56mercuryman

nothing is rusty, it looks ok, no twists or bends, not sure why it will not go on properly, am planning to pull it apart again, remove the clutch disk and then try it on the trans splines just to be sure.

I think I found the problem, the clutch disk is not quite on the splines correctly and is binding up, its pushed by the splines and is opening the pressure plate causing them to disengage, not sure how that is possible when the transmission and bell housing went together fine. I am not sure if perhaps there is a burr on the spine or not or why it did not slide on correctly. I am now having difficulty getting it loose enough to put it on the splines correctly. I have loosened off the transmission and still no go, these parts are extremely heavy and not easy to "jiggle" them into place. I am going to try and loosen off the pressure plate and try to move the disk around through the grease fitting plate on the bottom. If that does not work, then the motor will have to come out again and the clutch will have to be centered again. Any ideas on any easier ways?

i have a few also if you need them

the motor is not running yet I had just installed it. the transmission shifts fine however when you put it in gear and manually turn the engine over with a socket wrench the trans binds up and you cannot get it out of gear, if the truck is rocked it pops out. I do not think the trans is the issue its in between the clutch and that it is already engaged somehow. My guess is that somehow the throwout bearing is binding up and has disengaged the clutch already when the engine and trans went together. upon doing this there is no contact between the pressure plate and clutch thus allowing the engine to turn freely with the trans in gear and again why there is no clutch pedal. I have planned to use longer bolts on the bellhousing to allow me to seperate the engine and trans and see if i can free up the clutch or throwout bearing and then regain the proper clutch clearance. i just really do not want to pull the engine out again and really just wanted to know if the input shafts on mack 5-2 and mack 5-3 are the same or are bigger.

I recently installed a en401 in my b42, it has a 5-2 duplex. the engine went together with the transmission incredible well. it bolted together with no problem. however now there is no clutch pedal at all, you can push the clutch pedal and it does nothing, if you turn the engine over with the trans in gear the engine turns over freely and the truck does not move. I am stumped as the engine and the trans bolted together with no trouble and it appeared the splines slid together easily. I am thinking perhaps the spline on the 5-2 was smaller than the clutch disk and is now just spinning inside. are all the splines on these transmissions the same? is there something i may have missed? I hate to pull it apart again. any suggestions?

Name: Mack B42 (1965)

Date Added: 30 June 2008 - 03:55 PM

Owner: 56mercuryman

Short Description: 65 mack B42 en401 gas with duplex, a dump truck, currently not running, nice truck, no rust, 39,000 original miles.

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Name: Mack B61 (1957)

Date Added: 30 June 2008 - 03:53 PM

Owner: 56mercuryman

Short Description: 57 B61 with end673 diesel turbo, triplex trans, runs nice but she ain't pretty.

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I have two EN401's and both are factory painted gold. Long but burned off though.

I have a 65 mack B42 dump that came with a EN402 with a oil cooler unit on the block and a carb govenor. I have another 59 mack B42 tractor that came with a EN401 with a carb govenor but no oil cooler. I am replacing the engine in the 65 dump with another engine I aquired and was out of a water truck. It is a EN401 and has no factory governor, or oil cooler. Question is, how important is it to put the governor and oil cooler back on the engine I am replacing in the dump truck?

I don't plan on working it hard and just using it now and again, it also does not get overly hot in this climate. I did some checking and it appears the oil cooler was an option on these engines for certain applications, however not sure why all the engines did not come with a govenor.

I am not overly familiar with these old gas engines, I don't want to blow it up for lack of knowledge. Any input?

Does anyone know the part number for a mack EN401 gas engine canister type oil filter?

Does not matter if its OEM or aftermarket. I can"t seem to find a part number.

Does anyone recall a company in Michigan called Mid-Way Equipment, they used B model mack tractors to haul petroleum in the lower and upper peninsula?

They bought several B613T in the 50's and 60's, I am looking for some history on the company and if anyone knows where any of the old macks got too...besides the crusher. I think they were actually based in Almira Michigan.

