Todd71106

11 hours ago, Mackpro said:check the cables 

I’m on my way down there right now. That’s the first thing I’ll check. That makes sense because I replaced the starter a few weeks ago and had the batteries disconnected.

Greetings. 

I have a 2013 Mack granite with an MP8. Yesterday, the DEF gauge and the oil temperature gauge started bouncing back-and-forth and the engine brake started acting erratic.  Sometimes the engine brake works sometimes it didn’t. It’s not slowing the truck down like it normally does. All three events started simultaneously not sure where to start, I’m guessing it’s something electrical. Has anyone had a similar experience?

Are you running aftermarket LED headlights? If so, you may need a load equalizer.

I put the Doorman 8885126 & 8885127 in my 2013 GU713. I went with high quality LED Bulbs and load equalizers / anti flicker canbus decoders. They really light up the oil field lease roads at night !
 

1 hour ago, fjh said:But where is the soot coming from or did I read something wrong? you have two different issues here! ?

Just sayin!

They said they did not see any soot in the fuel tanks. what I saw it coming through the return line was a lot of diesel fuel evidently. He said there was some algae in the bottom of my fuel tanks.

Finally got the truck back, and after 1 day of hauling 130 barrels of salt water around  the issue seems to have been resolved. 
A couple weeks before I had the injectors and cups replaced, I replaced the fuel filter housing with a cheap Chinese Amazon replacement. The primer pump on the cheap replacement would not fully seal when locked down. This caused the loss of fuel pressure under load. Luckily I still had the original Mack housing. They swapped it back out and the fuel pressure issues were gone. I saved $200 on the part but lost thousands in down time. I won’t be replacing any critical parts with cheap Chinese stuff ever again !

I’ve had the same problem with my 2 outside marker lights. I believe it turned out to be a connection problem on the power distribution block under the hood on the drivers side firewall. 

I finally got the truck back 3 weeks ago. It ran good for a day or 2. It was loosing power at higher RPM's as the fuel tank level decreased. There are no more bubbles returning to the fuel tank. Instead there is now soot flowing back into the fuel tank. I took it back to the shop and they have had it now for 3 weeks. They all ready got my $6500 so they were in no hurry to fix the problem. They just started working on it yesterday. They are telling me there is zero PSI fuel pressure under load. They don't seem to want to address the soot problem. Would a loose injector cause soot to flow back into the tank? maybe re-using stressed fasteners? 

Right now, my biggest fear is that he will replace one or some of the injectors, but charge me for all 6. But, at some point you have to trust someone. 

Just an update here. 
The diesel repair shop replaced the injector cups and the truck actually runs worse when and if it starts up. Lots of bubbles in the fuel tanks. They now plan to replace the injectors with a discounted labor rate. I have not paid them anything yet. They quoted me $6000 for everything. Starting to wish that I would’ve attempted this job myself.

On 12/19/2022 at 6:03 AM, Joey Mack said:

I like the idea of a coolant flush.. an old timer taught me years ago to use Cascade..  It was for oil, however,. It cleans..  Jojo

Interesting. Are you talking about Cascade automatic dishwasher powder detergent ?

I’ve actually researched this quite a bit lately. I have learned that the $300 kits you see on Amazon and eBay are single use kits at best. They may or may not hold up long enough to finish the job. I was considering doing the job myself because my buddy had a brand new kit he got off of Amazon. I heard a few stories about the tools failing halfway through the job. In the end, I took it to a shop due to the cost of the real deal tools, and my timeframe constraints.

The local Mack house here in Shreveport actually agreed to do the job. I was upfront with them and told them it’s an oil field truck and has been deleted. Those lease roads are extremely rough on trucks. I am in there every week buying parts, so they see me a lot. They’ve got the best prices in town on brake system, suspension parts, and batteries. Even before my discount.
Anyway they quoted me $3400 for the 6 pack and $1700 labor, which I thought was fair. Only problem was the 2 week wait. The independent shop is actually $300 more, but the turnaround is only 2 to 3 days. Based on my past experience with the shop, that actually means one week. Lol.

