IdleUp

If nothing is broken just clean everything and oil the O rings with motor oil and reassemble.

I was just curious how you get the rubber seal in that grove when you assemble the whole thing - it takes some pretty good pressure to hold all that together.

Thanks

I was shifting gears today and all of a sudden I started losing air from the area of the shifter handle. I found one of the two screws had loosened up. Anyhow I removed the other screw the Low / low shifter parts flew out which consist of two springs and plastic piece and a rubber seal. Is there any trick with regard to re-assembling the shifter.

Many Thanks!!

It's unbelievable that someone can treat a vehicle that is paying their bills so bad. If the inside looks this bad, I can only imagine just how good he serviced the truck. It was almost painful to drag all the trash out of this truck!

Believe it or not - I used my pressure cleaner right in the cab to get the grim out!

Hey guys - I just posted some images of my Mack on the other board:

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?sho...amp;#entry30192

just a heads up. save your torn door panels and have them remade at a local shop.Alot of interior parts seam to be NLA from mack, I had one remade last year for around $80

looking good!

Thanks for the info and the kind words!

I've had my Mack Superliner around 2 weeks now and I thought I would put up a few before and after images.

Thanks

Rob,

Thanks a million for the Scans of the air network and the cover removal procedure.

I'm going down today to pressure clean the Beast this way I can see what going on.

Thanks -Mike

I just picked up my 1990 Superliner last week - I'm sure the guys here will be able to answer any of your questions!

Mike

Yes Correct.Mark the lines when you take em off .

OK, here's a few images of the lines running off the reverse air piston.

Two lines are T'ed off with one running to the shifter and the other to this valve - from the valve (like you guys said) it runs to the engine as shown. Can't figure out what this valve does.

I didn't get a change to cap the line today, but i will next time I get out there to see if it makes any difference.

Thanks

Where

Glen is heading with his coment is if it goes forward to the intake it is the torque limit line!

if that line is causing issues simply cap it off and plug the t fitting on the trans.

It's so dirty under there it's hard to tell but it looks like it goes up to the cluster at the shifter boot - then the other line goes to some sort of valve mounted on the drivers side frame. I'll trace the line today!

The arrow on the this images is almost exactly where the T is located. This is the correct shifter correct?

Ok, you guys have to be getting sick of me with this shifter problem - But I noticed today there is two lines on the end of the aft end of reverse cylinder instead of one.

Looks like one goes up to the shifter and the other goes to the frame and hooks into some sort of valve with other lines going to it. Is this a quick release valve or is it something else?

Thanks

Thanks Guys - I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Bro ,ID be checking the plumbing as well!

When reverse is selected you should have air at the forward port of the reverse cyl No air to the rear port of that cyl (if you remove that rear line there should be no air coming from or going to it! if itscoming from it its leaking inside and needs orings!)Also when reverse is selected you will have air to both sides of the spliter cyl holding the split in neutral.

I picked up the O-ring kit and a cover gasket today - I included a part layout below the guy gave me. I'm going to check the airlines as suggested. Is the reverse piston the one on the right #4?

The guy at the dealer said it could be the shifter control!!!

Thanks

YOU CAN GET STUFF FOR A RD OR HAVE YOURS REDONE THE WAY YOU WANT THEM

Will the panels for the RD fit my Superliner? If so would I order them from Mack?

Thanks

YOU CAN GET STUFF FOR A RD OR HAVE YOURS REDONE THE WAY YOU WANT THEM

Will the panels for the RD fit my Superliner? If so would I order them from Mack?

Thanks

Thanks so much for all the info - I'm going down tomorrow to pick up the rebuilding kit. Rob did you find that image of the shifter plate, I'm curious what it looks like.

I finally figured out why it goes into reverse. If the air pressure is below 60 lbs then I can generally get it in reverse as many times as I like, however as soon as the buzzer goes back off, it won't go in reverse any longer. I thought someone told me it might be a quick release valve. I'm wondering if that's the problem.

Thanks

By the way, my email is: mail@rotory.com

Ok - I just shot these images of the rear shifter module from both sides - looks like it might be the one from the right side of the truck, ( upper image) I would imagine the wire goes to the backup beeper and dash light.

Do I just remove the 4 bolts on the end of the unit to access the shifter O rings?

Ok I'll snap an image of the rear module today so I know what I'm dealing with.

Thanks!!

My major blunder it's a 1990 have no idea why I put that year!

Thanks

Thought i would post a few images of the engine of my 1990 Superliner - I see a few leaks here and there. The ID plate says it's a 400 hp. As you can see, the guy who owned it did absolutely nothing to the truck other than drive it.

I finally brought my (new) truck home tonight. The guy who had it trashed the poor truck beyond reason. I would like to fix her up a bit.

Is there a location that sells the interior parts ( door - rear panels - dash parts etc.) mine looks pretty darn bad. She's a 2000 Superliner. Here's a few images.

I don't remember the engine that is in it but I seem to remember an E6-350. If the truck does not have a multi-grade oil installed such as 15W-40, but rather a straight weight such as SAE 30, it will be damned hard to crank over at low temps unless it is equipt with an immersion heater that works.

I would wrap a blanket, or tarp around the lower part of the truck and turn on a torpedo heater, (salamander) pointed under the truck for about 15 minutes. It will crank right over when the oil is thinned down a little bit from the heat.

I would plan to change the oil and service the truck right after you got it to it's new place of residence.

I'm not a big fan of ether, but a small shot in the air cleaner, or pipe to the turbo is where it goes. Best if someone is cranking the engine while another shoots the ether sparingly.

There are no preheaters, or glow plugs to be concerned with. The engine is direct injected and does not use them.

Rob

Rob,

I finally got the rag started and drove it home I removed th batteries and charged them up - I snapped a few images of the reverse module just to confirm this is the right unit. I assume I just remove the four bolts right?

I also posted a thread on the interior forum looking for some interior parts.

Rob,

Let me ask you a question - I finally got to pick up my truck today and would you believe it wouldn't start so it's still sitting down there. It fired right up every other time i went down there.

I guess the 16 degree weather might be the fault. I have 3 good batteries, I even jumped the battery with my truck and it still turned over so slow it wouldn't start. Is this normal for these Macks?

Does the engine have pre-heat?

Where should I shoot the ether?

Thanks

Thanks Rob - it all makes sense now!

Bundle Up!