fireflem

92 inches

Hello, I am need of a throttle cable for a 1965 c model  mack fire engine. Anyone know where I can get one or have one made?

hello

Do you have the shaft that is in the transfer case (gearbox) that allows the truck to go from pump to road?

It is the short drive shaft that goes into the transfer case. The flange does look like the one pictured but it has a gear that comes out the back side of the pictured that looks like the PTO on the back of a large tractor. I will try to get a picture of it on Friday, the engine is at the shop. the rear brakes are locked up on it still.

thanks again

fireflem

Well I need some help. I have a Mack fire engine 65' C95 open cab. I broke it and need help getting it fixed.. The brakes locked up on it and I broke the drive train. Not the drive shaft but the part that goes from the transmission to the pump / transfer case. It has a flange that has about 10 bolts that goes down to a part that looks like the PTO gear on the back of a large tractor.

Two questions

1. Can it be taken apart and fixed or does it need to be machined?

2. How can i get the broken part out, do I need to remove the pump / transfer case or just disassemble the lower half?

Thanks in advance

fireflem

Name: Mack C95 (1965)

Date Added: 14 January 2009 - 10:54 AM

Owner: fireflem

Short Description: 1965 Fire Engine 1000 gpm Pump.

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Hello,

I am having a problem with a 65 C95, it acts like it does not have the power to get out of its own way. It has a 707c gasoline motor, I thought it had bad gasoline but it is not that. If I can get it up to 2200 rpms it jumps and runs like it did but most of the time I can not get it up to 2200. I took it to the shop and they replaced the governor distributor linkage and it is a little better but not really. I was thinking a carb rebuild but the change in performance at 2200 rpms is troubling. What do you think?

Gentlemen,

I was wondering if there would be any benefit to convert a 65’ C95 to negative ground. How much would it cost and how difficult will it be? I wanted to add a radio system (am/fm) for tailgating and party use but it is an open cab and looking at a Marine type radio. What are your thoughts?

thanks

Fireflem

Flem-

I have to wonder what it would gain you if you spent the kind of money and time it would take to properly patch and seal the tank. Having experience with firetrucks, I might be hesitant to use a rhino-liner or gas tank patching material. If this stuff does not properly adhere to the steel of the tank, it could potentially start flaking off in large chunks. These could then lodge in the volutes of the pump impeller, or inside the pump piping and/or valve assemblies.

What are your intentions with the truck? Is it an antique you are using for show/parades/pleasure kind of purposes, or will you be using it for some kind of business? If this is the case, then I would invest the time and money into removing the top of the tank, properly sandblasting the entire interior, making any corrective welds/patches needed (by a professional welder- this is not something to be done by a shadetree welder) and then priming the surface, and paint using a 2-part epoxy paint.

-OR-

Have a new fiberglass or poly tank fabricated and installed. This is expensive, but most of them come with lifetime warranties against leaks. Two manufacturers that come to mind are Custom Fiberglass Products in Orwigsburg, Pa. and United Plastic Fabricators (dont know where their headquarters is located.) We had a CFP tank custom made and installed in our 1978 Hahn, and it was an excellent investment.

If the truck is intended solely for parades/pleasure/etc, then why restore the tank at all? I own and operate a 1958 FWD pumper with a 500 gallon tank that was actually replaced with a new steel tank in 1998, however as I keep in in an un-heated garage, coupled with the fact that there really is no need for me to keep the tank full, I just keep it dry. It also helps save on fuel costs (water @8.3 pounds per gallon, X 500 = lotzza fuel!)

Hey thanks for the info I think we are going to try the sandblasting and prime and paint. Do not have the money to replace the tank at this time.

FireFlem

Cut a hole in it big enough to crawl through. Go inside. Clean it up and give it a coat of paint.

It has plates on the top for access but what is the best kind of paint to use?

Anyone have any thoughts on that to do for a water tank that has been empty for the last 10-12 years and has a lot of rust?

I think the cable drive tach runs off of the distributor. Check and see if the distributor has a second output. If it is diesel it may drive off the alternator. It depends on the engine. A dual distributor ignition may use one for each tach. If it is gas power and you want a second tach I would use a Stewart Warner as they look correct and were used by a lot of manufacturers as original equipment. Hope it helped some.

Thank you everyone, you have given me somewhere to start.

Fireflem

Hello All!

I am looking for information about the set up on a C model that has two Tachometer, one on the pump panel and one in the dash. I know that this was an option on this model but mine did not come that way. The previous owner added an electronic tachometer but I have a second cable tachometer. Does anyone know where the split is made to connect the one in the dash? How long the cable going to the dash? If any one has any info that would be great!

Hey, I have a 1965 C95F Fire Engine and it needs tires. It has the old split rim Mack wheels with 10 00 20 tires. Should I stay with this classic setup or are there any better options out there?

Thanks

Bruce