Craig N

Man, I can’t thank you guys enough!!  Thank you. This information is such a valuable resource.  
 

I used to do wheel seals 20 years ago on the R models I was driving, but it’s been a while for sure and I know these are different. I remember having to hit the axle with a sledgehammer for it to pop out. 

So, I’m gonna tackle the rear inner wheel seal soon. I’m gonna pull the wheels, then, I’m gonna pull the spider, right?  Then I can slide the drum off?  Just making sure I have a decent plan before I go ahead.

Also, how do I get grease into these front wheel bearings?  This is the old grease cap, right?  Do these covers unscrew?

Anyone going to the truck show in Bolton, MA this weekend?

15 hours ago, mowerman said:

Sorry, Craig didn’t mean to step on your tread

This is all of ours and whoever stumbles across it looking for good info!

So, if I have oil dripping onto my inner rear wheel, that’s an inner seal, right?

1 hour ago, Mean Green said:

Square plate covers the door hinges on the inside of the door oval cover is on cab above the door third is wher bulldog stands on grille

Oh yeah, I see it now. They replaced the green bulldog bracket for a chrome one. Thanks for that info!!  I’ll cover up the door hinges with them. 

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I found this on E-Bay..  It was cheap, and it is a bit hard to read because it looks like photo copies of photo copies..  However, it also looks like the real book..  I think I paid $25 for it. and I received a book, not a download.. I gues I am assuming you dont have the books you need.  Jojo

The manual I bought off of eBay isn’t complete. It only covers the fuel system. Must’ve been a big stack of books for these, because my manuals over 100 pages ha. Yeah, I need some books for sure. 
 

Got a cheap oil pressure gauge working for now at least. I was rummaging though my Mack parts that came with the truck. I have all sorts of small, interior stuff that came with this. Anyone have any idea what some of these are for?  Thought the B 422 emblem was cool.

2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Is the oil pressure relief valve boned and pumping stupid high pressure up there?

Was only at 50 or so when driving it when it was cold. 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

How about puttin a remote gauge on it to see what it really pushes..  maybe a 150 PSI + gauge.. 

That’s a good idea. Used to have one in my 66 LTD. Wish I still had it now lol. 

4 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I think it's the oil pressure gauge for the motor thats getting oil in it

But I could be wrong here

 

Paul 

Yeah, oil pressure gauge for the motor. It has 40 at cold idle, nothing alarming. 

So, my old oil gauge (Stewart Warner) was filling up with oil and I replaced it today with a new one. Now the same thing happened with the brand new one. Filled right up. What the hell am I doing wrong?  The fitting screws right on the back of the gauge.  No leaks from the fitting, but the oil actually starts filling up the face of the gauge. Can dump it out the light socket. 

4 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

is the compressor on it now from original engine or was on donor engine from start?  with the system COMPLETLY  drained down, open all tank drains overnight . some cases larger drain if you remove drains completely from tanks, take off the feedline from compressor at the tank end. secure the end so it doesn't go whipping and hurt some one ;; and start engine .  see how much crap comes out . 

I’ll take the line off tomorrow and let it pump out. This is the compressor that was on the donor engine. Was built in 1989. The one on the original engine is from 1960. Can’t even find replacement numbers for the 1960 one. The 1989’s numbers still exist. Both TU-Flo 500’s, but the old one is obviously an older model.

18 minutes ago, Mean Green said:

Craig what kind of tail light are you using I installed led ones with back up light built in I had to install some kind of wiring isloater box made by hoppy for everything to work something with how the brake lights are one wire to both lights and turn were separated 

Signal Stat typical truck lights with 1157’s in them and back ups in there too. 

31 minutes ago, HarryS said:

I just finished replacing the compressor. I had to take the dip stick out but not the exhaust. I did take the fender off. Made it a lot easier.

Oh nice. Yeah, I was under it yesterday and looked like I could slip it passed the exhaust.  Where did you source a compressor?  Power Brake Sales in California will rebuild mine, but they don’t have one to sell me. I’m on the other coast too, so wouldn’t mind finding someone closer to rebuild mine if possible. 

Looks like these will work 

What’s everyone use for wiper blades?  I have the original ones from the red truck that screw on with flat head screws. 

Figured out the speedometer wiring last night. It’s a Stewart Warner so the instructions were online. I have to find the port on the back of the transmission tonight.  I might wire up a reverse light switch off the dash just to have for inspections and what not. Have to figure out why my directionals don’t work when my lights are on now haha.

Looks like it’s going to be a pain to get the compressor out. I wish I had the foresight to do this when I had the motor out haha. Looks like the exhaust and oil dipstick tube will have to come out at the least.  I have that motor sitting on the ground so at least I have an idea of what needs to be done. 

Did these B models ever have reverse lights?  Also, I have an electric speedo. The unit attached to the Speedo cable has 3 wires coming out of it that must hook up to the speedometer.  I’m gonna look it up. It’s a Stewart Warner gauge. 

The lights work!!  At least the fronts do and marker lights. The rear running lights weren’t on but that should be a simple fix. The wipers work too!!  That’s no wiper arms on there but I have some on big red I can pull off.  Big news. Need to grab a flasher unit for it, as the one in there is all smashed up. Maybe the directionals work too

So I’ve been digging in some old posts here about the Tu-flo 500. I’m assuming that’s what mine is. I’ll try and clean it up and find some numbers on it. Hoping I don’t need to pull it and get a reman one. We’ll see I guess. I just drove it around town for a good half hour or so with the kiddo and it didn’t leak out nearly as much sludge as before. Hoping it just needs a good running haha. 

Lots of gross oil and some water in the air tank when I got it home. Had drained it prior to leaving too 

She’s home!  

13 hours ago, terry said:

Don’t forget to drain trans fluid before pulling PTO.   Terry 

Yeah, that would be a big mess haha. Man, it didn’t leak before, but I took it off and cleaned it all up and must’ve took too much dirt and oil off that held the oil in lol. The transmission that’s attached to the motor I pulled didn’t have a PTO, just a plate covering the hole, so that’s gonna get put on I guess.

The passenger side of the red truck just has a step, no tank. Looks odd. 
 

I got the alternator on today. Used threaded rod. Used the small pulley, not the one off of the genny.  Got it all wired and it’s charging. Gave it a wash today too. Gonna pull the PTO tomorrow if I have time and put the plate over the hole since the seal leaks on the PTO. Might fix the seal at some point, but doubt I’ll need a PTO unless I can find a winch that’ll work off of it. I have a nice wet system on the other truck, but don’t know what I could do with it other than hydro winch, if there is such a thing. 
 

Oh, got it registered yesterday too!  Legal beagle!!  Need to try and get the wipers and lights working next i think. Still have to drill the frame for an air tank bracket too. Lots of stuff to do still, but getting there!

My drivers tank isn’t hooked up yet. Gotta plumb it to the passenger one that has the pickup in it