Miriam Romero

We have decided to buy a laptop with the Mack software and all the cables needed. We are tired of guessing and paying $200 to $400 everytime someone comes to help us using their computer. It’s expensive but we can work on many trucks and be the one charging for diagnosing troubles. 
Since my husband is an “old school” Mack mechanic, it’s past time for us to get into the new century of computerized trucks. 
Now, let’s hope my minimum computer skills will help us learn. The mechanic hooking us up with what we need says he can teach me basics and the computer will do the rest. 
Thanks for your input! I really appreciate you and all the others replies and I will update our progress. 

16 minutes ago, fjh said:

No it doesn't! Sensors are just as good as the info they get ! You can Guess and change parts All you want with these you need to have the program on a computer screen and A fare bit of knowledge and mostly experience of  the system to go right to the problem to fix AND a whole lot of luck! Go to a dealer and have the codes read maybe they can fix or send u in the right direction ! You can have anything from a failed  7th injector ,or EGR cooler to a pluged Venturi tube  causing this!

7th injector replaced. Venturi tube is clean.

My husband has been a Mack mechanic for 30+ years. This DPF system is fairly new to him but his partner taught mechanic classes for Mack for years and is very knowledgeable in this. We need lots of luck at this point. 
one guy said it could be stuck open or partially open egr valve. Another points to turbo. The turbo sounds exactly as it always has but I’m just the driver/wife of mechanic. I should add…frustrated wife/driver. This is overwhelming. 3 expert Mack mechanics and still broke down. 
thank you for your input! Husband says he’s done everything that you’ve said.

the mechanic with the laptop has the last updated laptop tools and said the regen is burning it all off correctly. He said it’s suppose to take 30 minutes and it does and the temps are spot on.

His partner has the laptop with the Mack tools. He said that all the temps were right. The regen takes 30 minutes and that is all correct. We took the filters off before the and had them cleaned. They were 45% clogged but after being cleaned, it showed 1%

he is taking the filters off again right now.

instead of buying new filters, he is borrowing some off of another truck to test it.

one thing is like to add…while test driving it, the a/c would blow hot air as if it were a heater. Then after about 15 minutes of driving, it started working and was cold. I don’t know if this is related but somehow I feel it is?!
 

Actually, there’s very little black smoke but we can’t even use the truck or we’d be stuck on the roadside all day. It derated yesterday and the driver had to come back in at 35mph. 
thankfully we stay in 100 mile radius.

We hooked it up to a laptop and only got a code 3936. I test drive it a couple hours ago and it needed to regen within 30minutes.

We changed the egr diff sensor but that didn’t help. Still asking for regen.

I parked it and think I’m out of business.

2 broken trucks and very little money left. It’s a very sad day for me. I gave it my all.

😞. Thank you

Dpf differential sensor also

Egr diff pressure sensor

3936

4811

thank you for replying 

My 2012 ch613 keeps asking for regen every 30 minutes. The only code calls for sensor. We bought new sensor from Mack today

installed and test drove. It ask for regen before I got back. 30 minutes.

it’s reginning now as I type.

any ideas? Please help

On 5/10/2022 at 8:14 AM, fjh said:

Yup model of truck would help ! CH or RD ? check the tube that goes to the compressor inlet  from the manifold

hose there quite often gets a hole in it! Any kind of boost leak! all will effect mileage! instantly!

Ch e7 460

Now my 2012 is regenning every 30 minutes!

geez! Will it ever end???

the only code for this one was the sensor. We bought the sensor today $1000 at Mack.

I just test drove it and it’s still needed a regen before I got back. It’s regenning now as I type.

any ideas on this one?

On 5/9/2022 at 8:29 PM, JoeH said:

How's your Pyrometer reading? How about your Boost gauge? We just replaced the charge air cooler on our '95 E7-350 and it's a night and day difference. Picked up 10 psi of boost and dropped 2-300 degrees on the pyro.  Had a cracked charge air cooler.

I’ll have hay hubs (mechanic) check that  we just put a new  charge air cooler!

12 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Rebuild injectors and run the overhead. 

11 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

How many miles is the route? Check and see if there's much black smoke, you could be over fueling but I doubt that would make a 17 gallon difference. Park it in a parking lot or find some cement to see if you have any leaks. Good luck 

546 miles

I’ve always used 99 gallons on the same route for 3 years. Last two weeks I’m using 17 extra gallons and can’t find any reason for it. Does anyone have any ideas of what could cause this?

I am relaying all of your suggestions to my husband who has been a Mack mechanic for over 30 years. I’ve never seen him stumped until this. 
Thanks again, I appreciate you guys!

my puppy’s got her pep back!😂

btw, I’m the driver and my hubs is the mechanic...it works for us😊

My husband said that he could blow through it until it heated up and it would swell up inside of the hose once heated and he couldn’t blow through it. 
The only place open 24/7 that may by chance have that braided hose is Freightliner in Houston. This tank has fine metric threads and I’d bet that Mack is the only place to get it. The new air tank had an extra hole so we had to get a plug from Mack this morning. 
Thanks again! I’m grateful for your input. I do believe we are back in business...with a whole new air brake system😂

Thanks, we just found it! It’s an air hose collapsing when it heats up. We were able to make up a hose to try it. It’s working! 

I’ll go Monday and get the right hose.

again, thanks for commenting. We did use all of your suggestions!

Well crap, the new tank didn’t solve it. 
I don’t know what to do!

it holds at 80psi with engine at 1000rpm

never have experienced this trouble.

5 hours ago, Hayseed said:

I just noticed This ^^^^ it needs to be sorted our First.. In My opinion..

6 hours ago, Hayseed said:

I would Check that the Airline from the Compressor to the Wet Tank isn't carboned Up..

I will do that! Thanks for commenting. I’m at my wits end with this! 30+ years in trucking, married to a Mack specialist who’s mentor is a Mack teacher and they are stumped! I guess computers can diagnose and fix everything🤷‍♀️
thank you for your suggestion! I will check that line!

5 hours ago, Swishy said:

yahr wot seed sed

we have a mack th@ passes a bit of oil down to the 1st tank, the oil n heat carbonizes n clogs up the main pipe th@ restricts the air flow

also if U drain all the air tanks n put the shop air in the 1st tank n see n listen to where the air is go n

cya

 

Thanks, I will try that! 
Im hoping its not the New/rebuilt compressor. Those things aren’t easily accessible.

thanks for your suggestions!

miriam

Im at the end of my rope! 2012 Mack red engine MP7, rebuilt Wabco Compressor, new governor, working dryer but not sufficient enough air. It takes me 5 mins of 1600rpms to build up to 90psi. If I lower the rmp's, it goes down to 50 psi. no leaks. The primary tank is stopped up but I don't know with what. I bypassed the primary tank and air dryer and still can only get 90psi.  This truck sat for 2 years so I'm thinking maybe oil was in the tank and dried out? Ive never experienced this problem before. My mechanic can fix anything and he is stumped...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.