Walkyrie_Engineering

On 10/30/2020 at 10:54 PM, Javmqz said:

I had a quote done at Bruckners in Hobbs NM and the pair ran for 1500-1600. That includes the wiring harness needed. And according to them everything else should be exact fit. 

You wouldn't happen to have the part number for them would you?

Wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't an overhead cam

My 2013 chu mp8 505 has an oil leak coming from behind the head after replacement. Either the sealant failed or there wasn't enough, it's between the head and the timing plate, not the timing cover. It's a slow leak but if I idle for the night or longer it leaves a little puddle. Obviously I would like to avoid the arduous task of removing the head again just to put a little sealant on the back of the head, my stupid question is could I mayhap solder the area with a solder that melts higher than the 200° operating temp but below the 380° flash point of oil, how bad of an idea would this be?

On 12/15/2022 at 8:52 PM, mdixon said:

I'd bet it's from the direct exit into the egr valve, high speed gas burning the valve on the way out, or some kind of supersonic cavitation from the pressure difference in that spot in the manifold.

That does make sense, I wonder if a redesign of the manifold would fix this. Or maybe some kind of baffle plate like thing to go between the manifold and egr valve

On 12/2/2022 at 4:27 PM, fjh said:

That is weird the last truck we had at our shop dropped a piece ended up taking out the piston, liner , head and turbo! No# 5  and one other #5 seen it happen to other cyls as well don't think its Cyl Selective! just shit happens! I do however think it is worse if engines are deleted and don't get programed correctly for the delete ! I have seen a half dosen ISX heads ruined by it!

I have seen a lot of correlation to the #5 cylinder from other people. I wonder if there's a specific reason or if it's just a strange coincidence 

On 12/2/2022 at 3:11 PM, mdixon said:

It went out the other side. Any damage to the turbine? You say deleted so it didn't smash into the DOC, or go back through the intake via the EGR

 

Both of our failures are on cylinder #5 too

The turbo did start leaking oil I ended up replacing it in this debacle 

9 hours ago, mdixon said:

Valve troubles? I've got 1 down and 1 just back from mack for cracked exhaust valves.

Yeah I had the # 5 cylinder exhaust valve get a big chip missing... funny I never found the chip

On 11/29/2022 at 8:44 PM, Onyx610 said:

Isn’t your truck deleted?

I appreciate all the feedback,  yes this truck is deleted, and I see I have been a little more on the paranoid side I wasn't sure what was normal for the MP8 temperature wise, but if it seems to be within normal operating conditions then I can relax a bit. As you may know I just had to replace the head on this truck, and would like to avoid  doing such again any time soon🙃

naturally, it seems i am doomed to repetitively tearing that side of my engine apart. is there a way to add an external oil cooler for efficiency sake?

On 10/22/2022 at 8:36 AM, fjh said:

The above issue happens to non deleted engines as well  have seen 3 in my area drop a chunk of valve and take out a liner and piston! that said the extra heat from an improper delete won't help the situation! So Mac pro is indeed correct! All comes down to chance!

Any Idea what causes the chipped valves, I just replaced the head on mine because of this and I'd like to hopefully prevent this from happening in the future as it was a PITA for me to do.

May be a dumb question, but where is the oil cooler located on a 2013 MP8? my oil temp doesn't seem to correlate to my engine temp like I'm told it should, I know there not an exact correlation but I've been told usually around 10 degrees  but my oil temp seems to climb (particularly if I'm climbing a long grade) I try not to let it get too high (but it has almost reached 230 before i caught it) I can manually turn the fan on and keep it on till the temp returns to normal, but the oil temp climbing to 225 while the coolant temp is around 200 seems a bit of a gap, good conditions my oil temp is usually around 208. I've looked around for your typical oil cooler radiator looking thingy but there is none to be found, doesn't appear to be a transmission cooler either (trans temp has always been good I've had no problems there) but it still leaves the question, Where does the oil get cooled? there are stick like radiators for the power steering but nothing for the oil? 

Am I missing something or am I just being paranoid? Both are highly probable.

2013 Mack CHU 613 MP8 505

On 10/13/2022 at 11:37 PM, Mackpro said:

I believe the Volvo D16 came out in 2006 with EGR only and only in the VT880. Having worked on a few MP10’s , the engine is massive and is physically much larger than a MP8. Plus the radiator is huge. I’d think it’s next to impossible to cram it in a CHU.   Now get a CL with a bad engine and put the CHU cab on it and then paint the D16 red and slap some Mack stickers on it and you might be in business however getting  the Mack Vecu to talk to the Volvo engine ecm would be a miracle. 

I haven't been able to see one up close in person, I figured they would be bigger  but I didn't realize they were that much bigger. I had seen some videos of a guy with what appears to  be a newer pinnacle 64t that had fit one in but he drag races it so I suppose he probably did a lot of work to fit it in there

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

I love the idea, have you been able to source a pre emission mp10?

