kennylane

Name: Mack CF-600 (1972)

Date Added: 27 June 2008 - 05:15 PM

Owner: Kenny Lane

Short Description: 1,000 GPM fire engine, 60,000 actual miles, 673 diesel, 5 speed transmission

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I have a 1972 CF-600 Mack with the same engine I believe and it's on the passenger side of the engine on mine.

i bought a 1979 cf-600 with the the676 engine and need to find where to add engine oil

Look closely all around the handle where it goes over the shaft. See if there is a round drive pin that goes through the handle, the shaft, and the handle again on the other side. It could possibly be threaded but I'll bet you drive it out with a punch. I hope this helps.

I am in the process of removing my pump panel aceess panel on my 85LS to get inside the pump. I have everything removed but for the life of me I can't remove the knob for the transfer valve. It is oval shaped and looks like it is threaded on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had the same problem with my 72 Mack. I had no luck in Nashville finding lenses that fit the body. I had to replace the entire assembly.

Hello all. This is my 1970 CF Mack that I bought. Where can I find the lenses for the ICC lights on the roof? Mine are all cracked with some of them taped together!

I'm in the market for a used Federal Q siren for my Mack. Is anyone aware of any bargains? I know a bargain on a Q is unheard of but if you're aware of one in need of re-chroming at a decent price please let me know. The chromed bullet is not important because I plan to mount it in the front panel and that area is recessed behind the panel.

Allison...you were in the right place to add oil. The bottom plug is to drain the oil and the top plug is to add it. How do you know it needs oil? If it comes out when you remove the plug it sounds like no oil is needed. If it were mine, I would remove both plugs to drain the gear box, replace the lower plug, and refill it through the top hole. Do not add it through the hole in the center of the wheel.

<br />Ok guys im trying to oil my steering box for the trailer of my 57 tiller truck. Under the tillers seat is a gear box that the steering collumn runs down to. This box has a fill plug in the top and the bottom.. I took out the top plug and oil welled up out!!?? hhhhmm ok ... i figured i would open the top plug and simply add some gear oil.. obviously there is oil above this plug to make it well up and out so im trying to figure out where to add oil. I went up to the steering wheel and took off the center cap and found a large nut holding the wheel on. In the middle of this nut is about a 1" opening that seems to run the length of the steering shaft down to that gear box.. IS this where you add oil.... down this hole in the center of the steering wheel??? It does seem to be a shaft inside of a shaft. The outer Chrome shaft is stationary. ?? <br /><br />Thanks in advance!!<br /><br />Allison<br />

I understand that a heater operates off of the hot water generated by cooling the engine. have a 1972 Mack CF-600 with a 673 diesel engine. Both of the valves that feed the heater core in the cab are open. Yet I get no heat in the cab. I first suspected the heater core, removed it, and water flows through it freely. The core looks like it was replaced not long ago. I see the temperature control valve in the cab opening when the temp control is pulled. Still no heat. When I feel of the heater hoses coming to the core, neither is hot. Has anyone got any suggestions? I've wondered if possibly one of the valves in the heater hose is turning but is still not opening. But I think I recall feeling of the hose past the valve and it was warm. What do you guys think. What am I missing?

You see them on eBay occasionally, but they usually go anywhere from 600 to 1500 bucks depending on the size and condition.

I found one from an American LaFrance on Craig's List. After a little negotiating I bought it for $125. It had to be chromed but when finished I had just under $400 in the bell. I'm sure those kind of deals are few and far between though.

Can anyone tell me if the CF600 Mack fire apparatus had a negative or positive ground? Also can you tell me how to convert if it's positive ground? Are wiring diagrams available anywhere?

Does anyone have a source for original equipment gauges in a 1972 CF600 Mack Pumper? To be more specific, I'm in need of the battery condition gauge that monitors dual batteries.

Hi guys, this is my first post so bear with me.

Long story short I have a fourwheeler that I am trying to get rid of and I got an interesting email asking if I would trade it for a fire truck. The truck is a 1972 Mack cf600 pumper with a 750 gallon tank. It has a turbo charged straight 6 diesel and a five speed transmission with about 35,000 miles on it.

I don't really know a lot about old mack trucks or fire trucks, and I haven't really been able to find out a lot about these trucks.

My main question is what is a truck like this worth? Is there any market for these trucks?

I attached a picture of the truck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Daniel

Daniel,

To get an accurate value of the truck, you need to ask a lot of questions. What is the condition of the trucks motor, transmission, fire pump, suspension and steering, booster tank, body, clutch, etc, etc, etc. I purchased a 1972 CF600 Mack with everything in working order and no major mechanical problems for $3,600. I may be interested in this truck if you are not if you would provide me with the contact information.

Just wondering what do you do to winterize your rig. Do you use antifreeze in your tank or do you just try to drain all of the water out? Also do you do anything special for the motor?