Thanks everyone. I would like to do the job myself, but can’t afford anymore downtime. The guy that deleted my truck is going to change out the injector cups for $2040. I’ll reply back if this solves my problems. 

Will the injector cups eventually get bad enough that the truck just will not start up anymore?

I definitely DO NOT want to do the job. Problem is finding a shop or someone in NW Louisiana or East Texas that can and will do the job. Truck has been down for 2 weeks now. I was going to get all the parts so when I find someone it would speed up the process. I might have a lead on a shop in Waskom, TX

30 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

 Do you have the book, or at least that section of the book..  ?  jojo

I’ve got a 28 page service bulletin from 2013. I don’t have a service manual. I know I guy with the injector pullers and installers, but he has never used those tools, so they are still brand new brand. 

I’ve got a deleted 2013 GU713 day cab oilfield truck. It’s got an MP8-415c with 330k miles.

Anybody know the size of the banjo bolt on the front of the cylinder head for the fuel return line ? I know a 22mm socket fits it. I want to make a fitting with clear hose to check for air bubbles and foam. 
The inside of both fuel tanks looks like an aquarium with all the bubbles.

I’ve replaced the fuel filter housing, filters, fuel pump and the fuel lines are good.
I got the truck last year with 270k and it has always been hard to start. It has become increasingly difficult to start. It has developed a loss in power and a shaking shudder around 1200-1400 rpm and sometimes the engine dies.

Is there an aftermarket set of cups that performs better or of higher quality? What’s the difference between the $1500 set of injectors on eBay and Amazon vs. the Mack injectors that the dealer say they can’t get right now ?

I do most of my own work on the truck, but I’m not sure I want to attempt a job like this. It’s difficult to find a shop in the area that is willing to take on this job. 

Did you ever get this resolved ?

5 hours ago, fjh said:

Does the dash show any malfunction lights? Is the truck auto or manual trans? NO ? then  The V.E.B.C is the engine l

No engine lights on. Truck is a 13  speed manual. It’s really not a big deal other than making look like I don’t know how to drive a manual and wearing out my brake linings faster. It sure is nice though when it works. I guess I’ll pull that valve cover off or get permission to swap engine brake switches with another Mac truck on the lot to see if that is the problem.

On 3/12/2022 at 4:11 PM, Joey Mack said:

you reckon the V.E.B.C. is failing or maybe a bad oring in it??  jojo

What is the V.E.B.C.? Variable engine brake control? That’s just a guess. Lol. There is no power loss.

Yesterday for the first time the engine brake shut itself off even though the switch was turned on. It came back on about 10 seconds later.  I am pulling 130 barrel tanker, so that engine brake really makes a big difference. I don’t know if it matters, but the truck was deleted about six months ago. This is my first big truck. I chose this model because of the camelback suspension and the rough lease Roads that I am running.

Greetings 2013 Mack Granite MP8 13 Speed 300k miles 

My engine brake seems to not be fully disengaging. The deceleration function shuts off, but the part that makes it hard to shift does not. Are used to be able to turn the switch on and off a couple times and it would fully disengage. Now, when accelerating, at about 1500 RPM the engine makes a swooshing over rev sound. If anybody out there could point me in the right direction, as to where to start looking, it would be greatly appreciated.

The problem ended up being a bad ignition switch. Some of the wires were frayed and the solders loose. The Mack House charged me $110 for a new one with out tumblers or keys.

Definitely going to check into those Camshaft Position Sensor issues. 

ABS
MID 136 SID 4 FMI 14 136: ABS Wheel Speed Sensor, 4: Drive Front (R) 2  14: Special instructions
MID 136 SID 103 FMI 9 136: ABS Wheel Speed Sensor, 103: Yaw Rate Sensor, 9 abnormal update rate. 
ENGINE
SPN 636, Camshaft Position Sensor, FMI 2 Data erratic intermittent or incorrect
SPN 636, Camshaft Position Sensor, FMI 3 Voltage above normal, or shorted to high source
SPN 647, Engine Fan Clutch Output Device Driver, FMI 5 Current below normal or open circuit
CLUSTER
MID 140 PID 177, Transmission Oil Temperature FMI 5 Gearbox oil temperature sensor