VTS

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yes sir, i understand.  however,  I was hoping to help him do it once..  I guess, because I am not there to see if he is up on #1 and starting on #1..  I am certainly not trying to be a,,, well you know..  always good to hear from you 'F'   jojo

No worries.

21 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Is this pointer factory or did someone add it?i use the flywheel method because it's dead on..check that the pointer coincides with the flywheel markings..also not trying to scare you but if you have damaged lifter rollers ,it would throw off you lash setting when engine is rotated....

Pointer is factory and Im using a Mack manual. I will look for the flywheel marks to see if they are the same as the damper. I will look into the rollers...

14 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Damper? timing marks are at the flywheel.Clearance or lash is checked at the piston's compression stroke.if you're setting valves for 1 other valves will be in overlap .

This engine has a damper that is stamped with the cylinder numbers 120deg apart. There is a pointer bolted to the block.  The book says to bar the engine over to place #1 cyl to the pointer on compression stroke and set the lash. Then bar over to the next cyl in the firing order (5) and set that one, and so on thru the entire firing order. My problem is that after setting the lashes, there are exhaust valves that have more clearance than they were set for after barring the crank to the next cylinder.  Like the cam wasnt at its lowest profile when it was lined up on the damper. Any thoughts?

When I set the valve lash, there are other exhaust valves that seem to have waaay more clearance than they should. For example, when at the 1/6 mark on the damper for cyl 1, the 3 and 5 exh valves have a ton of clearance. Rotate crank to set cyl 5, and 2 other exh valves will have alot of clearance. I have set the valves 3 times, to the same effect. Is this normal?  Is the cam different in a e7 vs em7? 

Thanks in advance

On 2/4/2022 at 7:24 PM, JoeH said:

Call your dealer and get the part number from the heads for your truck.  Use VIN from other years/models to check compatibility.  Chances are your head # supersedes to another number, so make note of that number to see what else might have it.  VIN #'s can be had easily from online auction/sales sites.

So I did exactly that and found quite a few that are compatible, although I think the parts guy was a little irritated with me.  Armed with alot more knowledge, Ive spent 12 hrs on the computer in the last 5 days looking for decent take-offs. The owner of the truck called me today to say "Piss on it, buy some reman ones".   

9 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Have you checked the deck to see if its flat?  I built a '90 E-7 2 years ago, and bought heads from PAI.. no problems with the engine. be carefull with the exhaust manifold, there are none available.  Jojo

The deck is in good shape. Got lucky i suppose. Id love to buy reman heads, but ive been given a tight budget for this project.

11 hours ago, Mackpro said:

Here is a link to the Mack Reman center catalog and it can be used it see what’s compatible, https://www.bergeystruckcenters.com/efs/wp/domains/www.bergeystruckcenters.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/REMACK-Product-Technical-Brochure_compressed.pdf

Thank you Mackpro.  The water is a little muddy on this project. It is a 1991 block, but it has newer style sleeves that take the flat fire rings, which leads us to believe it has been rebuilt. We bought a pair of heads for the same engine from a yard , but 1 of them failed a visual inspection (crack between valves), so we're trying to figure out compatibility options for the 1 we need

We have a 91 RD with an EM7-300.  The engine was overheated and it ruined both heads, so were looking for used replacements. Are the heads on an E Tech setup the same as earlier EM7s?  There are more options online for later model engines, we just dont know what is compatible. Thanks!