Not quite yet I'm still researching whether or not it's a viable option 

Just doing a little research here, was kicking around an idea, we purchased our truck and it happened to be deleted,  and as I understand it the cost to Un deleted it can get pretty expensive.  But allegedly the fmcsa came out with a clarification that the emissions are based off the engine year, and if I could obtain a  pre emissions  MP10 for a similar amount of money that it would cost to replace the emissions system to make it legal why wouldn't I go for the option to get a little more HP out of my truck, and then perhaps be able to drop the extra weight and gain more frame space for more important knickknacks that the def tank and scr filter and such take up. Thoughts? 

On 9/23/2022 at 6:03 AM, Vmac3 said:

Did you put silicone on the timing gear plate before you put the cylinder head on?

It can also be the cam position sensor o-ring that failed. When you put the upper timing cover back on, did you make sure that the cover is flat with the cylinder head?

V

Sorry for the late response I didn't get notified of any replies for some reason, upon further inspection I believe that the timing plate is the culprit I put silicone on before putting the head back on but I guess maybe I didn't use enough or it was a bad tube or whatever but it does appear to be leaking from between the head and that plate, is there anything I can do short of removing the head and re-installing it? It seems to be coming more from the passenger side back behind the ear and exhaust manifold 

We have a 2013 CHU613 MP8 505 with a 325" wheelbase partially double framed and for some reason it came from the factory with only a 12k front axle, is there any way to upgrade to a heavier rated axle preferably air ride it'd be nice to get to a 20k front end. Also are there any upgrades to increase HP?

did you ever manage to figure this issue out?

We just replaced the head on our 2013 CHU and everything appears to be running fine except for an oil leak towards the back of the engine. it's a slow steady drip only when engine is running. I've pulled the timing cover and re sealed it a couple times and no apparent leaks on the back of the engine, it seems to be possibly from where the head meets that backing plate? if it was the rear main seal I imagine oil would be coming out of the sight hole on the bottom of the flywheel housing wouldn't it? there was no leak before I replaced the head and I tried to remove as little as possible to do so but I can't seem to figure out exactly where it is leaking.

any suggestions?

yeah I thought it was deleted too, but it has been sitting for aprox 8 months with the batteries disconnected, so maybe the computer reset itself? or it was a fluke regen? maybe all I need to do to finish undeleting it now it just replace the DPF filter, I don't really know much about the emission system.

as for the injector knock I unplugged each injector while the truck was running and the knock changed after unplugging number 4 that's how i found out it was the injector, the return fuel line on the back of the head was dripping a little i tightened that up, and hand primed the fuel system a bit, started the truck and idled it up to about 1300 rpm, and let it run for a bit then slowly idled it back down and the knock never came back.

Turned out to be injector Knock, runs nice and smooth now took it for a test drive up to the truck stop got a little smoke from exhaust,, got back home and just before i parked huge billowing clouds of yellowish white smoke poured out of the exhaust, I didn't recognize the smell, and no problems with the engine oil pressure, engine temp all fine. kinda seemed like it maybe came from the after treatment?

I planned on trying that in the morning when i have daylight, it seems to be at about half the engine speed here's an earlier video, I fixed the surging at the end but the knock is the same

On 8/21/2022 at 7:49 PM, Walkyrie_Engineering said:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HPRi2PrLsfg8fSkR8

3 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

https://f01.justanswer.com/Mikemcmillan77/e8702f01-27ef-4360-a632-19792eaa15ef_PV776-88941026.pdf

I checked today, I believe the timing is good. TDC mark and fly wheel "0" mark line up perfectly, engine runs smooth and just fine at first start. but as soon as the oil pressure reaches about 40 psi a knock develops sounds like its coming from the top of the engine, for the life of me I cant seem to find the culprit I thought I had it when I discovered the number 5 cylinder Injector arm was missing the oil plug on the roller side and was gushing oil out, I replaced the rocker and no avail the knock is still there there doesn't seem to be any flat spots all the rollers seem fine the ran the overhead and all the adjustments were good the some of the exhaust ones may have been a a smidge loose but nowhere near enough to cause a knock i'd think, brand new rebuilt head, and injectors plus I'd think if it was the valves knocking it would be from ignition not a few seconds later... the only co-relation to the knock seems to be oil pressure. I swear I'm about to pull my hair out

13 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

Hello everyone. Its been a while, back from vacation. The D12 had the gauge as well. It was positioned to the "A position" on the gauge and the 11-13 and 16 used position B. 

Whenever I do/did a camshaft job I always ensure that the engine is set to TDC. Zero on the flywheel housing and TDC on the camshaft. Make sure you have the correct backlash between the idler and the cam gear, otherwise you will have serious issues. 

V

 

 

What exactly are the symptoms of a bad backlash?

6 hours ago, Mackpro said:

I always seemed to get the cam gear a tooth off either way when doing head/cam job . I started using the cam timing tool and never had a problem. https://www.freedomracing.com/j-44514-b-engine-timing-kit.html?___store=default&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0oyYBhDGARIsAMZEuMstKXaxSdz6q2TO3MjL_8ZSRJs5c6rzxSV-w61Hq6M2SV2d1ygTAGEaAmnLEALw_wcB

so you think it may be a little off timing then?