Adapt an old discharge cap to have an air chuck. Connect you air compressor to that cap and open that valve. Remove all intake and discharge caps. Then, with the entire system under air pressure, open one valve at a time, blow out the water, close the valve, and move to the next valve. Make sure you do this for all valves including tank fill and pump to tank. Also do the same with each drain valve including the main pump drain. You will sometimes have to wait on your compressor to catch up. Do this several times on all valves until you see no water being expelled when you open the valve. I hope this helps.

looking for a chrome bell for my new toy. 1957 b 85 fire truck anybody have any leads????

Bells of all kinds at this place.

http://www.brosamersbells.com/fire/index.html

Gentlemen,

I'm hoping to get my 1948 Mack Type 45 under cover and running in the next couple of weeks before the snow flies. Not being of sound mechanical knowledge, I look to anyone on this board for suggestions as to where to start this process. Some background: engine was last turned over in June of '07. It is a Continental 330 four-cycle gasoline engine with all six cylinders cast in one block. Rebuilt in 1984. Several people have told me to lubricate the crap out of it before turning it over and I could not agree more. Certain that I have condensation in the gas tank so I'm wondering if I should siphon it or does it have a drain plug? Have the battery on a charger right now. I'd certainly appreciate anyone out there who could provide a little insight/direction as to where to start and what products are best suited for this initial start after a couple of years of inactivity. The MORE DETAIL, the better as suggestions come in....

Thanks.

You failed to provide a lot of information that would be helpful. Regarding the engine, I would turn it over by hand with a socket on the front of the crank and a long pull bar. See how it feels. Is it seized up....or does the engine turn over with the same resistance at all points in the rotation? If it does not turn by hand or has hard spots when turning the crank, you probably have internal problems with the engine. Was the fuel tank closed or has it sat without a fuel cap? Are there obvious signs of rust when you look down the filler neck? If the truck has been in service, and the fuel tank has not been left open to the elements with no cap on it, I would add a limited amount of fuel along with a moisture treatment. I would then disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the fuel filter, and while someone turns the engine over, I'd catch the fuel in something so that I could examine it for contamination. If there is no debris and the fuel does not appear contaminated, I would connect the line back to the engine. I'm no mechanic...but growing up my Dad gave me a significant amount of common horse sense. I don't think what I am suggesting would heart anything. Let me know if I'm off base guys.

We have an 75' Aerialscope Ex-FDNY. From the turntable we can fully operate the tower (Left, Right, In, Out, Up, Down) From the bucket we can only operate (In, Out, Up, Down). Any ideas on where to start looking or what the issue might be. Any help or guidence to a resource would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

We have had similar problems before and it was the collector ring under the turntable.

Please enlighten us all......

The suspense is killing me....

I've not yet identified it. It measures 24" x 13 3/8" x 1/4" thick. Being that thick, I think it's more than a decorative piece. I feel like it's a floor board access panel that you remove to get to something, maybe a transmission, underneath. They would make it that thick otherwise.

What are the dimensions, I know a place it might work and how much would you want for it?

It doesn't belong to me but I can put you in touch with the man that has it. It measures 24" x 13 3/8" x 1/4" thick. What is it though?

Looks like a genuine Mack severe service welcome mat. Then again, I could be wrong.

Severe service welcome mat? Where did it go, on the driver's side floor under the pedals?

Looks like a step plate from a Mack fire truck. Wear in the middle looks like bolt holes for equipment holder of some sort.

What year model would you guess? I have a 1972 CF and there's nothing like this on my truck.

Can anyone tell me what it is and what it goes on?

Can anyone tell me what this is, what it fits, and what it's worth?

The key to metal polishing is to let the polish do the work.

If the aluminum is corroded and etched bad enough to need sandpaper

and abrasive buffing, those are steps that take place prior to polishing,

obviously.

One of the little tricks that I have seen used on diamond plate, which is a little more difficult

to shine than polishing flat stock, is to use a piece of a good thick carpet.

A scrap about 8" square is manageable. Almost any brand name polish is fine. Just keep rubbing.

The blacker the residue, the better job you are doing.

Mother's has a couple of "Powerball" foam polishing tools available for use in a cordless drill.

These are a big help, although they don't last too long on the diamond plate.

Polishing metal is a pretty rewarding job. The results are always good to see.

But - After finishing one of Jimmy's W-900's recently - I like my all painted Macks pretty well!

Paul Van Scott

Yea Paul I have found that the diamond plate eats up pretty much everything in the form of a pad if you use it on a buffer or drill. I really wish that my truck had been all steel so that I could paint too.

OK thanks guys. I'll look into some of your ideas. I spent 18 years in another career doing auto body repair and painting so I'm very familiar with the use of buffers. I thing my problem has been that I've not been using the right product on the pad. Fell free to weigh in if you have other ideas.

With the collective experience here, surely someone has identified an effective way to restore aluminum diamond plate. I know I've had little luck finding a product that works. Let's hear what method you guys have discovered.