motts

Hi in have a 1987 E 6 4 valve 350 engine can anyone tell what the crankshaft timing should be set at when setting the injection pump to engine timing?

mine has the anerobic selenoid with a new diagphram and the truck has also been run with it removed and no differance as stated in early posts  so more than likely i am down to the pump or gov  is there any way to check the rack travel with it mounted on the engine and can these things be re timed by using air in the  static pressure test method?  going to run it on a bucket of fuel just to eliminate the supply system what kind of flow should i see out of the return line? as i still can not find any info on the fuel overflow valve.

Thanks

here is the latest info i can provide i took for a run with a boost gauge finally in the cab and what i am seeing is it will only get about to 5psi boost in low range before it revs out and in top gear i seen 18 psi once mostly it was around 16 psi so am i still chasing a fuel issue? 

the shaft and spline connection seems fine everything is rotating in sync 

shure seems to be gov/ pump related  is there anything else i can do or check out or is it best now to take it in and let pump  shop pull the pump and do the reinstall as i dont have the timing light tool to reset the pump engine timing 

one last thing i am going to check into is the manual talks about a fuel overflow valve on the pump may be faulty is there anyway that this can be checked out or just replace it?

On 2/10/2017 at 8:24 PM, RSD501 said:

My RW had a similar issue. The injector pump has a splined shaft that the throttle linkage connects to. The splines are worn off, and the throttle linkage would work as it should, but it would just spin on the the shaft coming out of the injector pump. Truck would rev up all the way with no load, but was a complete dog under load. 

i will look into this

Thank you

i don't  have any info on the gov/inj pump is there anything i could do to check the gov for proper operation or how do you tell if the rack is getting full travel?

yes mine too so that is what i went with if you have to do these orings the kits from the dealer will only supply you with one of the smaller ones which is what brought about this dielemma any way back to the patient injectors are back in and fired it up 20 psi on the lift pump at idle it didnt seem to change any when revved up. still only seeing 2 psi on the boost gauge and engine is slow to rev and exhaust color is mostly a blue color no black what so ever     so i take it that it is most likely a gov/inj pump issue       what do you suggest i should do from here?

Thank you

so i picked up the injectors and the new o ring kit has only 2 orings and 1 sealing washer and the manual and my memory tells me that there are 3 orings and 1 sealing washer and both the stealership and the injector shop are telling me i only need 2 but i am getting conflicting information as to which groove the little o ring goes into stealership says use the bottom slot and the injector shop says use  the top slot and leave the small weep hole exposed to cool the cylinder.

so can anyone  tell me which is right 

Thank you for the replies after i get the rebuilt injectors back in it i will test the pressure after the lift pump and let you what that is.

Thanks again

ok i so i picked up the the tools a did a compression test and good thing all cylinders were equal with that being said 400 psi is what i seen but i ask ? should this be seen on the 1st compression stroke as this took 3 bumps on the gauge to hit the 400 mark 1st hit on most  cylinders was around 250 and also the injector shop said that 5 of the 6 injectors were leaking and had bad spray patterns still waiting to get the rebuilts back. 

15 hours ago, j hancock said:

Put a T fitting and gauge after the transfer pump to verify fuel pres. It should be between 17-31 PSI under load.  Going to be hard because you can't get RPM out of it but you may have a clogged or collapsed fuel line between the tank and transfer pump.

i will give this a try i blew thru the lines when i replaced the lift pump and they seemed fine but as the wife says blowing and sucking ain't the same thing  

and a little update as i been poking around at it i rigged up some caps and did a leak test on the air charge cooler and it held 30 psi with no leaks 

this old dog has 670000 on the ticker i don';t know if the engine has ever had any werk performed on it or not but it does look like someone has been messin with the governor on the pump as all the wire dohickeys that hold the adj screws are missin. 

i went and yanked out the fuel injectors gonna send them out for testing i was gonna pick up one of them diesel compression test kits from the harbour co. and see what the compression is on it do you know what kind of numbers is should be seeing on it

Thank you

17 hours ago, 57 bcr said:

My '90 RD had a bad diaphram in the aneroid valve,that wouldn't let the rack open all the way. No smoke,little power. Not saying thats your problem,but something to check anyway.  Al

yes i found that was bad and i replaced it and that did not solve the problem which is why i ended up here you guys are awesome thank you 

Thanks for sharing all of them are beauties

Hi, ya'll i have a 1987 rss 688lst with a E6 4 valve well it starts and runs it just don't seem to make any power no black smoke slow to rev and build boost it has new fuel filters and a lift pump where do ya'll suggest i should start troubleshootin this thing i don't much know how on these here things any help would be greatly apprieciated

Thank you