Just bought a 36" Able sleeper west of the Twin Cities,needs a ride to SE Iowa.

if shipping the engine I got off packer does not go according to plan, I might take you up on your offer to get it to Iowa, then I will come and get it, on my way through Minnesota, I can pickup your sleeper, sound like something you may be interested in?

i pulled out the flat panel and noticed things that looked like two post relays i am assuming that those are the breakers, the breakers that i have seen in the B models had red reset buttons visible when you open the glove box, i guess that there were several types used i just cant find the ones that i have in my manuals, still alot to learn bout these trucks

Thanks Superdog

Mike

my 65 b42 has those as well, my 57 b61 has fuses, not sure how those breakers work.

hello.....you have exactly the same turbo on your B-model truck?......sell it??.....i dont know really....i dont plan to do that, what would you offer for it in that case?, i could find a bigger and better suited turbo ofcourse than this but this one is brand new and in top condition, i really really dont know,now i am confused the combustor which is made is made after measurments and calculations made on this turbo.AND it is an enormous amount of time invested which cant be counted AND alot of money invested as well...its very emotional thing this,as i said earlier if i would sell it and start over with another bigger turbo i would have restart everything with the combustor because the parts made for this engine are suited for this particular turbo....../stephan

If its what you truley want to do and you believe you can do it, take your time and spend a little here and there, its just a project and not your life. Enjoy your projects and if you need to start over or go back to the drawing board then so be it, its all in fun. If indeed you really want to sell it for whatever reason, name your price and then we can go from there.

hello all.....first i dont own any mack truck BUT i am the owner of a brand new garrett turbocharger model TV61, it is supposed to sit on an mack endt 673 engine, i bought this turbo with the intention to build a turbojet engine and that is my big project in life but i got a bit interested in what kind of truck this turbo would have been used......any info appreciated...best regards/stephan

its the same one on my 57 b model mack.......want to sell it?

Your best path of progression with an old truck's wiring is a good "point to point" electrical diagram, and a multimeter. Many vehicles have burnt severely using "plug and chug" troubleshooting. Guessing to which wire goes where can be, and usually is costly in the end. You are working with cloth covered, plastic jacketed wiring, that is 40 plus years old and brittle. It breaks easily and disturbing it's natural "lay" can be very detrimental while tracing for problems. With an electrical print, you do not have to disturb anything, just probe point A, & B, for continuity and/or voltage and current flow.

An older service manual will have electrical diagrams, theory of operation, and normal indications listed. The website www.oldmacksrus.com is a very good place to start.

No one here can fix your trucks, only give suggestions obtained through experience to the questions you ask. The actual repair takes homework and labor on your part. Obtaining an answer from a website such as this is not always going to be accurate, as we are not actually looking at the problem(s) inquired about. I'd hate for you to go off on a tangent to accomplish someones suggestion, and it be incorrect, causing you future grief.

I gather from your previous posts, and questions, that you have little experience with trucks from the standpoint of repair/maintenance. Nothing wrong with that as we all have to start somewhere. I, along with others, will help most anyway we can with a project but I don't personally like to feel the person asking the questions is not trying on their own for accomplishment. There is no negative reference in that last comment. If someone is trying, I will do my best to help them.

Now I think I'll have a quart of beer, and a large bowl of momma's potato salad, along with a few boiled eggs, so I can entertain the guys at work tomorrow.

Rob

Thanks for the input and advice thus far on this issue and the others I sought, it is very much appreciated. You are correct that I don't know much about 50 year old obsolete trucks, however I have a very good knowledge of mechanics, diesel and gas engines of numerous other machines, trucks and cars. I currently do not have a service manual for either B model I currently own as I just started working on them, I have never serviced any of the components on one of these before this year, nor have I any idea about its design or its more complicated functions such as wiring or the mack engine. I am on this site to learn and to seek out advice from people who are more familiar with this particular model of mack, assuming that is what this forum site is about. I can only assume that most people who use this site are here to help and having said that I am trying to take advantage of years of their valuable experience working with and on old mack trucks. I do all my own work and when I put forth a question I don't want you or others to assume I know nothing about trucks or mechanics and am seeking answers for everything I endevour then hold the adviser responsible for the repair. I also have never said nor would I ever blame anyone for wrong advice or something that went aray as a result. Advice is free everything else costs.

