well i got around to pulling the EUP and sweet baby Jesus was looking down upon me and extended a miracle, roller is in good shape cam is fine. The EUP on the other hand blew apart as you see in the photo when i popped it out of its hole, the gold plunger seems to have gotten past the retaining clip and was possibly sitting loose in the hole or maybe just not assembled properly? Im not sure if that was the cause of the issues or if that happened due to the sudden release of it being under the pressure of the spring that aloud the plunger to get past the retaining clip, there's also a wear mark in the golden coating as seen in the last photo. possibly a contributing factor to the infrequent 8-4 code. 

I ordered a new EUP from https://mydieselpro.com/ the guy I talked to was very helpful and was under half the price Mack wanted for one. ill toss the new one in and hopefully that fixes that. 

On 5/20/2023 at 7:15 AM, fjh said:

I have a sugestion Maybe try runing some fuel conditioner like Howes or Standyne  lubricity formula for a bit see if this changes  your situation!

what would that do? could it be a issue with the oil? i run shell rotella 15w-40 at the moment 

well i got the oil sample back and there is no metal particulates or any sign of the cam/roller being damaged. code hasn't came back since i cleaned the connection's until this morning when i started it up it coughed a bit and started shitty then it threw the code at me again. shut it down and checked the blink code fired it back up and it was gone again. thinking its the eup itself that needs replacing  

also i had a buddy whos better at computers then me find me the manual pdf online 👍

ok so i got the chance to clean up the connection's on #4s eup. As you can see they where pretty shitty and corroded. i hit them with a wire brush and brake cleaned them then reconnected and fired it up and i let it idle at 650rpm (low idle) for a good 15-20 mins and i didn't hear or feel the miss. i cranked it up to 1000rmp for another 10 mins and still nothing, idled just fine with no miss. Im really hoping that this was the problem. Im going to drop the oil and see if i can send my inspection camera into the drain hole to inspect the cam for damage as a precautionary measure, otherwise ill drop the pan as you advised. i also sent a oil sample away to check for metal shavings and it should be back early next week. ill update when i know more

Thanks for the insight and help with my issue here guys i really appreciate it.

On 5/10/2023 at 7:25 PM, R.E.D said:

If you do end up removing the eup, install new bolts and o rings ..the bolts tend to break.. specially if never been changed.As  mentioned above , pull the eup roller and check the protrusion of the roller guide pin... attached is an image of the roller  pin almost flush with the eup housing wall,it made the roller spin and trashed the cam .. this is my on my cousin's truck , it had a miss and blink  code for the eup. Hopefully yours is not that bad. Just my two cents

 

RED

thanks for the image I really hope this isn't the case for my situation or i am completely F-ed as idk if id be able to afford the fix.  

This is the alignment dowel correct? there is a allen head plug right beside it. any one know what service manual i need for this engine (2002 E7 460P)? id love to have some break downs and repair guides for it

I haven't had the chance to pull #4 out to inspect it but I did notice that it is the only one that has rusty terminal ends so fingers crossed that that's the cause of it. also instead of pulling #4 out would it be possible to pull the oil fill off the side of the block and put my inspection snake camera in to take a look at the cam lobe and roller?

1st is #4 

2nd is #3 thats in like new condition

3rd photo is the oil fill right beside #4

11 hours ago, fjh said:

And the spring! Thou usually a physical problem will not thru a code! The wiring is suspect as Joe states ! The Eup its self may be fault ! As a Note!  if you do end up changing the Eup you should install  the new Cal code eched into the new  pump to optimize the run of the Engine!  You may have to go to the dealer for this !

If they remember how to do it!  This stuff is getting to be dinosaur like ! 

 

Just sayin!

I've seen other posts of the worst case scenario where the spring failed and wrecked the cam lobe, i hope its the wiring like jojo suggested. thanks for the reply's ill keep you guys updated and be sure to post the fix if I find it

13 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Check the wires coming to EUP.. they tend to run against the engine and short out, and they can crack as well.  Start there, and keep your wallet closed while we guide you.. 

If the wires look good, check the big plugs on the EECU for pin damage.

If that is good, you can swap #4 EUP, with another, easy to get to, EUP, and see if the code follows the EUP.. if you do remove the #4 EUP. Pull the roller lifters out and inspect the roller,  guide pin and cam lobe....  Jojo

I didn't think of checking wiring, I will defiantly start there! I guess the truck is 20 year old very possible the wiring is cracked, the truck has the classic leaky exhaust studs so maybe the connection's are dirty i will check it out tomorrow. thanks for the guidance i really hope i can keep my wallet closed on this one. 

I did the oil test and I don't think I see any fuel in the oil. this pic was taken 12 mins after. I will probably send a oil sample away anyways just to be sure. oil was just changed 600ish km ago.

Hey guys, I've owned this truck for roughly 6 months and its always had a bit of a miss at idle. well the other day it gave me a lightning bolt light and the blink sequence was 8-4 meaning a fault in injector #4. I am wounding if I'm going to need to replace just the injector or the Fuel Injection pump for that injector as well? how would I diagnose that? Also if anyone has and links to previous posts on injector replacements or any other tips and tricks toque specs would be very much appreciated. I am just getting my Excavation Company off the ground and going this summer and this is my main dump truck/work horse that drags my Hoe around so I need it back up and running asap.

I don't believe there is any fuel mixing in the Engine oil

Opinions?

Any thing I am missing maybe? 

Is there any special tools I will need?

I have replaced Injectors before but not in a heavy truck only in a 2006 24v cummins common rail 1 ton truck. 

7 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Awesome that's a huge help! where do I get one of those books? is there an online version?

did you ever fix your leak? I seem to be having the same issue on my 02 E7-460P. Wondering if I do studs and gaskets if it will go away.

here is a pic of the transverse torque arms, the F one has no shims or washers and is sitting ok i believe. the R one has 2 washers in it and if removed they will pull the axle in to the P side and line it with the F one, will those 2 1/8 washers transfer to 2" that it needs to come over? i feel like there's something definitely wrong with the D spring pack. i just wish i would have done it myself instead of throwing $1000 to the wind and not fixing the issue. 

Thank you for everyone who has weighed in, this is my first Semi truck and I'm pretty mechanically inclined but i have no experience with air suspension 

Took in to get it fixed, picked it up and the axle was still sitting 2" or so to the drivers side. straightened the crossmember. Replaced both U bolts on the D&P side and saddle on P side. Was told that the torque arm on the top of the diff just needs to be shimmed. They said they checked the centering pins and they where fine. On the D side it looks like the leaf pack has moved on the diff, I feel as if something is still wrong as 2" is alot to get out of shimming a torque arm not?

6 hours ago, 2wdiesel2021 said:

Do these have a torque rod like a peternilt air leaf suspension or freightliner air leaf that keeps the axle in line left to right? 
I see alot of them bend in Tandem dump truck duty from turning sharp on pavement with a shorter wheelbase truck.

yeah i beleve these are called a torque rod they are on the top of these diffs, its been so cold since i posted this i haven't been able to start the truck and lift the box to inspect them closer but i gave them all a wiggle and they seemed fine before i drove the truck home