Again, I am not familiar with the B model macks, but I am learning fast with help along the way from both hands on and from whatever information I have researched, requested or some kind person has offered.

I do appreciate all the input that anyone has added on my particular post and I try the suggestions, if I think it is worthy. I will also reply to others who post questions if I can help and I don't expect everyone to heed my advice as gospel, after all that is why this site and others like it exist, give and take. All I can ask is that if someone is willing to help me on something specific I ask and they might think it would help, than that would be great. If they don't wish to help me or anyone else for whatever reason than that is ok too. I am new on this site and am new to the old mack truck game as well. But as you say, we have to start somewhere.

Yes, it does have a cast sleeve on the turbo.

ok, went out tonight and squirted in a quart of ATF, it never even sputtered, it sucked it back like an old rummy. It really did not seem to change smoke much, more or less. I then took it for a ride down the country road, it was so smokey behind me I could not see the road!

It shifted nice and ran with plenty of power. You were right about the ATF coming out everywhere, it leaked and sprayed out of every crack in the exhaust pipes and smoke came out of every clamp and seam. I kept her revving and tried the brake drag, all it did was spin the rear wheels and the brakes would not hold it unless I really hit the brakes and then she stalled on me.

I must admit though after the good run down the road, there seemed to be less smoke at idle. But shifting every gear gave a cloud of grey smoke like nothing I have ever seen.

Any other suggestions??

I have a 65 B42 and as I was looking under the dash I see several factory wires are snipped off. Upon tracing two wires they end up at a black box or relay attached under the dash just beyond the steering column. I tested the wires and see that two are live. After putting ground to the live wires the box or relay starts buzzing with or without the key on. I have no idea what the box is, it could either be the horn relay or an air brake buzzer although there are no air lines to it. Could it be that the horn is stuck on?

The horn does not work upon pushing the button.

The other wires come from the heater motor and they lead nowhere.

I closed them off with tape as they were sparking everywhere. I could not find any fuses, but I am told there are breakers on this year and model.

Anyone know what this black relay or box is?

I have a 57 b61 with a 673 turbo, the engine has its problems and I am trying some advice about quelling some smokey exhaust. While I was looking over the engine I noticed a rubber hose coming from the back of the compressor and feeds along the side of the block behind the injector pump, the hose stops near the fuel filter canister and had a bolt in the line plugging it off, the makeshift blockage is now leaking coolant. Is this supposed to go somewhere?

I assume the compressor should have coolant going into it from somewhere. Will this harm the compressor, it looks like its been there like that quite awhile.

I also noticed the thermostat housing has been plugged off with some sort of epoxy on top, was there a fitting that went somewhere?

Does anyone have a spare thermostat housing they want to sell, so I can put the proper hoses back on.

It appears the old owner just kept plugging the lines and hoses with bolts and clamps as they sprung leaks. I am worried I will cook the engine. But.....as in my other posts I have already mentioned the engine never really gets hot and was told that is why it smokes lots. Any ideas???

Yes, it does have a cast sleeve on the turbo.

Yes I do. The engine is "loaded" up internally from not being used. If the exhaust on the hot side of the turbocharger is a casting with a sleeve in between the turbo, and elbow, there are piston rings on the adapter that are always struck. If the old fuel is pooled in this area, it will drip from, smoke from, and smell like you explain. The cabs sport "flow through ventilation" as you can tell by having smoke inside. Get the exhaust hot and it will clear up. The problem you have is called "wet stacking" and is common on an unloaded diesel engine.

You can clean it up a little bit by parking the truck outside, removing the air cleaner piping at the turbocharger, hold the idle speed at about 1800 rpm, and with a pump oiler loaded with ATF, make the engine injest the oil slowly. I don't mean pump it in as fast as you can but to where the engine just starts to slow down. Keep a steady stream up but don't kill the engine. After you have ran a quart or so through the engine, keep the idle to about 1250 rpm or so for about five minutes to burn the residual clean. This SOB will smoke like there is no tomorrow when you are doing this proceedure and if you have an exhaust leak will leave a puddle on the ground so be prepared.

If you want to get the engine hot with a simulated load, put the truck in low gear, accelerate against the governor, and apply the service brakes enough to put a load on it. Don't move out of low gear as you are generating a lot of heat in the shoes and drums. Do this for several minutes and you won't have any problems. Let the brakes cool, and do it again. Get the engine to about 200 degrees and keep it there. You will be surprised how much it will clean up.

I latched a large harrow to my 64 B-61 and dragged it around the farm field this spring for a load. I thought I was going to have to bungee strap my mouth shut from the jarring I was taking in the field, but I got the job done of working the engine.

I will give it a whirl with both the atf and the workin the engine, I have a large yard and heavy steel skid I will try and drag around awhile. Will keep you advised as to how it turned out.

Rob

I forgot to mention the truck is not road worthy at the moment and I cannot really work it, I also should mention that when it runs it has a "funny" exhaust smell that smells in the cab as well, its hard to desribe the smell, almost like a burnt almond smell. Not sure what that is or perhaps that has to with the extreme smoke. does anyone know what I mean?

I also never checked the thermostat.....could it be that the engine is not getting hot enough......also the shutters are not working.

You mentioned that you idle it alot. that may be the issue as well? If oil is getting past any seals in the exhaust or unburnt fuel is puddling up with carbon buildup it will shurely smoke. Like Rob said Give it a good pull and get the exhaust hot. that will burn off the oil and fuel trapped in the exhaust.

trent

I forgot to mention the truck is not road worthy at the moment and I cannot really work it, I also should mention that when it runs it has a "funny" exhaust smell that smells in the cab as well, its hard to desribe the smell, almost like a burnt almond smell. Not sure what that is or perhaps that has to with the extreme smoke. does anyone know what I mean?

You're correct Paul. I've used unishippers many times through the years and never been dissatisfied with the rates, or service.

I use "DeeDee" at Unishippers, (800) 699-1577, ext. 106, or Tammy, (can't remember her extension) but just ask who answers for her. They both know me as "Rob at Auto Affair in Farmington". I think they are commisioned sales persons and their personal service is at the "upper end of the scale" and good enough that I ask people to use them if at all possible. I also try, (as you have) to use the independent trucker first.

As an example: Last evening, my winch pictured earlier was shipped from northern California, weighing in at 1356 pounds, shipped to my door for $498.00. This is at least 2500 miles travel distance so I couldn't justify driving to get it.

If you would like me to handle it for you, send me your contact information in a pm. I know Packer can load that engine and a full dressed 401 Mack is about 850 pounds. If you figure 900 pounds, you'll be covered.

Be sure and tell the girls I said "hello".

Rob

packer got a quote of over 1000 bucks from two shippers, way to much, got to get back to the drawing board, will try your suggestions, any one else have an idea you can email at dbmeverts@tbaytel.net or reply here.

Put 20,000 pounds on a trailer and get some heat in the exhaust. Sounds a lot like my R model that hasn't been worked in a long time. The dripping you mention, is it black, and runny like water, or thick like oil sludge? Look at the inside of you exhaust pipe, is it dry, flaky carbon, or wet? Getting a load on and building up heat will help tremendously as it did for my truck!

You need to get the "old" diesel fuel burnt out of it and replaced. Diesel takes longer than gasoline to go stale, but it does all the same.

Rob

yup, the leaky drippy is black and runny looks like burnt oil and it sprays when its revved up. I drained all the old diesel and put in fresh fuel and a filter, also put in a can of seafoam and diesel additive, runs better than it did, but the smoke is real bad especially when revved, it can sit there and idle all day and the engine never gets hot, I can put my hand on the rad and the valve cover after a few hours of idling so I know its not working hard. I see someone else mentions about having a bad turbo, this could be the reason for the smoke, it does need a good run though, the problem is that it won't pass a emissions test now with all the smoke. I would like to fix it, before I smoke out the neighbourhood.